General touch of the rust

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General touch of the rust

From that description knowing panda 2012 onwards I would suspect its had an impact at some point.

Is the front of that area body coloured.

Tkm
 
Hmm :confused: Some of that looks like more than just surface rust and it would need some contact with water to get that bad.


I would have a poke around with a small screwdriver, remove any loose rust and look for corrosion penetration of the metal. Also remove the drivers side wheel and plastic splash guard and look for any rust there.
Then get it treated with rust curing products.

It's a bit of a mystery. No sign of corrosion there on my six year old Panda.
 
It looks mire like the bracket mounted/welded on top rather than the chassis leg. Would still need some attention.

1.2 non aircon petrol. ?
 
I've commented before about the value of regularly hosing out under the car, especially in the winter. The slight rusting you are seeing starts because mud collects in a 'well' under the wheelarch, behind the suspension spring as you look across from the wheel towards the engine. This holds dampness (and salt) against the bodywork in that area, which the metal part in your photos photo is the inner side of.. Regularly washing this out (just with a regular hose nozzle, not a pressure washer) clears this away. While there, also wash mud out from the spring 'cup' at the base of the spring.
 
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I've commented before about the value of regularly hosing out under the car, especially in the winter. The slight rusting you are seeing starts because mud collects in a 'well' under the wheelarch, behind the suspension spring as you look across from the wheel towards the engine. This holds dampness (and salt) against the bodywork in that area, which the metal part in your photos photo is the inner side of.. Regularly washing this out (just with a regular hose nozzle, not a pressure washer) clears this away. While there, also wash mud out from the spring 'cup' at the base of the spring.

Easy to remove the liner?
 
Leroypanda Here’s a couple of photos looking into the wheel arch, directly across towards the engine. In the first one, I’m pointing at the area where mud collects. In the second, you can judge the depth of that ‘shelf’ in the metalwork by the way my little finger is hidden. The third photo shows a similar under-bonnet view to one of your pictures (but with added pipework in the way). You might just make out a little gap? That gap goes through to the wheel arch and there’s some mud there as I was driving across a field yesterday. It’s about to be hosed out today. (The last photo is sideways - but turns round if you click to view full size)
 

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Leroypanda Here’s a couple of photos looking into the wheel arch, directly across towards the engine. In the first one, I’m pointing at the area where mud collects. In the second, you can judge the depth of that ‘shelf’ in the metalwork by the way my little finger is hidden. The third photo shows a similar under-bonnet view to one of your pictures (but with added pipework in the way). You might just make out a little gap? That gap goes through to the wheel arch and there’s some mud there as I was driving across a field yesterday. It’s about to be hosed out today. (The last photo is sideways - but turns round if you click to view full size)

Yep its going rusty there to! (2nd pic where your hand is)
 
At the beginning of March I purchased Bilt Hamber underbody rustproofing kit as I intend to keep the panda for a long time, which included a degreaser to clean the areas, 2x 750ml Dynax S50 with lances which I used in the box sections on the floor, inside the sills & up inside the wheel arches, 1x 750ml Dynax UB which I used for the main floor pans & sill sections & 1x 750ml Dynax UC which is clear so it was used on the exhaust tunnel as it is unpainted so I wanted to make it look neat & original & there is enough to do the boot floor when I get round to it hopefully this week. The kit was originally £67.95, but with a ebay coupon I got it for £58 delivered which I think was worth every penny as people have had it last typically 2-3 years per application sometimes longer, but I will check it every year just to be on the safe side. There is a video on youtube where a bloke with a defender applied Bilt Hamber Dynax to his floors, axles & chassis & didn't peel off even after a year of offroading & was still ok after the second year. If it is strong enough to not peel of a Land Rover it is good enough for a everyday driven Panda & if you take your time to do it you can get a really good result which looks just the same as factory :slayer:
 
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