Technical Ticking stilo

Currently reading:
Technical Ticking stilo

NebulaStilo

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
220
Hi guys

So I've done a service on my 1.6 stilo 2006
Replaced plugs and oil change. New oil filter.

I've noticed a ticking noise from the plugs area after doing the plug change.

I don't know if it was there before because if I close the bonnet I don't hear it. All plugs are firing and car doesn't misfire.

Oil level is on his mark.

Could it be that I haven't noticed it before because I only had bonnet open really to top up oil. Hardly while the engine is on. When you Rev it like something is loose. It doesn't really get worse when revving.

I'll post pics of the old plugs which were changed a while back before covid(car was standing couple of months in this covid time bear in mind.

Pics are left to right as it came out. So far left is 1st plug and so on.

No oil light or CEL

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220529_160954.jpg
    IMG_20220529_160954.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 32

jonti

We're getting there
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
621
Location
formerly Scotland
Could it be a sticky valve / lifter. These make a ticking noise. Could be that the oil change has dislodged some carbon, or it was there all along, if has been standing. In which case it will go away, but if it doesn't further then make investigation.
 
OP
OP
N

NebulaStilo

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
220
Could it be a sticky valve / lifter. These make a ticking noise. Could be that the oil change has dislodged some carbon, or it was there all along, if has been standing. In which case it will go away, but if it doesn't further then make investigation.
Thank you for your reply,

I think I do have a valve seal problem.

She burns oil, not constantly. So if I coast in gear, then apply throttle again, she will let off some blue smoke then gone. If I don't coast etc then no blue smoke. So I try not to.


Compression test done and all cylinders were the same and above spec. i.e no low compression.
 

Ralf S.

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2003
Messages
4,073
Location
The land that time forgot
I'm not sure whether the 1.6 has hydraulic tappets or conventional shims.. I suspect hydraulic, even though it's an older design.

The tappets are like buckets, which are supposed to fill with oil under pressure and that pushes out a spring-loaded ("floating") lid.. so the effective length of the tappet remains constant. If the tappet/cam wear, then the lid moves outwards, until it touches the cam which presses it back again.

The problem is that the"lid" can jam in the bucket part. They tend to free up eventually since the cam is pressing down on them and they're spring loaded from behind... but it may take a while.

More likely is that the oil fill hole is clogged and so oil can't enter the tappet, so it's shorter than it wants to be. If you just changed the oil, the new oil may dissolve any gum around there and allow oil to enter again... but as above, it may take time.

You can get valve lifter treatments but these are kerosene based solvents that you probably don't want to add to new oil. If it's still ticking the next time you do an oil change, add some then, just ahead of the change. If you can't hear the ticking with the bonnet closed, then it's probably "normal".


Ralf S.
 
OP
OP
N

NebulaStilo

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
220
I'm not sure whether the 1.6 has hydraulic tappets or conventional shims.. I suspect hydraulic, even though it's an older design.

The tappets are like buckets, which are supposed to fill with oil under pressure and that pushes out a spring-loaded ("floating") lid.. so the effective length of the tappet remains constant. If the tappet/cam wear, then the lid moves outwards, until it touches the cam which presses it back again.

The problem is that the"lid" can jam in the bucket part. They tend to free up eventually since the cam is pressing down on them and they're spring loaded from behind... but it may take a while.

More likely is that the oil fill hole is clogged and so oil can't enter the tappet, so it's shorter than it wants to be. If you just changed the oil, the new oil may dissolve any gum around there and allow oil to enter again... but as above, it may take time.

You can get valve lifter treatments but these are kerosene based solvents that you probably don't want to add to new oil. If it's still ticking the next time you do an oil change, add some then, just ahead of the change. If you can't hear the ticking with the bonnet closed, then it's probably "normal".


Ralf S.
Thanks Ralf

That makes sense and keep an ear on her sound.

Off the topic, how do I get my car to lock and unlock with the fob again. Seems like he forgot it. For awhile he has been locking with the key. So want to sort that out. Battery is still good on the fob. If you perhaps know how then please let me know.

Thank you
 

Ralf S.

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2003
Messages
4,073
Location
The land that time forgot
The Central locking antenna is probably not picking up the signal from the key, or if it is, it may not be able to communicate with the c/locking.

I *think* the receiver is located by the left hand side C-pillar (under the carpet in the boot/around the rear light cluster... but I'm not sure.

Anyhow, once you located it, you'll need to test that it's connected to the car, and that it can pass a signal back to the c/locking "module".

The c/locking module used to be more or less just a big relay.. but the Stilo has CANBUS, so I suspect it goes to the Body Control Module (big plastic box under the main fusebox and a complete PITA to fix, if there's a short in there).

I can't remember seeing c/locking in the Fiat ECUScan doodah.. but I only have the free version and never went looking for c/locking. If you have the ECUScan and can finds c/locking, that might give you some additional info' about what's wrong.

Hopefully it's just a damaged connection or circuit, external to the box.


Ralf S.
 
Top