Technical Stilo won't start

[CarlosVelosa]

My Stilo 1.6 don't want to start, Change the battery, see all connectors and all Earth's Inside and outside of the motor, clean every conector and nothing. When I connect to multiecuscan the unique error that shows is P0335 - crankshaft sensor, I already change the sensor for 3 new ones with the same reference of magnetti marelli and nothing. Fuel pump is working good and petrol is coming inside of motor, when I test spark plugs I don't have spark there... But I test the connection by the spark plugs and ecu and everything is good. Already replace the Ecu and nothing, even the fuse box is change by a new one and continues don't want to start... Someone can help? Some ideia? The unique thing I see is the motor not on correct point. The error of this sensor is simply not making any sense...

 

[bugsymike]

My Stilo 1.6 don't want to start, Change the battery, see all connectors and all Earth's Inside and outside of the motor, clean every conector and nothing. When I connect to multiecuscan the unique error that shows is P0335 - crankshaft sensor, I already change the sensor for 3 new ones with the same reference of magnetti marelli and nothing. Fuel pump is working good and petrol is coming inside of motor, when I test spark plugs I don't have spark there... But I test the connection by the spark plugs and ecu and everything is good. Already replace the Ecu and nothing, even the fuse box is change by a new one and continues don't want to start... Someone can help? Some ideia? The unique thing I see is the motor not on correct point. The error of this sensor is simply not making any sense...

First things first.
If the only error code coming up is referring to the crankshaft position sensor, does the rev counter work when cranking the engine, it should show some movement/reaction, if dead then you are not getting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor so fix that first.
It could be a broken wire inside the loom or the plug it's self to the sensor.
Fitting a different ECU will make matters worse as it will not match the chip in the ignition key or the Body Computer Module either.
Are you getting an immobiliser light come on and then go off when you first put key in the ignition?

 

[CarlosVelosa]

The immobilizer light is not showing because the Ecu is programmed by a professional, basically he cloned the old Ecu on the new Ecu, so on that aspect I believe is not the problem and multiecuscan is not showing anything about key or immobilizer, so on that aspect I think is very clear. The cables on the crankshaft sensor are all good because I test with a multimeter and is showing continuity from the connector to the Ecu and for what I see on multimeter no resistance. When I check the engine the rev counter doesn't move, so the only thing I see is the crankshaft sensor bracket which is not in the correct position. We get on scrapyard and buy another bracket and to put in the correct position I use a plastic piece with about 0.7mm that I measured with the caliper to make sure it worked. Could it be that the gap is too big? There is no great information on how to leave this support on the site and I don't know if this is even the case. This support broke because my father, when we were repairing this car(changing oil, change filters and coolant), hit it with a screwdriver and it ended up breaking. At that time we decided to glue this piece with epoxy and it ran like that for practically 6 months. Until the glue gave out and fell off again, from then on the car never started again.

 

[bugsymike]

The immobilizer light is not showing because the Ecu is programmed by a professional, basically he cloned the old Ecu on the new Ecu, so on that aspect I believe is not the problem and multiecuscan is not showing anything about key or immobilizer, so on that aspect I think is very clear. The cables on the crankshaft sensor are all good because I test with a multimeter and is showing continuity from the connector to the Ecu and for what I see on multimeter no resistance. When I check the engine the rev counter doesn't move, so the only thing I see is the crankshaft sensor bracket which is not in the correct position. We get on scrapyard and buy another bracket and to put in the correct position I use a plastic piece with about 0.7mm that I measured with the caliper to make sure it worked. Could it be that the gap is too big? There is no great information on how to leave this support on the site and I don't know if this is even the case. This support broke because my father, when we were repairing this car(changing oil, change filters and coolant), hit it with a screwdriver and it ended up breaking. At that time we decided to glue this piece with epoxy and it ran like that for practically 6 months. Until the glue gave out and fell off again, from then on the car never started again.

If rev counter is not moving/reacting, then it isn't getting a signal from the Crank sensor and if the only error code is that, then common sense suggests fixing that problem first.
As long as the sensor isn't touching the pulley then close is best.

 

[CarlosVelosa]

If rev counter is not moving/reacting, then it isn't getting a signal from the Crank sensor and if the only error code is that, then common sense suggests fixing that problem first.
As long as the sensor isn't touching the pulley then close is best.

I try everything and still nothing. Put the sensor more far and more close and no reaction from the rev counter... I don't have any ideia what to do more...

 

[TheBlackRazor]

The car can start (albeit hard start) without the crankshaft sensor present. It will idle horribly and sound like a tractor, but it will start. The fact that it's not starting at all, should tell you to look elsewhere for the problem. Either the ECU pins (either in the ECU or the loom) are bust, maybe the CAMSHAFT (and not crankshaft) sensor is dead. Maybe the fusebox has a problem and you're not getting spark at all and the ECU mistakenly thinks it doesn't see the crankshaft signal.
You can test if you have crankshaft signal with a multimeter. ALSO please tell me that the 3 crankshaft sensors are a different brand (and even better if they are NOT Marelli/Bosch) because it could just be a bad batch and all 3 new ones are DOA.

Edit: I now read that the problem came back after the fixing for the sensor fell off. Well, it needs to be close BUT also at the correct position, not more left or right. The first thing I'd do would be to try with the LAST KNOWN OLD crankshaft sensor, not the new ones.