General The project has begun!!!

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General The project has begun!!!

Well we are in teh grip of a recession and it is not much more than a week before xmas, so might be a difficult time to get people to part with their money.

Do you know TDQ, I honestly hadn't considered that!!:bang::bang::bang:

Well, I just hope it all goes, as i dont want it sat around for too long collecting dust.

Hey, maybe someone could buy it for their friend for Xmas:):eek:
 
Pictures and gallery listing might help too, no matter what people's feedback is on eGay I'm always sceptical of listings without photo's.

Also, have you been in touch with any local scrappies to see if they'll take the interior off your hands?
 
Nice, found your project thread :D

I have also considered solid lifters, as the gains on the 16v head are much greater imho that the 8v head. Even on the out of the factory it gained a lot over the 8v head.

I wonder what the 1.4 turbo SS engines run in regards to lifters? They are making about 180bhp aren't they?

If you are interested in researching this, I have a 16v head, and extension with cams fitted that you are more than welcome to borrow for research, measurements, development etc.

The parts are from a starjet, so the cam profile may be slightly different, (plus there is a difference in the intake path and on the exhaust cam)

Let me know if your interested :)

//edit, think panda seats could fit a sei? ;)

Kristian

//EDIT2 -- You can leave the head off the engine, and torque down the cylinder head extension to it. This will engage the cams with the hydralic lifters, and therefore the valves. If you were to replace the hydralic with solid lifters, and rotate to cam to measure the valve movement with a dial gauge, you could find the exact point they don't fully close, then reduce the lifter height a small amount to set the exact shim height? Sound's like a lot of work, but is this a feasible way of doing it?
 
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//EDIT2 -- You can leave the head off the engine, and torque down the cylinder head extension to it. This will engage the cams with the hydralic lifters, and therefore the valves. If you were to replace the hydralic with solid lifters, and rotate to cam to measure the valve movement with a dial gauge, you could find the exact point they don't fully close, then reduce the lifter height a small amount to set the exact shim height? Sound's like a lot of work, but is this a feasible way of doing it?


Hi Kristian,

You are correct in your thinking. I have thought of about four different ways of doing this. I'm sure they would all work.

Thanks for your offer of a spare cambox. I may well take you up on it soon enough, but i'd really like to buy it, as I would want to render it useless in my experiment.

The first question you can answer me is this:- What Diameter are the Hydraulic lifters?

I would think the 1.4 Turbo 500 uses hyd lifters also. They dont directly restrict power. You just can't run stupid profiles or silly revs.
 
I don't have them in my garage at home, but should be able to measure one up in a day or two for you :)

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...ms=72%3A1301|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

I posted that in the sei section. Could be a good engine for some exploratory work, or drop me a PM about my head and extension ;) I was going to get the head explorered for cylinder changer CR reduction or my current one, but I don't see me doing the next stage of my plan for a long time as I'm out of money for now.

Cheers,

Kristian
 
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Lifter Width: 28.384
Lifter Height: 25.820
Lifter face to valve contact point inside the lifter: 18.810

DSC00482.JPG DSC00483.JPG DSC00484.JPG
 
Well, I have actually begun the breakdown of my Panda 100hp tonight. I couldn't resist!!! Removed the boot carpet and tailgate trim. I also popped off the rams to see just how weighty the tailgate is? It weighs a Ton!!!

Also sussed out that the boot can be opened with a key if there's no power to the lock, so I shant need any wiring in the tailgate at all:)

I also notice that the rear seats are stretched around steel pans for their support. They must also weigh a ton?? I guess we may find out tomorrow?

After feeling the weight of the tailgate, I must say I'm tempted to make a fibreglass one with perspex screen??

The interior is looking very much like it's gonna sell on Ebay, so the whole inside will be gutted by Sunday at the latest. I'll let you know how heavy all that stuff is.

P.S. Yes I am obsessed with weight:slayer::slayer:
 
Dont know what the panda's are like, but if they have sound proofing like the cinqs. have fun removing it:
DSC_0252.jpg


IMG_0195.jpg



And yes, do make a fibreglass boot
 
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Dont know what the panda's are like, but if they have sound proofing like the cinqs. have fun removing it:
DSC_0252.jpg


IMG_0195.jpg



And yes, do make a fibreglass boot


Yeah Brooky, I've done that a few times myself!! I'm a master at it now.

I use a hot air gun, and get it just hot enough so it peels off, then the slight residue left behind is easily removed with brake cleaner.

I'm hoping this ones gonna be a sinch, as it was built in October this year, and no-one has sat in it other than me, so the sound deadening may peel off real easy?? Knowing my luck...NO IT WON'T!!!

I intend to weigh EVERYTHING as it comes out. That sound deadening is normally good for about 7kg reduction from memory?
 
yeah i used a hot air gun, then petrol on the remainder. The fumes arnt good....even more so if you have a hang over.

Ive also started stripping the looms back as far as i can, i.e spreaker wires,heaters,tailgate crap etc
 
I also popped off the rams to see just how weighty the tailgate is? It weighs a Ton!!!
Perhaps not a ton ;) but you should be able to find the weight from eper.
If you're going to take it off anyway, then you can just weigh it of course :p
 
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