Technical The one and only Dualogic failure thread

[Aleexc]

Hi everyone,
I have encountered the most illogical problem when changing the clutch ev0.
It was all good after change for the first km or so when testing
What’s happening

1.The clutch slips for a second or two after each gear change

2.It stalled once not all the time when coming to a stop,like would a manual if you stop in gear without pressing the clutch

3.After reading and deleting errors a couple of times now it gets stuck showing reading errors
This is the most mind blowing issue because it happened after I changed the valve and after I deleted errors a couple of times,and I can still do everything else read parameters,activate actuators do procedures like clutch drain and so
The only thing I can’t do it’s clutch calibration or the clutch index
I have the 5.4 multiecu registered

4.now because I cand read errors anymore the car only goes 1 or R when starting no beeping no nothing as soon as you try to go on the road an go faster than 5km/h gearbox failure and beeping,if I stop turn of and start again same problem gearbox failure and no gear change at all if I take the negative of the battery and start again it starts as I said no beeping but won’t go only 1 and R

Can something fry in the ecu ? And still be able to connect to it? But not read errors?


Btw the first couple of times I could see the errors and delete them it was
Clutch rpm sensor
Vehicle speed sensor
Engine speed sensor
I don’t remember the codes
And there were a couple others I can’t remember I didn’t though to take a picture since I thought I could always check them again if they come up.

Now it’s not even about the errors anymore but more about why it gets stuck in reading errors This is?

God I hope you people can understand what I’m blubbering about here…maybe this happened before?
I have seen cars that wouldn’t let you connect at all but to be able to do everything but see the errors it’s beyond my understanding

 

[A3jeroen]

I think (and I mean THINK) recalibration is always required on a duologic with a new clutch. Purchase MES or find someone near you with it.

gr J

 

[smithgaryuk]

• #21

I have been having issues with my cars dualogic. I didn’t want to pay dealer prices appox$6000 Australian to replace the dualogic in a 2013 car.

My car would not engage gears, message said check hand book.

Though when it was drivable, it would shudder, and drop into neutral. It was really unsafe on main roads. Eventually it just stopped wouldn’t engage gears.

I though that truly the dualogic can’t be this complex to repair.

So I bit the bullet went to a local wreckers and bought a secondhand unit. I benchtested it and there was fluid leaking out of the solenoids, and as well into the front shaft position sensor.

I though there’s no harm in dismantling it. After disassembly I identified that numerous I rings had shrunk on the solenoids and on other places where the seals should seal.

I did notice that at the front of the dualogic unit there is two hoses which connect to the selespeed reservoir bottle, one of these is a weep hose that comes from the bottom half of the dualogic unit.

This was obvious as there was a lot of dried up oil residue on the outside of the unit.

Please note I have great mechanical skills though not so much with hydraulics

I did take out the horizontal position pistons, and the seals. were heavily deteriorated.

I figured that these were leaking along with other o rings, hence that the hydraulic fluid pressure is bypassing o rings and not going to the correct piston. Meaning that the pressure flow of the fluid is influencing another solenoid that should be closed rd or open depending on gear.

This I figured was causing juddering due to incorrect positions because the hydraulic pressure is back flowing ti where it should not be going to, causing gear change issues, dropping out of gear, due to the appropriate internal channel way to be starved of hydraulic pressure or over pressure due to back flow.

This causes the sensors to fault, and trip and throw codes.

I totally dismantled the dualogic and took all the o rings out of the unit, including taking out the clutch piston and sleeve.

I then went to my local industrial o ring shop and had matched up all new o rings and piston seals. The two horizontal shaft position piston seals are an uncommon size and I had to get these custom made.

All up for about $100. Aud I got all the o rings.

I then fitted all the rings to their correct positions, and re-assembled the unit.

Lubing the rings up with Penrite ldas fluid.

I reassembled the unit, and then bench tested it, I tested the pump, it rand for about ten seconds and stopped, the unit retained pressure.

I then tested the solenoids and they all clicked.

I observed the unit for a couple of days looking for oil seepage there was none.

As I didn’t have the fiat software to recalibrate the installation of the dualogic to the gearbox I took it to a local Alfa Fiat workshop as I doubt a genuine service centre would be willing to fit a customer reconditioned dualogic.

The mechanics were awesome, and reinstalled my rebuilt unit, re calibrated it and did a few other jobs on the car, total was about $1900 for the whole job including the secondhand old dualogic and the o rings.

Now the car drives I would say better than new, the gear changes are as smooth as silk, it doesn’t just bang into gear as it did previously.

I tested the pressure and after sitting overnight once the drivers door is opened the pump only runs for about ten seconds to prime up.

I really think that a large majority of issues in the dualogic is due to old and dry o rings not holding pressure.

If anyone in Melbourne or Australia needs one rebuilt let me know. I have a spare I can change over.

Hi there,out of interest how do you check pump pressure and pressure retention?

 

[jackwhoo]

Hi there,out of interest how do you check pump pressure and pressure retention?

By reading the post it appears that pump should only run for about 10 seconds first time drivers door opened 12 or 14 hours after car was last driven .

 

[ahmett]

I think (and I mean THINK) recalibration is always required on a duologic with a new clutch. Purchase MES or find someone near you with it.

gr J

it is have gone through 3-4 clutches over 250,000 km haha

 

[smithgaryuk]

By reading the post it appears that pump should only run for about 10 seconds first time drivers door opened 12 or 14 hours after car was last driven .

Hi,i saw that thanks,i was expecting something along the lines of hooking up a pressure gauge and monitoting thr pressure.
thanks for clarifying

 

[jackwhoo]

Hi,i saw that thanks,i was expecting something along the lines of hooking up a pressure gauge and monitoting thr pressure.
thanks for clarifying

If you want to deeper and more technical get multiecuscan and an adapter