Technical Thanks and Timing belt question

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Technical Thanks and Timing belt question

Sorry don't understand

If you put crankshaft in correct locked position but then find the camshaft are not in correct position........
Turn the crankshaft one turn to the correct locked position and you will find cams are now in correct position.


Reason is the cam sprockets are exactly twice the size of crank sprocket...so the crank sprocket has to go around twice to make the cam sprockets go round once.
 
I see. Although if the crank and cam locks are all correctly in position you know you are correct
 
If you don't have a torque wrench get one you will need it for this job. I reccomend the 3/8drive one from halfords own brand it will go to low enough settings for this job.
 
I've got a 1/2 which goes down to 28nm. Will it be too cumbersome
Yes

particularly for the water pump bolts.
Far cheaper and less distressing to get the torque wrench suggested than strip threads in engine block.
A 3/8 to 1/2 inch step up adapter will enable you to use 1/2drive sockets provided enough room.

@Pugglt Auld Jock

Wrote a really good thread about torque wrenches, if you have time try and find it using search function on forum and have a read
 
Yes

particularly for the water pump bolts.
Far cheaper and less distressing to get the torque wrench suggested than strip threads in engine block.
A 3/8 to 1/2 inch step up adapter will enable you to use 1/2drive sockets provided enough room.

@Pugglt Auld Jock

Wrote a really good thread about torque wrenches, if you have time try and find it using search function on forum and have a read
Just to save people the trouble, who, like me maybe aren't very good with "techy stuff", Here's the links:
and
Hope it's of use to someone.
 

Is this the one?

Wow inflation is killing us.
If you are going to do more vehicle repairs etc it maybe worth it.
If you know anyone with a halfords trade card speak to them nicely for 20% off.

Alternatively cheaper


1/4 inch drive

I have no idea about it's accuracy.
Do read Jocks guide
 

Is this the one?
I think that's probably the current version. Mine was very similar but labeled "Halfords Professional 8-60nm" If you look in the second (continued) post there's quite a good picture of it under the Norbar labeled one. The scale is in the thick bit half way down the handle not where it's shown on the current tool. Mine was manufactured in 2009 and I must have bought it soon after that?
 
I've got a 1/2 which goes down to 28nm. Will it be too cumbersome
When I changed the cambelt on my 2.8jtd, I had to buy two additional torque wrenches. A large 1/2" for the crankshaft pulley bolt, and a smaller 3/8" to fit in the tight space near the belt.

Additional sockets were also required. The larger wrench (Britool) was a VGC (my assessment) used item from Ebay £53 in 2017, and the 3/8" Silverline was about £17 in 2019. The Silverline 962219 is still available on Ebay for under £30.

It may be that the Silverline is less accurate than more expensive brands with a claimed accuracy of +/- 4%, but how accurate do you need to be? I always restore my torque wrenches to, or below minimum setting after use. Also torque wrenches used in DIY are unlikely to be used frequently.
 
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Alternatively cheaper


1/4 inch drive

I have no idea about it's accuracy.
Do read Jocks guide
Aye Jack, quite a bit more than it was when I bought mine.

Good tip about finding someone with a Halfords Trade card. If you have a provable link to the motor trade - My IMI card did it for me, but a wage slip or even a written note of authenticity from a garage (on garage headed paper) would work I'm sure - and they'll issue you with one. Discount is best on Halfords branded stuff directly associated with vehicle repair. So, for instance, I tried to get discount on a dash cam but it was pathetically small. Stuff like spanners etc though, well worth it and I got a Yuasa Battery for Becky for just under what a discounted one, with shipping, would have been on the web. A real bargain!

As regards the cheaper torque wrenches. You see a lot of that design for sale all over the place. In accessory shops, on the web and lots of others. Sold under different brand names but they all look very similar to me? I have no idea if they are any good or, perhaps more importantly, whether they hold calibration for any length of time - and if they don't then how will you know because you're probably not going to spend money getting it checked? How many home mechanics do you know who get their torque wrench regularly checked and recalibrated? So my advice would be to buy a decent "known brand" - which won't be "cheap" but should be able to be relied upon to correctly tighten fixings.
 
I've got a problem. I was removing the glow plugs and unfortunately the last one I went to remove has got stuck. It seems to just be spining around. I suspect it has pulled the thread. I was only using a 1/4" drive and didn't think I was using that much force. Any advice greatly received.
 
I've got a problem. I was removing the glow plugs and unfortunately the last one I went to remove has got stuck. It seems to just be spining around. I suspect it has pulled the thread. I was only using a 1/4" drive and didn't think I was using that much force. Any advice greatly received.
Is it literally just spinning in place or has it wound out a bit before spinning. I'm not as familiar with the diesels as I am with the wee petrols, but I've done a fair few injectors on VAG stuff and what you're describing sounds a bit unusual. It's much more common to snap the top off leaving the heater tip buried in the head, or for the threads to be corroded and preventing removal. - which doesn't seem to be what you're experiencing. I'm wondering, if it's partly wound out, could it be that it's not coming all the way out because the tip is distorted and preventing it coming out of the hole - It's not unusual for the tips to deform/swell up with age which then makes removal very difficult
 
Hopefully the short video will show the problem. I can't seem to either tighten or loosen it. I've tried pulling it out with pliers but no joy.

It unwound no problem and I thought it would just need a slight pull to take out. I only used a 1/4 drive and didn't need to use excessive force. It's pretty much out but will now neither loosen or tighten.
 

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Hmm? Does it blow compression out if you crank the engine? I think it's "wiggling" far to much for simply the threads to be stripped? Also, in my experience, stripped threads are far less likely than seized threads. I think you're just going to have to get brutal with it, and see what you're left with? If the centre comes away leaving only the outer thread in place maybe it would come out with an eezi out? but maybe not. There are specialist mobile companies who make a living sorting out stuff like seized in injectors and heater plugs - Bet they're not cheap though, Here's one for example, but I've not used them and can't therefore make any recommendation: https://www.injector-removal-service.co.uk/seized-glowplug-removal/ I've heard of £1000 to get a seized injector out but I'm sure that would be at the top end? So, I'm sorry but I don't have a magic wand to lend you. Seized in heater plugs is not an unusual problem and, in our garage, would often mean a head off job. - Ouch!
 
I've not tried compression. I think what's happened is that the glow plug hex has separated from the glow plug and a bit of the glow plug thread is still holding the glow plug in. Thank you for your help
 
Hi,

If it not blowing compression .....leave it alone unless you want to risk a very big bill or a lot of aggrivation.

Do not reconnect electrical connection , do insulate the wire.

3 working glow plugs should be more than enough 😀
 
Hi,

If it not blowing compression .....leave it alone unless you want to risk a very big bill or a lot of aggrivation.

Do not reconnect electrical connection , do insulate the wire.

3 working glow plugs should be more than enough 😀
Yup, I like that "solution" She'll start fine on 3 glow plugs, even on a cold winter's day. Might smoke a wee bit until that cylinder "chimes in" properly so be prepared for that. Only an option if no compression is blowing out past that plug though.
 
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