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Technical Temperature needle moves up and down with the engine started but not moving.
- Thread starter MKUser
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Technical Temperature needle moves up and down with the engine started but not moving.
Thanks a lot for this....
Well , I 've changed both sensors and done the bleeding and the thing remains the same.
After a while circulating , I get the needle dancing and going to the hot position.
I've noticed the engine isn't so hot, even the coolant too.
The hoses are not hard, with too much pressure.
The cooling fans don't start.
I can't understand what's happening...
I hope it's not a cylinder head gaskte problem.
How may I Know it?
After a while circulating , I get the needle dancing and going to the hot position.
I've noticed the engine isn't so hot, even the coolant too.
The hoses are not hard, with too much pressure.
The cooling fans don't start.
I can't understand what's happening...
I hope it's not a cylinder head gaskte problem.
How may I Know it?
Mike1alike
Established member
How did you do the bleeding? You sure you got all air out? Did you find the breathers?
Yes, there's a plastic one .
I follow the instructions of the Elearn x244 manual.
I opened this secrew until coolant went out, tighten the screw and fill to max.
I started the engind and let it idle for some minutes.
After , I accelerate slowly to 3000rpm in periods of 30 seconds until the temp needle went to the middle ( 90°C).
After that, I drived for a while reaching 3000 rpm.
After 15 mns, the needle raised up a little.
I stopped letting the engine started but iddle.
The needle began to dance and raised up to H, just like befores changing the sensors and the bleeding.
As I said, the temperature red light didn't turn on, the hoses were'nt hard, the engine could be touched with the gabd, even the coolant wasn't too hot.I stopped and waited 10 mns.
Wheb I started the temperature needle was on the third quarter yet and dancing a little but I drove about 200 ms slowly and went back to the middle and could make easily about 10 kms to home.
When I arrived, I let the engine on but idle and after a while the needle began again to raise up dancing.
The only thing sure is the sensors were not the problem.
I think the bleeding was well done.
Can you explain a little how to do that exactly?
Where do I have to attach the wire at the engine and at the body?
Yes, it can be.
It 'd be good some indications on how attaching the new wire.
Where do you think are the best places for this??
Anywhere that's clean metal on engine to anywhere that is clean metal on body
diego74
Member
Get an OBD2 scanner, it is a MUST for today vehicles, I use a cheap ELM327 bluetooth and my cell phone to scan my x244, you have 2 sensors reporting one same value, now you are seeing just one and you suspect it is wrong so it would be great if you can check the other one. Keep it in mind that the sensor is sending the data via wires to your dashboard's circuits and finally to the needle's stepper motor, this means there are many variables that can cause this issue.
I have the feeling that my coolant temp gauge is very slow to respond, so I put an external thermostat which has its own probe and I monitor the coolant temp with it, check it: STC-1000, it is amazing and very cheap, with your OBD2 scanner monitoring ECU coolant temp and this thermostat you can rest assure until you fix the dashboard gauge issue.
I have the feeling that my coolant temp gauge is very slow to respond, so I put an external thermostat which has its own probe and I monitor the coolant temp with it, check it: STC-1000, it is amazing and very cheap, with your OBD2 scanner monitoring ECU coolant temp and this thermostat you can rest assure until you fix the dashboard gauge issue.
Don't you think if the wires going from negative battery pole, one to engine and the other to chassis, are well attached it is not enough??
diego74
Member
I have read these usually tend to get rust on these vehicles (saw some pics as well), so you can check in e-Learn the earth points and make sure the ones affecting the dash are clean (there is a schema showing each component is connected to which earth point), also you can put some contact cleaner in the dashboard contact or check with a multimeter that you have a good earth on its respective wires.
That reads like you are being very rude.
Corrosion of the wire and the crimp connections and the contact points can cause problems.
For sure...
I've searched for rust on earth contacts and they seem to be ok.
However thanks for your your compliment.
If I knew how to proceed with the problem, I didn't search for help.
I think I'm beeing polite.
Mike1alike
Established member
I don't think he's rude. Mind you, he's writing us from Spain, might be a language thing that made you read as rude.
@MKUser, I tell you what. The bleeding can be tricky sometimes and even if you do as the manual says, sometimes that is not enough. Do this to make sure you bleed it good. Park the car with the front wheels on higher ground, so the breather on the radiator becomes the highest point in the cooling system (except the expansion tank). Open the breather and watch if air comes out (coolant and bubbles). Take that breather cap out completely and see that only coolant comes out, no bubbles. If you need to, put some more coolant in, until no air comes out if breather. Put the cap on. Fill the tank to max and take the tank's cap out. Start the engine and warm it up, revv it to 3000 RPM like before. That should do it.
How old is the water pump? Is there any chance it is off? If the needle shows you hot temperature, test by hand the hose next to the temperature sensor. Is it the same temperature like the one next to the radiator or hotter.
After the engine is running, if you take off the expansion tank cap, can you feel that there is pressure? It could be a water pump problem or even that cap if there is no pressure. The cap has a valve to release pressure, if it's broken might be open all the time and if so, the system is underpressured.
I don't think it's a ground problem, but do all the checking you can, to make sure.
Thanks for the indications.
I din't want to be rude in any moment.
I only asked questions...
I'll try the bleeding process again.
The only thing is the water pump is totally new because I've replaced it when I replace the time belt.
Mike1alike
Established member
And how were the temperature readings?
I did it with the engine stopped, only putting the contact key on, to see error messages.
You think I have to start the engine, raise up the temperature and after connect the Ecuscan to the OBD the read temperature parameters ?
By the way, do you know if I can check the cooling fans with EcuScan?
Thanks...
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