Technical Tapping/Clicking noise?

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Technical Tapping/Clicking noise?

tenwierdufos

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Hi, long time since ive been on the forum but hi again :)

Just wondering if anyone has ever come across any issues with a tapping/clicking noise coming from the engine?

Doesnt go away with speed/revs just gets faster, sounds too loud to be injectors, so thinking valve tappets mabye?

Any help appreciated,

Cheers :)
 
1.6 16v Dynamic.

2 of the coils are old 2 have been replaced, but has got a lumpy idle, also has got a bit louder since i removed and refitted the top induction part that connects to the manifold.
 
I think the 1.6 has the variator cam system may be that
starting to play up. How old's the oil? if it's black or needs
topping up often I'd change the oil and see if it's quieter
as that will effect the cam and tappets.
For the price of oil and a filter may be worth a go.

Oil in mines black as soot only supposed to have done
5-6K variator was noisey at start up, just changed the oil
and it and the tappets are a lot quieter.
Probably change it again after 3-4K to start and clean
the engine out as I'm not sure on how it was serviced prior
to my ownership.
I'd however never use anything like flushing oil to clean it out it's
too agressive and Iv'e seen too many straight six engines
ruined with flushing oil causing cruding up of the oil ways.

John
 
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oil was changed about 3k ago, and filter at the same time, one thing im good at is keeping onto of oil :)

it does use a bit of oil though.

would you mind telling me what a variator cam system is though? :idea:
 
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only 1.8 and 2.4 have a variator..
for 1.6 (depending on mileage and assuming it is not coils or injectors) stuck valve or damaged valve springs are most likely (try adding some Wynns hydraulic valve lifter additive to your oil - if it is a stuck valve it'll sort it out for you)

if none of the above – you may have timing issues or a warn cam (other things are progressively scarier..)
 
i dont like scary things!

theyre scary...

and im a student therefore not much money lol... motor student though so at least no labour costs :) cant afford new parts till next month though lol.

i think the first thing im going to do is get the other 2 coils replaced and go from there and if that doesnt sort it try some valve lifter additive.

its on 61,000 miles at the moment btw =]

Cheers for the info!
 
I AM HAPPY! i have no clicking noise AND a smooth idle! ive not had that in about 7 months...

took out and looked at all 4 spark plugs

number 3 looked like this
IMAGE_038.jpg


Because it wasnt even screwed into the engine properly... So air was getting in / out through it...

I do feel silly for missing this for so long, but, this was a very cheap fix and it makes me very happy :)
 
It does pull better :) Dont know about the economy yet though, i did notice the ticking had started to come back though slightly so im going to check them again tonight, i have a feeling that plug keeps coming loose for some reason.

Do they have crush washers on the bottom by any chance that could cause somthing like them to come loose once they have been fitted once?
 
I havn't got access to the stilo elearn cd here but
I always use a torque wrench to fit spark plugs
didn't matter too much on a cast iron cylinder head
but on an alloy head it's easy to strip the threads
by over tightening.

Have a good look at the threads in the head to ensure
the heated gases have not damaged them fit NEW
spark plugs to be on the safe side and the guide below
is a rough guide lifted of the internet but just be careful
of damaging the head - even after 40 odd years of fitting
spark plugs I still dislike doing so.

Installation Instructions

It's easy to check, clean or replace spark plugs, by simply following these procedures.
First leave the engine to cool.
Twist and pull off the spark plug lead. To ensure you don't alter the firing order we advise you to remove one plug at a time.
Slacken the plug and clean the recess if necessary.
Screw in spark plug by hand until it is seated in the cylinder head.
New spark plugs with flat seats are then tightened by a further approximately 90 degrees using the appropriate spark plug wrench.
Spark plugs with conical seats as well as used spark plugs with flat seats are screwed in by a further 15 degrees approximately.
Re-attach the spark plug lead.
Repeat the procedure for every plug.

John
 
:eek: the dreaded super 4's ..

IMAGE_038.jpg


Get yourself a set of the correct plugs for the 1.6 [ NGK ]and it will run even better..;)
 
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