Technical Sump drain plug leaking

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Technical Sump drain plug leaking

earthman

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Anyone experienced their drain plug leaking? There's a slight weep of oil coming from mine, despite it being tight/torqued up correctly, it's an aftermarket sump but the design is the same, using a washer less drain plug basically.
Apart from using some PTFE tape on the threads, any other ideas, what did you use to seal such a leak?
 
Anyone experienced their drain plug leaking
Leaking as in coming out round the threads, or leaking as in the boss in the sump has failed?

We've seen a few that have failed because the boss has come loose, usually after overtightening, and there have also been problems reported with aftermarket plugs - some have the wrong taper and can be screwed right through and into the sump! There have been more than a few that have failed due to the sump rusting through; a common but avoidable problem.

I'd agree with the earlier post about using an OEM plug if you can get one. And don't overtighten it.
 
Use to be common on the puntos with third part plugs fitted at a service

I'd start by buying a OEM first, unless you still have your old one to try

Leaking as in coming out round the threads, or leaking as in the boss in the sump has failed?

We've seen a few that have failed because the boss has come loose, usually after overtightening, and there have also been problems reported with aftermarket plugs - some have the wrong taper and can be screwed right through and into the sump! There have been more than a few that have failed due to the sump rusting through; a common but avoidable problem.

I'd agree with the earlier post about using an OEM plug if you can get one. And don't overtighten it.

Why would a third party plug be fitted at a service for a start I'm wondering, why not refit the one they remove?
I did save the OEM plug off the old sump before that went to the tip but that's got a different thread to this aftermarket sump pan.

Hopefully it's not leaking from the boss, this sump pan is only a few month old, the OEM sump pan rusted out, this is an aftermarket one due to Fiat parts department wanting like £250 just for that part alone, the jokers.
It's been fine for months, only noticed a tiny park on the drive due to the car not moving for a week, quick inspection, pretty sure that it's coming from the thread,....I always like to torque everything up if I can so it's not been overtightened.
 
Why would a third party plug be fitted at a service for a start I'm wondering, why not refit the one they remove?
I did save the OEM plug off the old sump before that went to the tip but that's got a different thread to this aftermarket sump pan.

Hopefully it's not leaking from the boss, this sump pan is only a few month old, the OEM sump pan rusted out, this is an aftermarket one due to Fiat parts department wanting like £250 just for that part alone, the jokers.
It's been fine for months, only noticed a tiny park on the drive due to the car not moving for a week, quick inspection, pretty sure that it's coming from the thread,....I always like to torque everything up if I can so it's not been overtightened

A few will be genuine as it's not uncommon for the hex to get mullered by improper tool

Most will just be upselling in my opinion
 
Why would a third party plug be fitted at a service for a start I'm wondering, why not refit the one they remove?
I'd have refitted the one that I took out. You know that one fits.
I did save the OEM plug off the old sump before that went to the tip but that's got a different thread to this aftermarket sump pan.
In which case, it may not even have the same thread as an OEM sump. There's no guarantee an OEM one would fit an aftermarket sump, not is there any guarantee that an aftermarket plug not bought with the sump is going to fit, either.
 
this is an aftermarket one due to Fiat parts department wanting like £250 just for that part alone
Many OEM parts are crazy expensive, but generally they fit well.

Many aftermarket parts don't fit well at all, but they are at least affordable.

The problem is that if we only used OEM parts, repairing these cars once they get >10 yrs old would no longer be cost effective.

Tapered threads have to be quite accurately machined as they need to give a leakproof seal without a washer. With conventional sump plugs, a soft copper washer can make up for relatively crude manufacturing.

If you are sure it's leaking round the threads, a non-hardening sealing compound, used sparingly, is one possibility.
 
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Can you tighten it a little bit more, by hand?
Being all oiled up, the torque differs from when it's dry. And the plug is usually a conical shape, little wider on the base. You can carefully tighten those by hand just enough to not leak. Isn't yours like that?
 
I use ptfe tape. I have always done it. It seems ro work and stops it being difficult to remove. Dont over do it. two turns and at the external end leaving the engine end uncovered. Make sure you remove the whole lot after each drain though!!!
 
Surprisingly perhaps, I've never had a problem with any of the Pandas we've owned or my boy's Punto leaking at the sump plug. Replaced the sump on 3 of them too with pattern parts bought from the local factor. One, for our old Mk1 panda, was poorly dimensioned and needed lots of sealant but it's plug was fine. I have however come across several which have been overtightened to such an extent that they needed a power bar to slacken - luckily never had the boss loosen in the sump either. So I'm not really the best person to answer this. However I am surprised to hear your plug is differently threaded to original equipment? I've heard of internet bought replacement plugs which are not taper formed and screw right through without sealing but never one with a different thread altogether. That would make a nonsense if later you needed to buy another plug for it. I don't doubt you're correct in what you say, just very puzzled by it. After my experience with the replacement I bought for our old Felicity, and the problems I had getting it to seal, I now avoid going for the cheapest option. If I needed one tomorrow, I'd be very tempted to buy from Shop4parts whom I trust to supply quality parts.
 
I renewed mine after buying the car due to deformation of the hex as mentioned above. I bought mine from ECP for a couple of quid, it may of had some kind of sealant on the thread, can't say for sure as it was about four years ago but it's been in and out three times since. I think the car has its original sump pan, I don't use a Torq wrench when refitting, never have with any car I've owned.
 
I renewed mine after buying the car due to deformation of the hex as mentioned above. I bought mine from ECP for a couple of quid, it may of had some kind of sealant on the thread, can't say for sure as it was about four years ago but it's been in and out three times since. I think the car has its original sump pan, I don't use a Torq wrench when refitting, never have with any car I've owned.
I don't use a torque wrench on taper sump plugs or steel sumps generally. However I do tend to use one on Ally sumps as I've seen quite a number with damaged and/or stripped threads. The earlier VAG ones were quite bad for it but I've noticed, for a number of years, that the threaded metal boss and plug itself is now longer - so more threads to engage with - and they are not so susceptible. I do worry though whether all the oil which invariably is impossible to remove from the threads, is detrimental to achieving a correct result. I've seen a number of very late models now with custom plastic drains, some aren't even a screwed fitting. Wonder if they will tend to snap when they get old?

There is one which is like a "flip" device which isn't removed from the sump. Been trying to find a video of it but can't remember what car it's on however here's a couple in use today:



and this one in the VAG stuff:

 
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