Subframe bolt corrosion

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Subframe bolt corrosion

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Oct 1, 2017
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So here's something to think on. When you're doing an annual service, if you're anything like me, in addition to doing the "big" things like changing the engine oil and filter, maybe also the air filter and cabin filter, perhaps, also removing the brake pads for a clean up and refitting them with a wee bit of anti seize paste and checking coolant and screen wash fluid levels you'll be giving the wheels a good "tug" and spin to check for bearing and suspension/steering/brake drag/etc problems and probably other stuff too like checking coolant hoses, brake flex hoses and metal pipes, rubber boots, etc, etc. However who actually goes around checking all the subframe mounting bolts? I probably do subconsciously notice them but I don't set out to systematically make a point of looking at every one like I would a caliper, ball joint or bottom swivel nut.

So I was interested to hear, some time ago, of a problem encountered by a chap on the Cupra forum, in fact the very chap with whom I've been investigating the Battery coding "thing" I've mentioned elsewhere. He seems to be much like I am these days in that he does his own servicing and maintenance but hands off "big" jobs to his local indy. Well, it transpires that he noticed a quite large rusty bolt head lying in his drive right where he parks his Polo (same basic floor pan as my Ibiza). He had a good crawl around the Polo and found the N/S/F subframe bolt missing. Closer examination found the remains of the bolt still "hiding" up the hole in the subframe. He has a number of theories as to why the bolt corroded through and feels very lucky that it "decided" to drop off in his driveway otherwise he'd not have known it was missing. He booked the car into our local indy to have all the subframe bolts renewed and all should now be well, at least for the remaining time in his possession. The garage, I believe, said that his was not the first of these they've done however not all the bolts were seriously corroded so I think there is very little danger the subframe would have become detached under normal driving conditions, but I know I'm going to be giving special consideration to checking my Ibiza's bolts every time I'm underneath it. I think it will mean removing the partial under tray to see properly which is a nuisance as you can, just, get the oil filter off without having to do this. However it will make changing the oil filter easier with the tray off and should ensure the little tray retaining fixings stay free.

The Ibiza is due a service right now and I have the oil and other sundries so will be doing it very soon so the above has been in my mind. Yesterday we were out in Midlothian at my younger boy's house looking after the grandchildren and he'd asked his local wee garage to sort out his non functioning screen washers - needs a new pump and I'm glad I wasn't doing it as it's well buried away in the O/S/F wing - I followed him down in the Ibiza so I could run him back to work after he dropped the Astra off - I'm getting on very well with the owner and some of the lads who work there so I was chatting to the chap who was going to be doing the pump and he was asking how the "Old" Astra was going. I was able to say that all seemed well with it but I had some concerns for the clutch which, although biting well and certainly not slipping, has a rather low biting point, maybe just a couple of inches or so from the floor. He said he'd give it a quick check while he had the car in the workshop. Then I mentioned I wouldn't fancy doing a clutch on that car anyway because you have to drop the front subframe to do it and he said you can actually do it by dropping just the one side and sliding the gearbox away from the engine without actually removing it from the car. This led me on to mentioning the rusty bolt problem on the Polo and how I would be keeping a close eye on mine when I was doing it's service. He said they hadn't had that problem on an Ibiza/Polo yet but they did recently do a clutch on a Volvo, where the subframe has to come off, and some of the bolts were so badly rusted they got the owner's permission to replace the lot. He said he thinks the problem is the big retaining washer on the bolt which closes off the bottom of the subframe hole and traps the water. He said he can't understand why the washer - which is a pretty thick item - isn't either slotted or drilled to allow water to drain?

So, having originally thought this might be a problem only affecting the particular floor pan design of our Polo/Ibiza perhaps it's actually a more widespread problem? Anyway, from now on I'm going to be paying more attention than I historically have to the likes of subframe and suspension fixings!
 
I would get ALL of those bolts off the car (one-by-one of course) cleaned and fully coated end to end in anti seize paste. corrosion in the open will attack all over the surface. Corrosion in bolts tends to get concentrated in one area. Coating part of the bolts increases the risk so it has to be done over the whole length. If the other end of the hole is open (and you have access), that should get a good smear of the same stuff to keep the bolt end from corroding. The resultant mess can jam into the bolt threads and strip the female threads when you eventually get it out. Steel through open ended aluminium is especially troublesome.
 
I am sad. I check these often and give them a soak with penetrating fluid and follow this with copper sparay, hoping they will come apart if required. Never have I seen a corrosion issue on VAG bolts. Our (no longer trusty) Seat still comes apart freely when required which at nearly 21 it does rather too frequently these days. I shall make a point of checking said bolts thoiugh. Thanks for the heads up!

I had an Astra 1.8CDX a while ago. Very nice car with all the possible extras. Sadly written off. As a consequence of the accident it was possible to see half of the welds securing the suspension arms to their bush holders had long since failed, so its not just the bolts that need watching. I cant see any garage service picking up these things which rather makes their offerings redundant.
 
Replacing the clutch on my Panda 100HP needed thread inserts into the gearbox casing, because the open ended bolts had corroded into the aluminium. They came out (eventually with a breaker bar but the clogged threads in the bolt end stripped out the aluminium. That said, the bolts were other wise clean and good. Ditto the subframe bolts at both ends. When I pulled out the rear seat and seat belt mounts those all had rusted threads - the zinc plating had long since failed. They were stiff but came out undamaged. They went back with plenty of anti-seize.

I like Action Can CS-90. It's much stiffer with solids than ordinary Comma copper grease and it's not expensive. I am told it should never be used on aluminium. However, I've used it for at least 30 years with zero problems, including stainless bolts into aluminium. These are well known for seizing and shearing off because Al and SS are at opposite ends of the galvanic scale.

My pot is getting low so I might try an Al version next time but personal experience is to go with what I know.
 
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