Technical Strut assembly query

[Gman88667733]

Just caught this thread, been away from the computer for a few days.

First concern was the use of a used strut. Never a good idea as its history is unknown. Also struts should be replaced in pairs, to ensure balance, otherwise handling can be compromised.
Sourdce of a used strut will be from a scrapped car, either due to rust, not many rusty Pandas yet, serious mechanical failure, not many of thosse either except perhaps high miles diesels with broken timing chains, or crashed.
A strut that's been in a crash may be compromised.
Springs are different between 1.1/1.2 with or without aircon, diesel is a heavier spring, Twinair probably different again. Whilst damping rates will also be different with OE struts for those variations, aftermarket struts may all be the same for all models, however, one manufacturer may differ from the next, reinforcing the need to fit pairs.
To safely use a used strut, you need to be sure it is of a similar age and wer to your other one, same spec, wither OE or same manufacturer if aftermarket, and using the same strength spring.
If your car is unsafe as a result, the consequences might be horrendous.

Replacement top gaiters and bumpstops are available. A real pig to assemble, needs lots of lubricant. https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=7101

Rattle at the front end is very likely to be the drop links. They make a tremendous noise whilst feeling tight when prodded. Removal will show how worn they are. They are cheap and easy to replace. Do a pair, not singly.

I've taken that on board. Hopefully purchasing the other side strut from that exact car the current one is from, so both still be the same age (approx 1.5 years old)

The rattling stopped when I changed the first spring.

Edit - just have purchased the second strut. Will fit it as soon as it arrives
It'll have matching ones then. Should've done it in the first place really, my mistake

 

[portland_bill]

Edit - just have purchased the second strut. Will fit it as soon as it arrives
It'll have matching ones then. Should've done it in the first place really, my mistake

Is it from the same spec model, so the springs are correct?
I think the difference between aircon and not is slight, so aircon springs without aircon will be a little stiffer, and probably sit higher at the front, hopefully won't affect handling. Don't forget to adjust the headlamps.
If you have aircon, and the donor car did not, the front end might be a little soft, which might affect cornering.
If donor was diesel and yours is petrol, it is likely to sit very high at the front.

 

[Gman88667733]

Is it from the same spec model, so the springs are correct?
I think the difference between aircon and not is slight, so aircon springs without aircon will be a little stiffer, and probably sit higher at the front, hopefully won't affect handling. Don't forget to adjust the headlamps.
If you have aircon, and the donor car did not, the front end might be a little soft, which might affect cornering.
If donor was diesel and yours is petrol, it is likely to sit very high at the front.

They are from the same spec car ( 1.1 active)

 

[jackwhoo]

Yellow blue white paint marks on spring in your picture indicate spring rate(strength)

Damper should be matched to the spring rate.

So if spring you removed has same colour paint marks it is same spring rate.

 

[Gman88667733]

Yellow blue white paint marks on spring in your picture indicate spring rate(strength)

Damper should be matched to the spring rate.

So if spring you removed has same colour paint marks it is same spring rate.

I believe both old and new have a dab of yellow on them

 

[jackwhoo]

Paint dots on your photo attached to first post, right at bottom of picture on spring , three dots yellow blue and white

 

[Gman88667733]

Ah, I see.
Well in a few days I'll be fitting the exact same spring/shock absorber from the same car so they'll be a matching pair.

Paint dots on your photo attached to first post, right at bottom of picture on spring , three dots yellow blue and white

 

[The Panda Nut]

I fitted boots like those recently and they made all sorts of noises.... They need to stay at the top of the piston and may need some help to do so. In the end I gave mine some mastic to hold them in place. They were causing a noise like a broken spring.. Now all is silent.

 

[portland_bill]

The new boots and bumpstops are tight enough on the shaft.
The two parts come separately, and are a real pain to fit together. Needs a fair bit of rubber lubricant (WD40 might do), and a fair bit of cussing too.

 

[Gman88667733]

Paint dots on your photo attached to first post, right at bottom of picture on spring , three dots yellow blue and white

Just checked the old spring, it has yellow and white dots. What is the difference? Both front ones will be the same when the second one arrives

 

[jackwhoo]

Just checked the old spring, it has yellow and white dots. What is the difference? Both front ones will be the same when the second one arrives

The colour code is code for the spring rate .
The spring rate is how much the spring compresses for a given force . for example one spring may compress 10mm per 10kg load , a different spring may compress 5mm per 10kg load .

 

[portland_bill]

Just checked the old spring, it has yellow and white dots. What is the difference? Both front ones will be the same when the second one arrives

Difference is how strong the spring is. Usually expressed as kg/cm, or lb/in. How much force is required to compress the spring a measured distance.

They are different, so you need to ask the spec of the vehicle they came from. See my earlier post. Specifically petrol, 1.2 or twinair, diesel, and whether aircon or not.
Diesel adds extra weight, so needs stronger springs, as does adding aircon. Stronger springs on a car that does not need it will raise the front end, but more importantly, will not compress as much over the same bumps, transmitting more of the shock into the car. It will affect comfort, and the way the car steers and brakes. If yours is a 1.2 without aircon, and the 'new' ones are diesel with aircon, it could be quite stiff, and even unstable in a straight line. Might have to fit your old springs.

The dampers restrict the movement of the spring. If left unchecked, the spring will oscillate, which seriously reduces control of steerign and braking. The dampers allow the spring to compress and rebound at a measured rate, and are matched to the springs. Aftermarket dampers will usually be set at a compromise, to allow one part to fit all vehicles, but OE are likely matched to individual spring rates.
If you restrict compression too much, some of the shock will not be absorbed by the spring, so is transmitted to the car, makes it less comfortable, and eventually leads to lots of squeaks and creaks as the car gently disintegrates. (Takes a very long time, it will not fall apart like a clown's car) Over a series of bumps it will feel very hard.
If not restricted enough, it will compress too much, making the ride a little soft and bouncy.
If you restrict the rebound too much, the spring and suspension may not be fully recovered by the next bump. Over a series of bumps it can 'pump down', as the car gets lower to the ground. Each bump hurts more than the previous one. If rebound not restricted enough, it becomes bouncy as the front rises too far and then falls again, like the old American movies.

Having said all that, it is likely all damper settings are close, so you may not have any ill effects.

Humans can tolerate a certain amount of bouncing and wobbling, after which we get nauseous, more likely to occur if rear dampers are incorrect.

So, find out the spec of the donor, lets compare with yours.

 

[Gman88667733]

The donor car is also a 1.1 like mine and it appears to have been without Aircon, also like mine

Difference is how strong the spring is. Usually expressed as kg/cm, or lb/in. How much force is required to compress the spring a measured distance.

They are different, so you need to ask the spec of the vehicle they came from. See my earlier post. Specifically petrol, 1.2 or twinair, diesel, and whether aircon or not.
Diesel adds extra weight, so needs stronger springs, as does adding aircon. Stronger springs on a car that does not need it will raise the front end, but more importantly, will not compress as much over the same bumps, transmitting more of the shock into the car. It will affect comfort, and the way the car steers and brakes. If yours is a 1.2 without aircon, and the 'new' ones are diesel with aircon, it could be quite stiff, and even unstable in a straight line. Might have to fit your old springs.

The dampers restrict the movement of the spring. If left unchecked, the spring will oscillate, which seriously reduces control of steerign and braking. The dampers allow the spring to compress and rebound at a measured rate, and are matched to the springs. Aftermarket dampers will usually be set at a compromise, to allow one part to fit all vehicles, but OE are likely matched to individual spring rates.
If you restrict compression too much, some of the shock will not be absorbed by the spring, so is transmitted to the car, makes it less comfortable, and eventually leads to lots of squeaks and creaks as the car gently disintegrates. (Takes a very long time, it will not fall apart like a clown's car) Over a series of bumps it will feel very hard.
If not restricted enough, it will compress too much, making the ride a little soft and bouncy.
If you restrict the rebound too much, the spring and suspension may not be fully recovered by the next bump. Over a series of bumps it can 'pump down', as the car gets lower to the ground. Each bump hurts more than the previous one. If rebound not restricted enough, it becomes bouncy as the front rises too far and then falls again, like the old American movies.

Having said all that, it is likely all damper settings are close, so you may not have any ill effects.

Humans can tolerate a certain amount of bouncing and wobbling, after which we get nauseous, more likely to occur if rear dampers are incorrect.

So, find out the spec of the donor, lets compare with yours.

 

[portland_bill]

Should be good then.
Get them in, see how it looks and feels, take care on initial test drive. After raising the car it will take a hundred metres or so to settle. Will feel odd during this time. Not good if it continues to feel odd.

 

[jackwhoo]

Once happy with everything you have done get wheel alignment checked.
It is likely to need adjustment.