Technical Selespeed fluid flush & change

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Technical Selespeed fluid flush & change

Does anyone know if you can flush the old fluid out & refill with new oil or can you only top it up.
It is possible but special equipment and experience is required.

What vehicle are asking for?
Mileage?
Age?

Does it already have faults?
 
04 1.2 panda 114k miles. Keeps selecting neutral or no gear available.
Wow you have done incredibly well to get to get to that mileage without selespeed problems.

Have a look for " the one and only dualogic failure thread" it's here on forum somewhere.

It boils down to you need a specialist in dualogic/ selespeed gearboxes
Not any old auto gearbox specialist or even a fiat dealer as neither of those is likely to know what to do.
 
Re: Selespeed fluid flush & change

04 1.2 panda 114k miles. Keeps selecting neutral or no gear available.
Before you head over to the "One and only Dualogic failure" thread and get despondent, I have a couple of questions...
Does it leak?
Does the pump sound good when you open the drivers door, or does it sound like it is straining (or hesitant)?
Have you had the Dualogic codes read? (Needs more than a basic garage code reader)
Do you have any problems with your brake lights? (Specifically the drivers side)

Most broken Dualogics I have met got broken by people trying to fix them. Often when they weren't broken in the first place.
 
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The Duologic does not cope well with a worn clutch or a clutch that's not releasing. Some clutches have been shot in 20,000 miles because people used the car like an ordinary slush box automatic. Others last a long time. The OP probably knows that type of driving will hammer a Selespeed/Duologic clutch.

We don't know how old the OP's clutch is, but the problem could simply be that its worn out.
 
As Dave said above, clutch could be worn out (that would be in the next batch of questions, along with "how long have you owned the car?").
Usually get jerky changes for quite a while before it gets serious though. Hence the "how long..." question.

Trouble with clutch swap is that it is as easy (!) to do the mechanical part as an ordinary manual, but too many people seem to screw up the last bit.
Or they leave it too long so the hydraulics can't handle the force required to move the clutch fork, which pops a seal.
Or they just put it back together wrong and blame the actuator.

I was trying to get in quick before the thread gets thrown in the "one and only..." bin, which I've given up reading (too long, too much dubious info, too much emotion, too depressing, etc.)
 
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