Running on Bio-diesel?

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Running on Bio-diesel?

BIO Fuel is not good really unless your using an old bangor.....

There is no lubricant unlike diesel you may think there is being oil but think again.... Diesel companies such as shell spend millions producing fuel to look after our engines and make them work longer at the right tempertures... Bio fuel is a man in his shed guessing mainly at what the mix is.... Your choice but for me its a big no no.


Hmmm. Considering the diesel was originally running on plant extract, diesel companies aren't looking after our engines - they are protecting their own interests.
As for them working longer, I beg to differ, there are plenty of ancient oil burners around with loads on the clock - many local companies use VERY old buses to do the school runs (why give kids the comfort of modern seating?), some going back to the A plate prefix - ie 1982/83.
these buses are used every day & cover many, many miles.
We've even got a load of old london black cabs running round with just veg oil in the tank.
The diesel engine is known for its longevity & reliability with the adage that they are only expensive when they go wrong - and that used to mean once a blue moon.
If you look at the data from biofuel companies, the numbers are far better in terms of emissions than dino - sadly, the biofuel industry would be unable to support the mass market.
Perhaps in a few years' time as the world's oil reserves start to dwindle, we might see a change as oil companies suddenly introduce their adaptions to enable the high pressure rail engines to run on bio (which might simply be some slick additive to lube up the internals) - probably about the same time as they introduce a few other alternative tech engines - which will also most likely still involve a heavy reliance on the oil baron's newest 'find'
 
BIO Fuel is not good really unless your using an old bangor.....

There is no lubricant unlike diesel you may think there is being oil but think again.... Diesel companies such as shell spend millions producing fuel to look after our engines and make them work longer at the right tempertures... Bio fuel is a man in his shed guessing mainly at what the mix is.... Your choice but for me its a big no no.


suit yourself, maybe you should do some proper research first though because a lot of what you've said sounds like pub talk.

me and my dad have already saved around £1k combined in fuel bills in the short time we've been making our own, no problems at all.
 
Pump diesel contains about 5% bio so the seals are compatible. As already said, anything older than 1992 will have rubber seals or hoses which are not compatible.

Lubrication isnt a problem because bio is a lot better lube than dino. However its thicker when cold which can strain the pump. Fuel pipe and filter trace heating is needed in winter. Filtered waste veg oil is not good at more than 2o% as it just too thick. It needs a preheater system so that only hot oil goes through the pump. so you have to faff about swapping fuels and switching back before you stop the engine to clear the veg out of the pump.

Bio is a fantastic solvent and old fuel tanks will have a layer of waxy sludge on the bottom. Bio will soon lift that off and it will clog the fuel filter. Diesel pumps sucking on nothing dont like it very much. An old tank needs to be cleaned out for running bio diesel.

You can make a great processor with a pair of 47kg propane bottles. Take off the valves and wash them out. Fit an immersion heater to one at the bottom and connect them together with a powerful pump. After the pump fit an injection venturi which is where the methoxide is injected. Turbulence in the venturi does the mixing and the mixture goes over to the 2nd gas bottle.

Both tanks are set up inverted giving a nice funnel bottom to draw off the glycerol soap or the settled out oil crud as appropriate. They also need pressure relief valves etc, etc. but being enclosed you wont end up with methanol poisoning.

[ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol"]Methanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Methanol_Lewis.svg" class="image" title="Skeletal formula of methanol with some explicit hydrogens added"><img alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/Methanol_Lewis.svg/121px-Methanol_Lewis.svg.png"@@AMEPARAM@@commons/thumb/f/f1/Methanol_Lewis.svg/121px-Methanol_Lewis.svg.png[/ame] and scroll about 75% down. Not nice.

A garden water butt is ideal for mist washing the fuel.
If its not washed the caustic will attack zinc and alloy in the fuel system. It wont do much without water but all diesel fuels absorb moisture and it settles out as water when it chills then you get the metal attack going on.

I've done all this 10+ years ago but gave up as it was too messy and smelly. But the fuel was fab - really great stuff.
 
I've been buying Bio-Diesel from a guy for 90p a litre for the past few months. He recently told me he had changed his oil supplier and was now using Cottonseed oil to produce the bio. I think its better than the last stuff I was having off him, easily better than supermarket diesel.

Why have I noticed a difference, is cottonseed oil better for producing Bio?
 
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BIO Fuel is not good really unless your using an old bangor.....

There is no lubricant unlike diesel you may think there is being oil but think again.... Diesel companies such as shell spend millions producing fuel to look after our engines and make them work longer at the right tempertures... Bio fuel is a man in his shed guessing mainly at what the mix is.... Your choice but for me its a big no no.
im a man in my shed making bio, but i promise you, theres no guessing involved (y), its all very carefully measured out.

Just a quick warning everyone, I made a batch around feb time, it was new oil, so I used the basic methanol-caustic mix. however, it failed the glycering test. i put another methanol-caustic mix in, and although it was close it still failed. i put a third caustic methanol mix in, and left it for about 3 weeks. it still failed the glycering, but only just. it was clean, and had had almost double the caustic methanol mix in total, that it normally uses.
the bio was clean, and looked fine, so I was a bit stupid and thought id use it anyway. it worked that day, but the next morning, it took about 5 minutes to start, and when it started, the throttle wouldnt respond and it was lumpy for about 30 seconds. the thought of 'oh f**k iv killed my diesel' was rushing through my head alot! after that though it worked fine, and iv not had a problem since, and every other batch iv made before/after that has been fine.
what was wrong with that batch i don't know, but just warning everyone that if you get a problem batch, its probably best not to risk it (y)
 
I've been buying Bio-Diesel from a guy for 90p a litre for the past few months. He recently told me he had changed his oil supplier and was now using Cottonseed oil to produce the bio. I think its better than the last stuff I was having off him, easily better than supermarket diesel.

Why have I noticed a difference, is cottonseed oil better for producing Bio?

better than supermarket diesel?

i don't know anyone who thinks bio diesel is better than normal diesel to be honest, i think my car has lost a bit of power at the top end specially at mway speeds, everyone else i know making it agrees, the 2 people i know who buy it from a local seller noticed much bigger differences, not sure what the seller used to make it or how good they are at it.

i know my fuel is bang on and as above, nothing is guessed.
 
better than supermarket diesel?

i don't know anyone who thinks bio diesel is better than normal diesel to be honest, i think my car has lost a bit of power at the top end specially at mway speeds, everyone else i know making it agrees, the 2 people i know who buy it from a local seller noticed much bigger differences, not sure what the seller used to make it or how good they are at it.

i know my fuel is bang on and as above, nothing is guessed.
to be fair, I haven't noted a power loss at all, if it is, its not noticeable. the only way bio diesel is better, is that is acts as a cleanant to the engine to..
... oh and the price ;)
 
to be fair, I haven't noted a power loss at all, if it is, its not noticeable. the only way bio diesel is better, is that is acts as a cleanant to the engine to..
... oh and the price ;)

it's more the tank it cleans out which blocks your filter ;)

but yeh the price deffinitely does it for me :D i can put up with a slight power loss, 170bhp to start with so i can cope :p
 
better than supermarket diesel?

i don't know anyone who thinks bio diesel is better than normal diesel to be honest, i think my car has lost a bit of power at the top end specially at mway speeds, everyone else i know making it agrees, the 2 people i know who buy it from a local seller noticed much bigger differences, not sure what the seller used to make it or how good they are at it.

i know my fuel is bang on and as above, nothing is guessed.

The Bio I'm now buying is much better than the supermarket crap I've used before.

The car runs much quieter, smokes and smells less, it really does seem to like the stuff.

Yes some people have reported a drop in BHP but it's not really noticeable for normal driving.

I've used supermarket diesel and my car didn't like it.
Others have posted on this forum where their problems were caused by supermarket fuel. Problems disapeared as soon as they reverted back to a good quality diesel.

Do I think this new Bio i'm buying is better than the supermarket crap? HELL YES! ... (y)
 
every fuel i've got from the pump be it diesel or petrol has always been the same.

definitely no notice in normal driving though, not bothered at all, for how much it's costing me it could half my power and i'd still use it for 10-15p a litre :D
 
As I said earlier it will clean out your fuel tank and it should be washed to remove the last trace of caustic.

It has about 5% less energy per litre than dino diesel, but bio contains oxygen so it burns smoother and cleaner so you only notice the power drop if you really work the engine.

When I started I would carefully titrate the oil and work out the ideal caustic dose, but I still had problems. The most reliable solution was to get a rough titrate and then make three 0.5 litre test batches in 1 litre coke bottles e.g. 4, 5 and 6g in each bottle to see which gave the best reaction. Its not mega critical and after a while you get to know which will be best but still do the tests.

Its also imperative the oil is dry. The cheap and dirty option is to heat it to 100C and allow to stand for an hour, then drain off any water that collects. Finally, heat it again until the oil temperature goes above 100C.

A better method would be to spray hot oil into a propane bottle that has been sucked out to vacuum. Water boils at lower temperature (down to 35C at full vacuum). There wont be much water so the mass of oil will be enough to flash any water to steam. But its a complex job, needing cold condensers and vacuum pumps. A fridge compressor makes a good pump.A compressed air driven venturi can pull it down further if needed.
 
filter it with filter it soulds like its got water in might be worth warming it to get rid of water then filter and test again.

To be honest if vehicles can run on bio would be using it myself
 
To be honest if vehicles can run on bio would be using it myself

of course they can run on bio :rolleyes:

most audi's are even approved to use it 100% and the majority of other diesel cars will be fine too, i ran my primera for a year done 25k miles with no bother at all, my uncles ran his for 5/6 year again with no problem.

people assume it's no good after taking duff info in like it's gospel without looking into it properly.

i'd rather everyone thought it was no good to be honest, make it easier for to get free oil :p
 
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