Technical Replacing CV Boots

[LeftyGreg]

So, now I have my b street legal which is great.

On the MoT there were a couple of advisories which I want to sort out quickly and they are related.

Leaking front shock absorber and perished CV boot, probably from the leaking shock. My intention is to replace both shocks and all 4 boots

Has anybody on here done the CV boots?

If so, what kind of tools will I need?

I assume I will need to split a couple of ball joints, but what else will I need

 

[Noideadave]

As well as the usual socket set etc. you will need a hub puller to split the hub from bearing. Also a narrow wall 36mm socket to remove the hub nut. A 6mm Allen key to remove cv joint from the gearbox. Torque wrench.
Plenty of WD 40 and patience.

 

[LeftyGreg]

As well as the usual socket set etc. you will need a hub puller to split the hub from bearing. Also a narrow wall 36mm socket to remove the hub nut. A 6mm Allen key to remove cv joint from the gearbox. Torque wrench.
Plenty of WD 40 and patience.

Thanks Dave,

36mm wow, I think that’s the only thing I haven’t got

 

[Noideadave]

It must be a thin wall socket. Plenty on eBay.
To get the drive shafts off, remove the inner cv joints first , cleaning out the hex holes of dirt and grease and placing the Allen key in a position where it jams on the gearbox or other solid part and turn the brake disc by hand or with a lever just to loosen the bolts before removing the outer.
Or you can just remove the outer cv and unclip it from the shaft, then both the new boots can be slid on the shaft, quicker and easier.

 

[LeftyGreg]

Sounds like a busy weekend once the front shocks arrive as I will do it all in one go

 

[LeftyGreg]

It must be a thin wall socket.

Have you got any idea of what the outside diameter needs to be?

My local spares show has one with 42mm and I want to know if it will do?

 

[Noideadave]

Search 36mm thin wall socket on eBay or laser tools 6279 thin wall socket in Google.

 

[Noideadave]

I’ve just checked and mine is 46mm OD.

 

[LeftyGreg]

I’ve just checked and mine is 46mm OD.

I already have one 47mm will it work or do I need to spend £20 on the Laser tools one

What I don’t want to do is pull the car out of the garage on Saturday morning and find out it doesn’t fit

 

[LeftyGreg]

Ignore the last post, just ordered the Laser tools one, will be here before the weekend

 

[s130]

I've never used then but I gather you can get universal CV boots that have a zip/press groove channel. You cut the inner and outer stepped diameter ends to suit the drive shaft and the CV diameters. You then press and rubber glue (special & supplied) the jointing halves together.

I gather they are generally very successful and as long lasting as a normal CV boot. (so I'm told).

This is an option that saves having to remove the driveshaft/CV joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuEgTqUCBDI

 

[LeftyGreg]

I've never used then but I gather you can get universal CV boots that have a zip/press groove channel. You cut the inner and outer stepped diameter ends to suit the drive shaft and the CV diameters. You then press and rubber glue (special & supplied) the jointing halves together.

I gather they are generally very successful and as long lasting as a normal CV boot. (so I'm told).

This is an option that saves having to remove the driveshaft/CV joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuEgTqUCBDI

I found them when I was searching last week. To me, they sound like a bodge and the reviews I was reading had more bad reviews than good

I would much rather do this properly if possible

Unless anybody here can give me a glowing review on them

 

[s130]

I found them when I was searching last week. To me, they sound like a bodge and the reviews I was reading had more bad reviews than good

I would much rather do this properly if possible

Unless anybody here can give me a glowing review on them

I have no problem with your view. I've always replaced CV boots with new complete items as I have all the kit and skilled required to do so.

Many of the issues and complaints about these universal boots (and many other products) is that people think they are a quick fix and "whack them on". Nothing could be further from the truth. They take time, preparation and cleanliness couple with patience and 1 cm at a time application and progress.

I've used these bonding rubber glues in the past and they will, as demonstrated in the video, provide incredibly strong and durable bonding IF, IF again, you take the appropriate care and cleanliness etc. Indeed those Fiat/Ford/BMW/Volvo ..... aero industry manufactured old style windscreen rubbers and other complex rubber extrusions have bonded joints and nobody complains about those.

As they say it is all about application and detail.

 

[LeftyGreg]

I have no problem with your view. I've always replaced CV boots with new complete items as I have all the kit and skilled required to do so.

Many of the issues and complaints about these universal boots (and many other products) is that people think they are a quick fix and "whack them on". Nothing could be further from the truth. They take time, preparation and cleanliness couple with patience and 1 cm at a time application and progress.

I've used these bonding rubber glues in the past and they will, as demonstrated in the video, provide incredibly strong and durable bonding IF, IF again, you take the appropriate care and cleanliness etc. Indeed those Fiat/Ford/BMW/Volvo ..... aero industry manufactured old style windscreen rubbers and other complex rubber extrusions have bonded joints and nobody complains about those.

As they say it is all about application and detail.

You have a very fair point and if I didn’t already have the new boots, I may have rethought from your comment

As I am changing the front shocks at the same time, it will all be in bits, so I might as well do it

I hope it doesn’t rain this weekend or I may be outside my garage with a gazebo overhead!

 

[s130]

Well good luck with the job and the weather.

Some suggestion for the work ahead.

1) Release / crack off the strut top telescoping shaft nut (but do nut fully remove) while the strut is still firmly secured in the car. Over time these can become seriously set in their ways and trying to undo out of the car can be a serious challenge.

2) When undoing the strut to hub bolts before they are fully released check if the hub was preloaded. By that I mean that the hub was in a lifted up position in the strut to hub holes or a drop down/hanging position in the holes. It is best to do this as the strut and hub holes have clearances which meands that the hub will be able to be moved up and down and angled a little. This in turn will cause a toe-in/toe-out changes.

If you plan on getting the tracking checked then I always pre-load the strut/hub joint as then any excessive road loading, pot holes, etc. can not make the joint move.

A little suggestion when releasing the strut to hub bolts.

 

[LeftyGreg]

Been thinking about this and have now got two options!

S130, I have taken on board everything you have said. The advice in your last post will be very helpful.

As far as the CV boot goes, I have a full set of new boots for both ends of the drive shafts, but, I only have one split, likely due to the shock absorber leaking on it.

I have now ordered one of the easy fit boots and will decide when I start looking at it which way to go. If the job seems easy enough, I will strip the shafts and replace all of the boots, but, if I struggle with getting it apart, will probably take the easy route and fit the universal kit with the glue, making sure that I keep it all clean and join it properly