Technical Rear Shocks Upgrade
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Technical Rear Shocks Upgrade
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I have 20mm plywood pads with 50 x 25 mm wood blocks screwed on. These go under the sill jacking points (marked by inverted triangle on the sill side). I can then safely use axle stands under the sills without bending the flange. At the front, I used them directly for jacking. The stands go under the subframe using the retaining bolt and shape of the frame to prevent the stand slipping. At the back, I jack under the spring pan near the shock absorber brackets. The axle stands go under the sills.
Edit - I made an L-shape beam from 6 x 2 stud work timber that goes from left to right all the way under the rear axle cross beam. It works and allows one jack to lift the whole back end. But it's such a hassle to use there is no benefit.
Edit - I made an L-shape beam from 6 x 2 stud work timber that goes from left to right all the way under the rear axle cross beam. It works and allows one jack to lift the whole back end. But it's such a hassle to use there is no benefit.
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Jack under the axle but not in the centre in stead near the spring where its stronger
It's stromger here and you are lifting less than 50% the weigh
Or just use the factory jack properly and use the pads for the axle stands
A bit like a poor man's tap where you cut a slot in a bolt.
It would be except for the tapper and pilot at the end of the thread make it almost impossible to cross thread
Since their introduction in late 1990s
Gone are the days when you had to try several times to start a bolt in a hole without cross threading it, and it required skill
It's funny. I remember how it often took several goes to start a bolt.. Yet didn't immediately notice that they now nearly always start first time now.
Same bolt is used on the Panda, 500, punto
Tens of millions fitted, without any problems
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But when you don't fit the top bolt first and don't understand how damaging these can be, they WILL go cross thread. The damage is so bad you can't clean the threads with a tap.
Fit the top bolt first and all will be well. Ideally check before offering up the new shock so you know the correct angle. Belt, braces and glue.
I'm in the process of trying to fit the new bump stops. It's very frustrating. I cannot get the rubber nipple to fit into the hole. I've cleaned the hole with a small rotary brush and have put washing up liquid on the nipple but it just doesn't want to twist in! Has anyone got any other ideas please? At this rate I'm going to have to cut down the diameter of the nipple and I really don't want to do that!
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Cut a length if 20mm (3/4")** dowel to go inside the bump stop (square pine trimmed with a knife will do) and stick out by about an inch (or 30mm). Round off the top end. You do not want corners that can damage the rubber bump stop.
Use the jack to press the bump stop into place with red rubber grease as lubricant. Detergent is a bad idea as it's pretty corrosive to most metals. Apply pressure from the jack and rock the bump stop nipple to get it moving into place. Gradually add more jack and more waggling until it's done. It should have been Terry Wogan's Jack & Jill gag.
** I think I used 20mm dowel. You'll need to check what fits.
Use the jack to press the bump stop into place with red rubber grease as lubricant. Detergent is a bad idea as it's pretty corrosive to most metals. Apply pressure from the jack and rock the bump stop nipple to get it moving into place. Gradually add more jack and more waggling until it's done. It should have been Terry Wogan's Jack & Jill gag.
** I think I used 20mm dowel. You'll need to check what fits.
I tried copper grease and a jack under the spring pan to compress them but still couldn't get them in. My patience ran out and I cut a couple of flats on the nipple flange with a Stanley knife. I then managed to twist them in.
Not sure how long it will be before they end up in the bottom of the springs. I will then resort to JB Weld or No More Nails to glue them in place.
I think they are a fairly bad design. I would love to know how they got them in on the production line.
Thanks for the help and advice everyone. It's much appreciated.
Photo shows the appalling state of the old ones against the new ones.
Not sure how long it will be before they end up in the bottom of the springs. I will then resort to JB Weld or No More Nails to glue them in place.
I think they are a fairly bad design. I would love to know how they got them in on the production line.
Thanks for the help and advice everyone. It's much appreciated.
Photo shows the appalling state of the old ones against the new ones.
Attachments
A genuine replacement part is normally just a twist while pushing, simple
This kind of thing happens all the time
And why garages will not normally fit customer supplied part
Never had any experience of PUR brand, so dont know it it's just a bad batch
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I can see why you had problem fitting them
If you compare these febi bump stops with yours
The shape of the nipples are completely different
The old febi has a gradual slop until it drops through the hole
Yours has much more of a ledge
If you compare these febi bump stops with yours
The shape of the nipples are completely different
The old febi has a gradual slop until it drops through the hole
Yours has much more of a ledge
I can see what you mean. The number printed on the bump stop shows them to be manufactured 11/22. So maybe Febi have changed the design. Photos show packaging with part number etc. Unless I've been sold the wrong part. I'll try Googling the part number
Attachments
Part number is correct
This is febi catalogue
Even their picture looks poor quality to me. If you zoom in its not well moulded with voids and bubbles
This is febi catalogue
febi | 36976 | Bump Stop for rear axle support | bilstein group partsfinder | Official Catalogue for febi, SWAG & Blue Print Spare Parts
febi 36976 Bump Stop for rear axle support suitable for Abarth, FIAT Fitting Position: rear axle
partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com
Even their picture looks poor quality to me. If you zoom in its not well moulded with voids and bubbles
To late for you
But for others going down this road
The original birth branded ones looks like they should be easier to fit
But for others going down this road
The original birth branded ones looks like they should be easier to fit
