Technical read a few posts on here, just a quick couple of questions

[adam cinq]

my cinq is sufferening from the red injection light.

misfires a little upto about 20mph then loses power and really struggles to get past 40mph

after reading a few posts, checking the timing
the timing tdc wire,

and after that take the cam cover off, and take out the lifters and clean and refill,
what oil do i use to refill and how do i set the lifters so they are right?

and after that, if that dont fix it ill be looking at coil packs? and ecu fault?

cheers, adam

 

[rallycinq]

Welcome. Lifters will not really cause the car to stutter and put the EML on.

Does it do this when cold or hot?

Cheers

D

 

[adam cinq]

seems ok when starting but after a few mins its apparent and progressivly gets worse to a state of undriveability

 

[rallycinq]

Sounds like the lambda sensor. This only works when warm and is not seeing the correct exhaust gas coming past it, and is sending signals to the ecu to adjust the fuelling.

However, it could also be the throttle position sensor.

It could be worth getting the code read rather than stabbing in the dark.

Cheers

D

 

[fingers99]

It could be worth getting the code read rather than stabbing in the dark.

That's the way I'd go: you could easily spend 2 or 3 times the money trying to sort it by trial and error.

 

[adam cinq]

where is the diag port on the car?

ill see if halfords have a code reader today

 

[adam cinq]

halfords didnt have a code reader. i drove it to and from work today about 1mile and its fine its got noisy top end? tappets?

the lambda would pick up the fault but it would be already apparent then it would pick it up,. so what would cause it to overfuel?

 

[adam cinq]

ok ive been thinking, the lambda could be the cause of the misfire, but why is it reading too much fuel instead of what it shud be

so this would mean its getting too much fuel?

it runs ok, get warm and is getting too much fuel the lambda read this then puts the light on a trims the fueling down and then it gets too little fuel and cuts out?


or i dunno my head is wreaked off this. i just want it to run, espec after last night it decided to not start altogether

 

[custard]

lambda sens a signal to the ECU.this signal allows the ECU to decide what the fueling should be.
if its getting a false lambda reading it makes the wrong fueling adjustments.
lambda is a suspect as the ECU only uses its data once the engine is warm

 

[adam cinq]

ive ordered a coolent temp sensor as if this is broken it will chcuck fuel in thinking the engine is cold when it isnt then the lambda sees fuels in the exhaust system and retards it overly?

if that doesnt cure it ill fit a new lambda. how much are they by the way? do they fail often?

 

[frenchwood]

I had the same problem and swapped out the Lambda sensor and all is good.

You can get universal lambda sensors from most good autofactors, but if you have the cash, i'd suggest the FIAT Dealership as your first port of call.

If you have more probs, PM me and i'll run you through the symptoms of my Cinq to see if it is a match.

Cheers

M

EDIT::

Don't forget, if you have a exhaust manifold/down pipe leak from the exhaust, then the Lambda sensor will not fucntion correctly, so this should be the first place you look!

 

[adam cinq]

so look for the exhaust leaking,
what about if the back box rattle's like its collapsed a little inside? would that do it?

ive just changed plugs leads, fuel and air filter and done a oil change

after 5 mins of running from cold it does it at fast idle

and out on the road.

also looks like its had a new crankshaft sensor too

 

[frenchwood]

If your back pressure is wrong in the exhaust, the lambda sensor gets a bad gas reading, so Yes If the baffles have collapsed, the cars performance will suffer.

The injector light coming on initiates something called "Limp Home Mode" in the ECU. This basically give the car enough fuel to get home, which is usually WAY too much and will cause a fast idle.
Get a wet rag and plug it into the exhaust and hold it while the engine is running (be VERY careful here, it gets hot and builds up pressure, so do it at arms length with gloves on, and keep your face and body away from the exhaust!) The engine should stutter and if there are any gas leaks you will hear them, you will also hear a muffled rattling if the baffles have collapsed.

If this is not the case then the Exhaust is ok.

In the engine bay, look at the throttle body, from the back under the air cleaner there is a small black pipe that leads to the inlet switch, with 3 pipes. One to the exhaust manifold cover, one to air inlet at the front of the engine bay, and one to the air cleaner. Check the black pipe is fitted to the air switch (where the three pipes meet in a block) tightly, and to the throttle body tightly, check the air cleaner is seated properly on the rubber seal, and check that there is no damage to that seal, air escaping/leaking will affect performance.

Always use a good quality air filter (greens are pretty good http://www.greenfilters.com/index/GREsearchbyvehicle_partlist.asp?Vehicle=FTCIN01&PartType=AFG08).

Another check is the raocker cover case breather pipe, this runs from the rocker cover to the air filter housing... Take the pipe off (bloody horrible fitting fiat clamps on it... Grrr...) and check for oil in it, if there is, clean it out with some Carb cleaner, and while you're at it check for signs of oil in the filter housing... if there is any, once again, a good clean with the carb cleaner should take care of it.

After that, if performance feels wrong, or your injector light is on all the time, let me know and i'll run you through some basic diagnostic engines checks you can do yourself to see if it is the injector/throttle body that is at fault.

Any probs mate, then please let me know.

Cheers

 

[adam cinq]

thank you for the info, ill do that lot tomorow, i think the back box is gone? if i hit it from underneath it sounds like stuff is moving around,

injector light only comes on after a few mins or about 3-4 miles driving

possibly the exhaust, ill check for leaks and poss change the back box and see what that brings

 

[frenchwood]

No probs.

I shuld really put a HOWTO: together on this.... One day!

 

[adam cinq]

right removed the back box, and found a nice hole in it
then decided to check the centre-flexi and yup that has gone to

****

so gonna order new exhaust monday i started it without the back box and after a few mins it still threw up the red light, but i fear its gonna be the lambda or coolent temp sensor.

lambda is 4 wire one witch i fear is gonna be about £50 :bang:

 

[adam cinq]

this is the back box condition

other side,,

tail pipe

the flexi, or lack of

the ahem "clamp" that held it on

all of it in its holy rusty glory

 

[rallycinq]

Probably the lambda objecting because the exhaust is not complete.

Cheers

D

 

[adam cinq]

hopefully,
didnt know they were that sensitive

 

[frenchwood]

Adam, as i said earlier mate, if the back pressure is wrong the Lambda sensor will complain as the gas flow is wrong.

See how it goes with a new zorst... but if i were you and had the cash, then i'd change the lambda sensor as a matter of course, as the injector light is usually indicative of a faulty lambda sensor.

Mine was also a 4 wire sensor... cost me £30 for a universal one...

You have to cut off the old one at the wires and block connect the new one... piece of cake, took me ten mins.

let me know how you get on!

The coolant temp sensor should light the injector light, but it's not a bad thing to swap out anyways!!

EDIT:: Oh yeah... and BLOODY HELL @ Rusty Zorst! was it standing in water?? lol

cheers