dericreynolds
New member
thanks alot!! do you have any other tips or sites?
-Deric
-Deric
R/C Car question
- Thread starter CinquePunto
- Start date
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R/C Car question
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Don't sit at one engine speed, run the car at a range of speeds/rpms without going over half throttle. Be smooth with the throttle. Don't idle on the spot, it's aircooled. Other than that, follow what Apex say. 
dericreynolds
New member
thank you both for the tips!
-Deric
-Deric
I use plane fuel when breaking a new engine in (LOL< this was years ago now).
it has about 18% castor oil in it, rather than the 1.5-4% that car specific fuel has in it.
just gives a bit extra lube for when the engine is tight, and transports the swarf out of the engine pretty smoothly.
creates more smoke than a pocket battleship and stinks, but MEH
some say too much castor oil can swamp the engine and this and that theory, but IMO it works pretty well, especially when trying to get a cold new engine going that is tighter than, well imagine
OH and one more thing, on the absolute FIRST run (you've probably done it now already), break out your mums best hairdrier and HEAT the engine and block up as much as you can (can take about 5-8mins). it'll help lube the bearings on the first run, so that at least they aren't completly dry for the first 20-30sec's of running (crucial).
although from what you've said, the car you have is pretty basic, and the engine is a big clumsy low tolerance job. so you'll find you will get away with a lot, e.g. running it with moisture in the tank/fuel, air filter popping off and you not noticing, cold starts on damp mornings etc
it has about 18% castor oil in it, rather than the 1.5-4% that car specific fuel has in it.
just gives a bit extra lube for when the engine is tight, and transports the swarf out of the engine pretty smoothly.
creates more smoke than a pocket battleship and stinks, but MEH
some say too much castor oil can swamp the engine and this and that theory, but IMO it works pretty well, especially when trying to get a cold new engine going that is tighter than, well imagine
OH and one more thing, on the absolute FIRST run (you've probably done it now already), break out your mums best hairdrier and HEAT the engine and block up as much as you can (can take about 5-8mins). it'll help lube the bearings on the first run, so that at least they aren't completly dry for the first 20-30sec's of running (crucial).
although from what you've said, the car you have is pretty basic, and the engine is a big clumsy low tolerance job. so you'll find you will get away with a lot, e.g. running it with moisture in the tank/fuel, air filter popping off and you not noticing, cold starts on damp mornings etc
dericreynolds
New member
well i havent quite gotten it yet. im goin to be getting it for christmas...so i'll have it pretty soon. but thanks for filling me in.
-Deric
-Deric
bmwmike
New member
The first time u start ur nitro car it will scare the **** out of u even if u think ur ready. And a few stupid things I have done try not to do.
- don’t drive near curbs/gutters with out some sort of bumper unless u don’t like ur front suspension assembly.
- make sure ur in a good mood when u drive it as u may feel the need to thrash the guts out of it in anger.
- and the MOST important thing is not to let ur mates egg u on to do sumthin stupid it will only cost u big $$$ in repairs ( i cant stress this enough)
- don’t drive near curbs/gutters with out some sort of bumper unless u don’t like ur front suspension assembly.
- make sure ur in a good mood when u drive it as u may feel the need to thrash the guts out of it in anger.
- and the MOST important thing is not to let ur mates egg u on to do sumthin stupid it will only cost u big $$$ in repairs ( i cant stress this enough)
boyonthehill
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I had a Thunder Tiger EX-10 once upon a time. IT never ran right until I took the engine apart. It had a pull start, and the damn thing used to go all the time. The electrics were dodgy too, i was blasting it about one time and the electrics stopped responding....straight into a curb and the exhaust fell off. good times, good times
dericreynolds
New member
i finally got my r/c car but the starter kit hasnt arrived yet. is there anything else i need to know before i fire it up?! you guys have been very helpfull so far & i will keep up with this forum.
-Deric
-Deric
OP
OP
read the manual through about 6 times... I quickly read it and found out that I should have primed the engine before starting it... D'oh!
It took about 3 hours to start the first time, and I then broke the pullstart. I now have a drill start adapter (so much easier)
I also find it easier to prime by pulling off the hose that connects to the exhaust and blowing through it, rather than putting finger over exhaust and pulling the cord (may just be me...)
It took about 3 hours to start the first time, and I then broke the pullstart. I now have a drill start adapter (so much easier)
I also find it easier to prime by pulling off the hose that connects to the exhaust and blowing through it, rather than putting finger over exhaust and pulling the cord (may just be me...)
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Pinch the hopse as soon as you finish blowing on the tube if you do it that way. Many a time it's come straight up back through the hose and into my mouth:yuck:
The aftertaste is bloomin' awful and sticks with you for ages. Found a study article somewhere about a content in nitro fuel being pretty damn bad for you if you do something like that.
The aftertaste is bloomin' awful and sticks with you for ages. Found a study article somewhere about a content in nitro fuel being pretty damn bad for you if you do something like that.
dericreynolds
New member
i have a question.....what would cause the big and small gear in my transmission to strip out after for only 1 tank after break in?! and i wasn't even gouging into the gas!! someone please let me know if you think you know.
-Deric
-Deric
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I guess you mean the plastic one and two speed gears. Improper gear mesh most common, folowed by crap like stones getting in there, however that is more unlikely. What surface are you running on.
To set the gear mesh easiest, slacken the adjustment screws, slide the engine away from the gears, put a piece of paper inbetween the two gears, slide the gears back into contact and retighten. Remove said bit of paper and voila. If you hold the clutchbell still (the metal gear), you should be able to slightly rock the plastic gear back and forth, if you can't, it's too tight, if you can too much, it's too loose. It's a bit of an art, you'll get it though
To set the gear mesh easiest, slacken the adjustment screws, slide the engine away from the gears, put a piece of paper inbetween the two gears, slide the gears back into contact and retighten. Remove said bit of paper and voila. If you hold the clutchbell still (the metal gear), you should be able to slightly rock the plastic gear back and forth, if you can't, it's too tight, if you can too much, it's too loose. It's a bit of an art, you'll get it though
dericreynolds
New member
i am useing my car on dirt mostly. the way the gears look it looks like the engine was to far away from the gears all it did was knock the tops of the teeth off. is it ok to put the same gears back in there and just move the moter over or will that not work?
-Deric
-Deric
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May work in the short term but I would get new gears in there for max efficiency. There's no rule saying you can't, if you can get it to work on stripped teeth then so be it! It won't last long though so get new ones on order.
dericreynolds
New member
okay thanks for letting me know. i figured i should get new ones but just wanted to check.
-Deric
-Deric
what car is it.
if its a tourer of any shape or form don't run it on dirt.
ONLY nice smooth modern tarmac without chippings everywhere.
if its a tourer of any shape or form don't run it on dirt.
ONLY nice smooth modern tarmac without chippings everywhere.
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Sounds like you're not alone:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5138269/anchors_5138694/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5138694
Unless that's you!
However you should go over the car and make sure the screws are tight/locktighted as appropriate. Just a shame they don't let you know in the manual. Marketing ploy or what eh!?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5138269/anchors_5138694/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5138694
Unless that's you!
However you should go over the car and make sure the screws are tight/locktighted as appropriate. Just a shame they don't let you know in the manual. Marketing ploy or what eh!?
Anyone tried a nitro R/C engine into cinquecento?
OP
OP
Anyone tried a nitro R/C engine into cinquecento?
It'd make it quicker lol
dericreynolds
New member
it is a tornado BB with a .18 big block... it is a buggy.. but i am going to try and see if i can find some aluminum gears today...
-Deric
-Deric
