Quickie Amp and Sub question.

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Quickie Amp and Sub question.

PhatAshKi said:
Ok most of it is in, been doing bits after work, Gonna finish it completly sunday, Now to help with the cooling and heat issues i've got 2 12v fans, 1 to suck the hot air out of the bottom encloser (which leads into the main build) where the small amp is and another is gonna be in the parcel shelf to suck hot air from the main build where the main amp and capacitor is. Now technically that should help draw the hot air away from the amps etc but they obviously need to be powered.

Im thinkin of having a relay with the main feed coming from the fused dist block and the switched live would be the 12v positive feed from my head unit. This would also be used for the remote for my amps if it works, Wat im asking is will this be ok to use to turn on the amps?? Or can i only use the hu feed?

As always im sure Chaos would know his stuff :D

Also as asked above would my 10cm be able to be heard ova me subs or would i need to upgrade to 6"'s in the doors at a later date?

Speakers first off - if you can fit the 6s/6.5s in, then fit them - should be more efficient due to the much larger cone area.

You can use a relay :) As you said use the disi power as the main feed but use the remote cable from the HU for the switching +12V.

I do have a link somewhere which goes through it all and has Maplins codes for the bits :) There's also a good page about relays on www.bcae1.com

Here's the link - http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=17895

HTH
 
Cheers Choas, I got all the bits was just making sure i could do it, Thats cool.

Bout the speakers no i dont have the room thats the problem, Only have space for the 10's in the dash upfront. Hope they can hold there own, If not ill have to make some sort of door pods in the door cards. Altho dunno how i will.

Trying to avoid 6x9 so they will be my last resort.
 
Right its all in, And im a little dissapointed really, The front speakers even tho only being 10cm sound really good and can def hold there sound to the subs, Think being amped has helped that.

Spoke to someone who knows about ice and Basically to cut a long story short as both subs are 4 ohms and being run in paralell the amp is giving out 2 ohms, They run fine but when the volume is turned up high on big bass beats where the extra power is needed the impedence drops from 2 and even below 1 which then the amp thinks it shorting out and so protects it.

Have tried this thoery with only 1 sub wired up and can go alot higher in volume and the extra power is being used from the capacitor where when both is wired up the amp isnt giving out enough for the cap to be needed. :(:(:(:(

Is there any way around this or will have to get another amp for the subs and run 1 amp on each to fix it?
 
PhatAshKi said:
Right its all in, And im a little dissapointed really, The front speakers even tho only being 10cm sound really good and can def hold there sound to the subs, Think being amped has helped that.

Spoke to someone who knows about ice and Basically to cut a long story short as both subs are 4 ohms and being run in paralell the amp is giving out 2 ohms, They run fine but when the volume is turned up high on big bass beats where the extra power is needed the impedence drops from 2 and even below 1 which then the amp thinks it shorting out and so protects it.

Have tried this thoery with only 1 sub wired up and can go alot higher in volume and the extra power is being used from the capacitor where when both is wired up the amp isnt giving out enough for the cap to be needed. :(:(:(:(

Is there any way around this or will have to get another amp for the subs and run 1 amp on each to fix it?

First of all try it without the cap.

What gauge power cable how you got Ash? I'm wondering if you're having a power supply problem :chin:
 
The caps not doing anything with both subs wired up as soon as the extra bass is needed the amp cuts out. With sticking at the same volume wen one of the subs is removed the cap isnt used untill the sound and heavy bass is needed and basically gets used where it normally cuts out with 2 subs (If you understand that) I can also turn the volume up with no cutting out resulting in more bass.

I got 4 awg cable but only using max of 80 amps, Maybe 1 or 2 more for the fans but the amps are max 60 and 20 amps. Which should be surfice.

Bout wat i posted earlier bout the 2 ohms and everything seems to be on the right lines as i have spoken to a few other people but no one has any way of fixing it. Unless buying another amp but as well as upgrading the cable i havent the room for money for it :( May just have to life with it.

I would also mention i had this same problem with my last amp and same subs. Which was also a kenwood with protection. This was a smaller amp only 600 wrms at 2 ohms and at 60amps max, But still had the same problem. That also had 4awg power cables.

I still have have this old amp with me, so could possibly fit that and just upgrade the cable. The 4 ohms rms is wat i need for 1 sub so could turn down the gain on new one and run the subs seperatly. Altho will this sound ok? and could i run both amps off 1 cap? Its a 2 fared so should be able to cope.
 
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PhatAshKi said:
The caps not doing anything with both subs wired up as soon as the extra bass is needed the amp cuts out. With sticking at the same volume wen one of the subs is removed the cap isnt used untill the sound and heavy bass is needed and basically gets used where it normally cuts out with 2 subs (If you understand that) I can also turn the volume up with no cutting out resulting in more bass.

I got 4 awg cable but only using max of 80 amps, Maybe 1 or 2 more for the fans but the amps are max 60 and 20 amps. Which should be surfice.

Bout wat i posted earlier bout the 2 ohms and everything seems to be on the right lines as i have spoken to a few other people but no one has any way of fixing it. Unless buying another amp but as well as upgrading the cable i havent the room for money for it :( May just have to life with it.

I would also mention i had this same problem with my last amp and same subs. Which was also a kenwood with protection. This was a smaller amp only 600 wrms at 2 ohms and at 60amps max, But still had the same problem. That also had 4awg power cables.

I still have have this old amp with me, so could possibly fit that and just upgrade the cable. The 4 ohms rms is wat i need for 1 sub so could turn down the gain on new one and run the subs seperatly. Altho will this sound ok? and could i run both amps off 1 cap? Its a 2 fared so should be able to cope.

Don't fit the cap - it'll make the problem worse, not better. I'm wondering whether your charging system (battery and alt) are up to the job :chin:
 
Blooody should be cars only 2 years old. Have a voltage display on my dist block and with car not running its at 12.3 and wen running is reading 14. somthing.

Had the same problem in my cinq tho and had no cap. Ill try and hav a go and remove the cap ova the weekend. Y make thins complicated with 2 subs, Might sell em and go to a single 12"
 
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OMG I feel so stupid.

Last weekend went out to test my new wiring in of the cap but still was no good and had the same cutting out problem, So thought sod it ill hav to live with it. On wednesday getting into the car i heard a high pitch beeping noise coming from the back of the car. It was my fused dist block telling me one of my fuses had blown but wen going to replace it i touched it, it moved and the beeping stoped. This fuse was used to power the relay that powers the postive 12v feed to turn on the amps and the fans.

Investigating further i found the holding clamps wasnt tight enough for the fuse and it was moving bout and becoming disconnected. Didnt have time to fix it then so left it.

On my day off today went out and had a fiddle and was still loose, Toke the cover off the block and squezzed the clamps together making a tight connection, While i was at it i did the same for all the other fuses.

Turned on my car and stereo and da da, No more cutting out ova the bumps, ALSO no more cutting out on big bass section, Come to the conclusion that wen the sub produced a large enough bass to shake the car it shoke the fuse loose and for a split second dissconnected it causing the amps and fan to reset. Wat a fool i was and proves just wat a silly little thing like a pair of fuse clamps not tight enough can ruin the sound system

Anyway all fitted now and sounding great :)
 
PhatAshKi said:
Do they really not do anygood? I hav a feeling it wasnt actually needed, Cause the gain is turned down on the amp its not running the full wack and ive only eva seen it come on once, Rest of the time apart from starting and turning off the engine it sits in standby mode. Looks good tho lol

Nope - not in the way they were targeted anyway. AFAIK ICE caps came about in the early/mid 90s when a competitor in the States was experiencing spiking in his power supply. By using a couple of caps he overcame this, and did very well. Naturally, people emulated him. However, and this is the crucial difference - the caps were marketed as a solution to your power supply problems, which most of the time wasn't really 100% accurate. A cap is a leech on a power supply, i.e. it will eat up power itself. How can that solve a lack of power? It doesn't make sense. It 'smooths out' for want of a better word, the power supply from the battery. Nothing else really. It does not increase the amount of power available to an amp per se when the power supply itself is lacking.

If you are experiencing power supply problems, i.e. a lack of power, then a cap would only make the problem worse. You are better off getting an uprated battery/alternator, or doing the big three.

Ash, you are better off without the cap :)
 
Well Thanks to Chaos my ICE is finally all in and sounding great. Just some pics for you all. Once again thx everyone for your help. Fading led light pods are in the last pic.

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Ahh, so thats what my amp will look like eventually when its opend out of the box and installed lol, looks smart ash, glad you got it up any running well eventually, put a new thread up in the my motors bit, to show the new install off, as it looks good, you'll get more ppl seeing it there too (y)

Jordan
 
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