Quickie Amp and Sub question.

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Quickie Amp and Sub question.

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I wouldnt be selling it just because im going to use it in the stilo. Glad to hear you got one though. I have a 0AWG wireign kit that i got brand new for £20 (well i got it free coz my gf bought me it) but it was on offer on car audio direct and even though its massive overkill it was cheap and i can use it in any car with practically any system.

Jordan
 
PhatAshKi said:
Yeah thats the one i looking at jorden, its bout 50 quid now but says only up to 2000w, with both my amps it will come to 2400, altho on the ebay one it says 4awo yet its 3000w hows that work out?

Bought the amp for 150 delivered from another site, so not to bad,

It's not the wattage you want to watch out for - you want to look for the ampage drawn by the amps. If you are looking at over 80A, get 0awg.
 
Ill have a look on the website, Altho speaking to my m8 who works for an electronic audio shop who installs and connects up peoples home audio and tv set ups says that the 4 awg should be fine for what i need it for. Ya can buy 4awg kits on internet with 120 amp fuse so should be ok, But as im not actually using the amps to there full potention ( just ova 2 thirds of wat they produce ) ill be turning the gain down on both of em to level out the RMS anyway so wont actually be drawing the max power they need.

Heres hoping anyway.
 
PhatAshKi said:
Ill have a look on the website, Altho speaking to my m8 who works for an electronic audio shop who installs and connects up peoples home audio and tv set ups says that the 4 awg should be fine for what i need it for. Ya can buy 4awg kits on internet with 120 amp fuse so should be ok, But as im not actually using the amps to there full potention ( just ova 2 thirds of wat they produce ) ill be turning the gain down on both of em to level out the RMS anyway so wont actually be drawing the max power they need.

Heres hoping anyway.

120A is the limit IMO. Personally, I would not go above 80 on 4awg - you can go a little further, but I would just upgrade to 0awg ;)
 
PhatAshKi said:
I take it that to turn my amps 900wrms to roughly 700w which is wat i need i would need to adjust the input sensitivity (which i hope is gain) down slightly ? As apart from LPF thats the only other thing i can turn down.

No, not as such.

Back the gain off all the way to zero.

Have the volume at 75/80%

Increase gain until the speakers/sub start distorting.

Back the gain off slightly until no distortion can be heard.

Job done.
 
Yeah i read thats wat to do, But just checking the actual input sensitivity is the right nob to turn down .

And to just double check the 900w in 2 ohms will def be ok to turn down to work with 2 x 350 wrms 4 ohm subs Wired in paralell. Im just so parinoid lol

Fitting it this week
 
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Just keep it easy on the volume for the first few hours - don't send the subs a clipped signal, and you should be fine :)

The subs and amps should be fine Ash.
 
Right i have everything delivered to start work on it thiis weekend and possibly finish it next, Sound proved the rear quarters and boot cover, Completely filled it (absoulutly stuffed) with that stuff ya find in teddy's etc, Apprently near enuf as good as proper sound proofing but 1/10 of the price lol.

Anyway my last question on the subject is, Before i install all this will just two pairs of 10cm be able to be heard ova the subs and actually sound any good or will it sound cack?

I got normal 10cm running in the rear from the headunit and the front 10 cm components running from an amp and obviously the subs from their amp. Now wit out subs and components but the with new rear speakers installed the actual sound is loud and pretty clear and decent just no bass.
Will the components make it better (I hope they do) and will they all be able to hold their ground against the subs.

I didnt really wanna stick 6x9's in the rear shelf and theres no room in door cards to hav speakers, Could stick some 6" in the rear quartes but that would involve diy'ing a wooden plate in the pocket and will look naff.

Cheers for all the help.

On the plus side i ordered a 4 way fuse distribution block for £5 but they cocked up in the store room and sent me a £50 electronic voltage display fused block so im happy wit that heh :D
 
Hmm im not sure that you'll be able to hear them myself, i mean, yes you'll hear them, but not clearly im pretty sure. Get/make some custom door pods? I have some ready made for the cinq with space for a set of 6 inch speakers already coverd in black material, but they can be smoothed with filler if needed, and sprayed if your interested

Jordan
 
Its not for a cinq, I bought a new car since, which is y i rebuilding my ice,

Got an Suzuki Ignis now and dont fancy sticking in custom fabric builds in all the plastic rear quarters and door panels as it wont look right,

Not a decent pic but kinda see the doors and wont look right wit fabric door builds at the bottom.

Unless could get the same type as wat on door handle, Still gotta build em tho and im no good wit fibre glass or filler.

P1010333.jpg
 
Ok most of it is in, been doing bits after work, Gonna finish it completly sunday, Now to help with the cooling and heat issues i've got 2 12v fans, 1 to suck the hot air out of the bottom encloser (which leads into the main build) where the small amp is and another is gonna be in the parcel shelf to suck hot air from the main build where the main amp and capacitor is. Now technically that should help draw the hot air away from the amps etc but they obviously need to be powered.

Im thinkin of having a relay with the main feed coming from the fused dist block and the switched live would be the 12v positive feed from my head unit. This would also be used for the remote for my amps if it works, Wat im asking is will this be ok to use to turn on the amps?? Or can i only use the hu feed?

As always im sure Chaos would know his stuff :D

Also as asked above would my 10cm be able to be heard ova me subs or would i need to upgrade to 6"'s in the doors at a later date?
 
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