Technical Punto 1.2 8v 2010 timing belt

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Technical Punto 1.2 8v 2010 timing belt

I will take a photo of my own engine card, to avoid some confusion.
 

"Engine Codes: 169A4.000, 199A4.000, 188A4.000 (EVO2 only), 350A.000"

So note what it says there "188A4.000 (EVO2 only)

The cam kit does a range of engines
the evo 2 uses the half bone and the plate across the back of the cam shaft in the groove"

And the thread is a guide for the timing using tools
 
and you can see in the guide the cam sprocket bolt is as Koala described for the later engine. and the crank sprocket has the same part number:)
 

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i suppose by now you have seen my message where it seems you have the evo2 engine that is timed using the tools. So it has to be set at top dead centre on number one. Which you can do fairly accurately if you have two identical length rods in cylinders 1 and 4. And at the battery end of the engine there is that offset slot. I think if you can find a piece of metal about 30cms long that goes accurately in that slot you can tell if it is level so you dont need to have special tools.

The manual suggests for DIY you use a spark plug which has been drilled through for the rod and a dial guage. but on the other cars you use two special tools in cylinders 1 and 4 to get the rods the same height and you dont need a dial guage. i cannot see how the evo2 can be so different. I used two carefully marked screwdrives on my car which was ok. and when i got the special tools it was not like a big difference at all. it is still fiddly and not very precise. you get errors at the crankshaft and then errors at the camshaft even with the tools. You have to be lucky to get it timed right to the nearest degrees. I suppose that is why you use the tool on the crankshaft. if you measure tdc at the cylinder the crank is in a different position to what is really needed because of the movement between parts.
 
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That's an incomplete set. See the cambelt guide for 1.2 punto evo from the guides section for correct procedures and tools.

Also the timing belt set usually has complete online guides, so look no further than that. It only gets too complicated if one starts asking opinions and this and that. So you took a huge risk by not using the tools. You're lucky that it even runs at all! (y) Get the correct locking&timing tools and if you're able to lock camshaft and crankshaft with this current belt, you somehow managed to get it right anyway. (y)

Also MES can show if timing is correct. But i'm not sure how!?
 
That's an incomplete set. See the cambelt guide for 1.2 punto evo from the guides section for correct procedures and tools.

Also the timing belt set usually has complete online guides, so look no further than that. It only gets too complicated if one starts asking opinions and this and that. So you took a huge risk by not using the tools. You're lucky that it even runs at all! (y) Get the correct locking&timing tools and if you're able to lock camshaft and crankshaft with this current belt, you somehow managed to get it right anyway. (y)

Also MES can show if timing is correct. But i'm not sure how!?
i think you will find different punto engines need different tools and the guide here says you need that straight plate thing to lock the cam.

"The cam kit does a range of engines
the evo 2 uses the half bone and the plate across the back of the cam shaft in the groove"

The evo engine has a cam sensor so in theory if the timing is wrong you get an error but you can persuade the computer the timing is correct? using the phonic learn method which is i suppose where the MES is useful

"I showed the garage the "phonic wheel learn" option on their diagnostic machine and they did it, and now it's all ok. The procedure was to rev 3 times to 5-6,000rpm then return to idle."
 
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Is this correct tool to order?

PS. my initial concern was, what can I expect form my engine if timing is out of order. Would that be somehow notable by my driving experience, or engine codes, or anything?
 
No, MES can actually show actual &desired timing advance angles but a better idea is to get the correct tools.

Those tools are pretty universal. This one just does not have a tensioner tool, a VVT- gear lock (found in the guide) which are needed for these newer VVT- type FIRE engines. The set which you linked is fine, if it is a non VVT- engine.
 
my engine has 60hp (44kw), no WT
188A4.000
The panda 1.2 has at least 3 different cam pulleys fitted

1 Original keyed fixed with a bolt and with timing marks

2 A rare none keyed fixed with a T55 timed with locking tools

3 VVT fixed with a T55 and timed with locking tools

You can still use timing marks on engines 2 and 3 but you have to make your own

When using the crank locking on engines 2 and 3 the pistons are all set half way down
 
Hi, I swap my timing belt some 4000km ago.
Since its newer engine, timing marks are not the same as on old engines, so most of internet pictures are not aplicable...

Basically, I matched lines on Dayco belt selected by catalog, with marks on my upper and lower polleys.

I am wandering from then if I did correctly, looks to me that car is a tiny less powerful.

Everything else is really good, idling is perfect, no engine errors... Engine is running smoothly...

Is there any way to confirm that timing is setup correctly without to disassemble all over again?

If one teeth is missed, what can be expected on this engine?
maybe the old slightly stretched belt gave you a more illegal arrangement for pollution requirements and was more powerful and the newer belt brought you back to the legal less powerful car?

:)
 
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That is logical idea, I still have old belt.
I can measure my old belt, but I am not sure what are factory measures so I can compare, that will surely bring some additional data....
 
I bought new Dayco KTB466 belt, per catalogue, for my engine, half year ago.
I did some googling, and I find two alternative to this one with dimensions.

BOSCH 1 987 948 943​

MEYLE 251 049 0045​


Both of them with dimensions:

Number of Teeth:129
Length [mm]:1032
Width [mm]:22



I will measure my OEM belt, and that will give some additional light on this :)
 
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Size of old belt is 1033mm, after 55K km, so basically the same, 1mm difference.
 
Sorry for doubled post, here above is comparation of my pre and post status.

On upper pictures You can see upper pulley, on bottom pictures lower pulley.

Left is Factory setting (55k km), Right is mu new setting.

I try to draw some lines and circles to point to some markers on casting, aligned with markers on pulleys
 
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