Thatās makes sense, the previous owner an old man, if you go through Mot history looks like he was literally going only church and shoppingā¦
For some reason there is an negative value in 2012 for some reason
Technical Punto 1.2 8v 2003 gentle misfiring/ shaking HELP š«š«
- Thread starter Msyogi
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Technical Punto 1.2 8v 2003 gentle misfiring/ shaking HELP š«š«
For some reason there is an negative value in 2012 for some reason
Btw what exactly is an āItalian tuneā? Lool
The only thing I thinking is driving up to high rpms?
Cornish Ian
Member
Iām surprised you havenāt heard that one. Yes drive it hard for a while which may help dislodge any carbon that may have accumulated. āDrive it like you stole it ā is another
Haven't read all the comments but I see you've changed your spark plugs, leads and coils. May be obvious and I'm not questioning your mechanical skills but did you place the leads up correctly to the correct coils? The shaking of the engine from what I've seen is usually a wrong position of the leads. Or maybe they're not in enough?
I had this problem prior and the lead had a small slit somewhere and the electricity was touching the body which caused the car to misfire and fluctuate acceleration. Swapping them out I had noticed a similar shake you're describing and when testing out the different coils, it seemed to have fixed it.
I had this problem prior and the lead had a small slit somewhere and the electricity was touching the body which caused the car to misfire and fluctuate acceleration. Swapping them out I had noticed a similar shake you're describing and when testing out the different coils, it seemed to have fixed it.
Hi, its ok pall even small idea/ advice can lead to victory lol but unfortunately I checked that 3 times already, I think I will just give up on this
mysterious thing and there is no answer for that issue. Iām going to wait for next two weeks, eventually replace timing, belts and water pump and see how it goes. Also going to flush the engine. 
Next update:
I done engine flush yesterday, and today I spotted knocking sound when engine is fully warm
The question is, is that because of wrong oil or flushing engine? What you guys recon?
Thatās the oil I bought:
I done engine flush yesterday, and today I spotted knocking sound when engine is fully warm
The question is, is that because of wrong oil or flushing engine? What you guys recon?
Thatās the oil I bought:
If I recall, a similar post posted a video portraying this exact sound, yours sounds quite similar but more clappy. But in the post I recall someone saying this is a normal sound. I think I too have a similar sound, although I can't say it's normal because in my opinion it sounds like something isn't right, but mines gone 20k miles and hasn't worsened in sound or performance. But that doesn't mean something isn't wrong.
If you do look into it and find something let us know
The sounds from the video below may or may not sound exactly the same, you just kind of have to sense them out, but again my hearing might be telling me something different.
@jonik has a similar video, you can hear the exact same sound (faintly as his engines loud)
Similar to this (qualities poorer so the sound is harder to listen out to and just faint over the other sound he's facing)
In comparison:
This is what sounds like you definitely would have a problem:
If you do look into it and find something let us know
The sounds from the video below may or may not sound exactly the same, you just kind of have to sense them out, but again my hearing might be telling me something different.
@jonik has a similar video, you can hear the exact same sound (faintly as his engines loud)
Similar to this (qualities poorer so the sound is harder to listen out to and just faint over the other sound he's facing)
In comparison:
This is what sounds like you definitely would have a problem:
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All what I can do now really is keep it drive it and just watch whatās going to happen. Fresh oil, lvl is on the top. What worry my abit is my mate told me I used wrong oil(that helix from anbov )apparently, I think itās the right one but I might be wrong. And even if itās not thick enough that Lucas stuff Iāll add it should make it thicker anyway isnāt?
Regarding the oil, 5w-40 is what I think was recommended in the manual (not sure, don't quote me on it) but 10w-40 is fine as well. Whether it's fully synthetic or semi synthetic that is fine as well.
Regarding the Lucas stuff, I don't know. I've watched a few videos on the flushing of the engine and additional additives people place into their engine, theres many that do help, and some that don't.
I believe what you'll be doing is just changing it from a 10w-40 to whatever is the next thickest.
To quote someone from another post:
"Well actually i use 5W-40 oil. Since this oil is a bit thinner in the winter."
- Something to remember now we're turning into icebergs in the UK
"Also 5W-40 is a fully synthetic oil. 10W-40 is often semi-mineral, 15W-40 is pure mineral oil. Syntethic oils have some better performance, but are also more expensive."
and lastly:
"All 8v FIAT FIREs, although they used to recommend 15/40 before 10/40 became common."
It was apparently recommended in the past to use 15/40, but 10/40 is fine.
The choice is yours really, not sure if there would be any bad effects if you did or didn't use it
Regarding the Lucas stuff, I don't know. I've watched a few videos on the flushing of the engine and additional additives people place into their engine, theres many that do help, and some that don't.
I believe what you'll be doing is just changing it from a 10w-40 to whatever is the next thickest.
To quote someone from another post:
"Well actually i use 5W-40 oil. Since this oil is a bit thinner in the winter."
- Something to remember now we're turning into icebergs in the UK
"Also 5W-40 is a fully synthetic oil. 10W-40 is often semi-mineral, 15W-40 is pure mineral oil. Syntethic oils have some better performance, but are also more expensive."
and lastly:
"All 8v FIAT FIREs, although they used to recommend 15/40 before 10/40 became common."
It was apparently recommended in the past to use 15/40, but 10/40 is fine.
The choice is yours really, not sure if there would be any bad effects if you did or didn't use it
We use that in our knackered tractors and dumper, no way would I stick it in a daily driver, especially not in winterā¦itās so gloopy it doesnāt circulate till very warm which, if you want an additive to work, you want to make it work from start
So you recommend to drain it and refill with just oil? To be honest the guy from car parts shop told me to add whole bottle at once so if engine need 2.8l oil minus 1 liter of that Lucas stuff I added there is only 1.8 liter of oil and rest is that Lucas stuff. Itās sticky as hellā¦
Itās only knocking when itās warm properly tho
Iād drain all the oil and filter, put engine flush through it, refill with correct oilā¦if you want to stick an additive in then pick one that works throughout the temperature range or is recommended for cold starts (as in environment)
We use the lucas stuff in big old tired engines, we also use their hydraulic conditioning/leak fix stuff as, as you know, farmers like to get every last value out of something, but only if it doesnāt cost a kidney
We use the lucas stuff in big old tired engines, we also use their hydraulic conditioning/leak fix stuff as, as you know, farmers like to get every last value out of something, but only if it doesnāt cost a kidney
This engine always click like that watch any video on YouTube and you will notice the sound it's normal just use good oil like liqui Moly and add LIQUI MOLY Cera Tec on it, the engine will be smoother.
Mate maybe Iām not a car mechanic but in any car sound like that is not normal. For me thatās sounds a bit like bottom end bearings getting loose?
And as I know that shell helix h7 is not bad at allā¦
Maybe tomorrow will try to flush everything again drain it and add just fresh oil itself.
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Tappets.
Give it a good thrash.
I put the cheapest 10w40 on my car.
Give it a good thrash.
I put the cheapest 10w40 on my car.
Well basically long story short I already checked valves clearanceā¦ and everything was up to specs but that was about two weeks ago and I done engine flush just two days ago, can that affect tappets??
Btw that was the reason I done the engine flush:
Attachments
Engine flush ?
Too late
But I wouldnāt
Any reasonable oil is fine in the 1.2 8v pre vvt itās not too fussy
Normally a rattling or knocking after changing something is down to something loose, fingers crossed itās just something simple like the air box is loose
Whatās it sound like with the aux belt off
Whatās it sound like from under the car
Can you explain why you wouldnāt?
Itās definitely not air box or any other of so obvious things I already checked all the simple stuff, for me itās coming from oil sump and itās only when the car is completely warmed up. When engine itās cold nothing at all. So I thought maybe oil should be thicker??
Any suggestions very much welcome guys!
Where the head bolts are is covered in carbon deposits
There also a lot of varnish
You donāt want it breaking loose and clogging the tiny oil passages
I mean the Fiat FIRE 8v engine sounds like that in most youtube videos - My old engine was tapping like that for a long time until the bad oil killed it, i bought the new engine and it was very smooth, after flushing it the sound of the engine became harsher but it works fine, i don't recommend flushing this engine but its your choice though.
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