Technical Panda fault codes: P0504, P0300, P0302, P0303. With the latter 3 saying temp too high

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Technical Panda fault codes: P0504, P0300, P0302, P0303. With the latter 3 saying temp too high

Maybe there's a sticky injector; you could try a fuel additive (not cheap, but my experience is that it does enhance things generally)? As stated, its all guess work based on your descriptions. Fault codes indicate there is something wrong, not the root cause, so, as mentioned, a methodical approach is required to eliminate the functional parts and isolate the failure.

ECU issues are often blamed (a bit of a cop out) but are rarely the case, in my experience.
That’s interesting, thank you. I think this is going to take a while to get to the bottom of it.
 
It then went onto an electrical car place and he seemed to think that the fault wouldn’t be intermittent if it were the spark plugs (I think that’s what he said anyway). This is so difficult.

He's wrong. Life expired or faulty plugs will give you random codes like the ones you are experiencing.
 
I don’t often stop by post 2012 section

P0302 and P0303
Misfire on two adjacent cylinder (2 and 3)

3 different coil packs and leads still the same and then it goes away itself.

My first port of call would have been a visual inspection the MAP sensor and a compression test.

But that was before the heavy steering

Has P0504 brake switch come back Has this been fixed ?

I doubt anything has been fixed and in my experience leaving thing makes it harder to diagnose latter on

These engines will start on 2 cylinders. It will shake badly. You stated that it was sometime before you could start the car. Is that it would not start at all or was it just not drivable ?

Steering heavy. Is the red light on the dash. With the car stationary can you move the steering wheel. Does the city light come on if you press the button ?

temp too high ?​

 
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I don’t often stop by post 2012 section

P0302 and P0303
Misfire on two adjacent cylinder (2 and 3)

3 different coil packs and leads still the same and then it goes away itself.

My first port of call would have been a visual inspection the MAP sensor and a compression test.

But that was before the heavy steering

Has P0504 brake switch come back Has this been fixed ?

I doubt anything has been fixed and in my experience leaving thing makes it harder to diagnose latter on

These engines will start on 2 cylinders. It will shake badly. You stated that it was sometime before you could start the car. Is that it would not start at all or was it just not drivable ?

Steering heavy. Is the red light on the dash. With the car stationary can you move the steering wheel. Does the city light come on if you press the button ?

temp too high ?​

Hi, I’ve only just notice that you reposted my post. Thank you for your help.

I’ve got no idea re P0504 as this was not mentioned by the electrical place. I was waiting for them to say that they had found the fault and then mention this separate code, but we didn’t get to that point, and the previous garage was unaware of this code. The AA flagged it up, so the P0504 was a bit of a shock to me as it had not been mentioned previously. Re the temp too high, the temp on the dash has been ok, but I will look to see what it is when it next plays up. The AA thought that it was that this indicated that it was an electrical fault.

Why does leaving things make it harder to diagnose later on? Is it because it can lead to more things going wrong down the line I assume? I’m not sure what else I can do where I’ve taken into places and they can’t get to the bottom of it.

I can’t start it or do anything when that symbol is there.

There are no lights on when it doesn’t get the warning symbol. Just feels heavy and the garage said that it was sluggish. I’m not sure about the steering or the city light - re the latter if I press it is there any indication that it is engaged? Only I’ve pressed it before and noticed no difference and it showed no indication that it was on.

There have been a few times when I’ve turned the ignition key and I haven’t liked the sound of the engine.
 
He's wrong. Life expired or faulty plugs will give you random codes like the ones you are experiencing.
The latest garage said that if it were the spark plugs they would get worse over time so the problem would get worse and not be intermittent. I did ask the previous garage for new plugs and they just said that they would have a look at them.
 
Hi, I’ve only just notice that you reposted my post. Thank you for your help.

I’ve got no idea re P0504 as this was not mentioned by the electrical place. I was waiting for them to say that they had found the fault and then mention this separate code, but we didn’t get to that point, and the previous garage was unaware of this code. The AA flagged it up, so the P0504 was a bit of a shock to me as it had not been mentioned previously. Re the temp too high, the temp on the dash has been ok, but I will look to see what it is when it next plays up. The AA thought that it was that this indicated that it was an electrical fault.

Why does leaving things make it harder to diagnose later on? Is it because it can lead to more things going wrong down the line I assume? I’m not sure what else I can do where I’ve taken into places and they can’t get to the bottom of it.

I can’t start it or do anything when that symbol is there.

There are no lights on when it doesn’t get the warning symbol. Just feels heavy and the garage said that it was sluggish. I’m not sure about the steering or the city light - re the latter if I press it is there any indication that it is engaged? Only I’ve pressed it before and noticed no difference and it showed no indication that it was on.

There have been a few times when I’ve turned the ignition key and I haven’t liked the sound of the engine.
 

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This is a video of what my engine last sounded like after the last fault code had been there (when I was able to start it after 40 minutes).
 
pressing city should put a light on the dash

Pressing should be easily noticeable turning the steering wheel while stationary

Leaving a fault like P0300? Can lead to cylinder, piston and CAT damage.

Once detected not such a problem as the engine computer will cut the injector/s leaving you running in 3 or 2 cylinders, but before the neat petrol will be washing the oil from bore and dumping petrol into the catalytic converter.

99% of the time faults that appear at the same time are connected. However if no fixed properly any you will not know if new symptoms, error codes are connected or new which can lead to much wasted time going round in circles

Temp too high is a red herring

P030? Are just telling you a misfire had been detecting. The scan tool is just reporting it strangely
 
Sounds like it’s only running on 2 cylinders to me ?

Which matches the codes

I can tell better from the exhaust sound at the back.

You get a definite regular puff puff
 
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Sounds like it’s only running on 2 cylinders to me ?

I can tell better from the exhaust sound at the back.

You get a definite regular puff puff
I wondered that re only running on two cylinders with regards to the sound that it was making.

I won’t be able to video the sound at the back until it happens again.

I’m at a complete loss with what to do as the mechanical and electrical garage have no idea. I just don’t know what to do.
 
He's wrong. Life expired or faulty plugs will give you random codes like the ones you are experiencing.
It’s a shame it intermittent

I would have at least swapped the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3 for 1 and 4

Then when the fault codes are next read if

P0302 and P0303 changed to P0301 and P0304 we would have an answer. And if the codes stayed the same we would know what it’s not

As it is we will be none the wiser.
 
pressing city should put a light on the dash

Pressing should be easily noticeable turning the steering wheel while stationary

Leaving a fault like P0300? Can lead to cylinder, piston and CAT damage.

Once detected not such a problem as the engine computer will cut the injector/s leaving you running in 3 or 2 cylinders, but before the neat petrol will be washing the oil from bore and dumping petrol into the catalytic converter.

99% of the time faults that appear at the same time are connected. However if no fixed properly any you will not know if new symptoms, error codes are connected or new which can lead to much wasted time going round in circles

Temp too high is a red herring

P030? Are just telling you a misfire had been detecting. The scan tool is just reporting it strangely
P.s. city came on (I was only on my driveway), but it indicated that it had
 
It’s a shame it intermittent

I would have at least swapped the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3 for 1 and 4

Then when the fault codes are next read if

P0302 and P0303 changed to P0301 and P0304 we would have an answer. And if the codes stayed the same we would know what it’s not

As it is we will be none the wiser.
The trouble is is that it won’t be me doing it so it would be a case of me telling the garage that. They wanted to see it in action when it was playing up as they thought it would be easier to diagnose.
 
Hi again,

Pushing the City button ... it should put CITY ( in yellow text) on the dashboard

Bottom left If I remember correctly..

How many miles have you driven in this Panda?, that will help us gauge what might..or cannot.. be a factor here :)
How many miles since I’ve had it or when it plays up?
 
Hi again,

The coolant level SHOULD never drop..

So If you have needed to top.up periodically.. that isnt good

Where abouts in 'the middle of nowhere' are you based?

Charlie - near the M4
Hi Charlie, some must evaporate though, but what percentage 0.25 every few months? I must admit I was surprised at low it had got, although it wasn’t below the minimum level.
 
It’s a shame it intermittent

I would have at least swapped the plugs from cylinders 2 and 3 for 1 and 4

Then when the fault codes are next read if

P0302 and P0303 changed to P0301 and P0304 we would have an answer. And if the codes stayed the same we would know what it’s not

As it is we will be none the wiser.
I don’t really know what tests the electrical garage did. All I know is that they took the coil pack back in a tightened up the pins.
 
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