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General Panda engine dies intermittently/won't start

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General Panda engine dies intermittently/won't start

The ignition module in the distributor in the Panda (and Uno ) is prone to causing problems, but it is commonly a complete cut out when hot - and then it will work after cooling down for a while.

....something to consider, if you have no spark but only if its a Magnetti Marelli distributor (sorry you've not said if it's a 4x4 or not)

It would help if you said your exact year/model then we could rule a few things out and stop having to randomly come up with stuff about points/electronic ingition if we knew what you actally had

Jim
 
Last edited:
e505jpy said:
The ignition module in the distributor in the Panda (and Uno ) is prone to causing problems, but it is commonly a complete cut out when hot - and then it will work after cooling down for a while.

....something to consider, if you have no spark but only if its a Magnetti Marelli distributor (sorry you've not said if it's a 4x4 or not)

It would help if you said your exact year/model then we could rule a few things out and stop having to randomly come up with stuff about points/electronic ingition if we knew what you actally had

Jim
Click to expand...

Ooops :eek:

AFAIK, our car is the 1986 Fiat Panda 1000 Selecta (?) with the 999cc FIRE engine :)
 
Beancounter said:
Rotor arm? Wassat? :confused:

I'd hope not, the dizzy cap was replaced three weeks ago and the HT leads two weeks before that :(
Click to expand...

Sorry, I didnt spot any thing about you having replaced the dizzy cap & leads in the thread. Would say though, your not doing yourself any favours if you replaced the dizzy cap but not the rotor arm (black or terracotta coloured piece of plastic with metal strip half moon edge on top - push fit onto the top of the dizzy spindle) would change that too! Good Luck :)

Ahhh... Auto - not familiar with the Panda but perhaps an inhibitor switch on the gearbox thats faulty? Help required here from the Panda boys as my experience limited on FIRE engines, somehow assumed 903 ohv unit...
 
Last edited:
Unless your Panda is 4x4, or has been modified by a previous owner, a 1986 car will have a set of points (and condenser) inside your distributor, rather than the electronics.

These are awkward to replace, and expensive for what they are.
If you do the trick with the scribed line across where the body of the distributor and the cylinder head meet, you can take the distributor off it you need to - which can hekp to see what you're doing - and put it back in much the same position.

ISTR the vacuum advance unit needs to come off as well when you do the points (take great care as they break where they clip onto the base).

All in all a fiddly, messy job - which is why it gets ignored until you can't adjust the gap anymore (small hex key down a hole in the body - you can adjust dwell while it's running if you have access to a meter

As you've probably discovered by now the distributor dismantles from the top down to get at the points (assuming they need changing).

Lack of spark with a set of points shouldn't be too difficult to get to the bottom of, as long as it will stay faulty:

measure +12 on supply to the coil + with ignition "on"
(ignition switch or wiring)

check for switching on the other coil lead when cranking the engine.
(bad points or condenser or earthing in the distributor)
(you will need to check with respect to +12 if the coil is shot to see the switching as the points provide a switched earth, if the coil primary is OK you will see switching with respect to either +12 or earth)

check for spark from the coil HT lead.
(bad coil or lead)

check for sparks on each plug lead.
(bad distributor cap, or rotor arm, or leads, or plugs)

you could do the low voltage checks with a 6 watt bulb.

you could check the HT with a spare spark plug, but take care with the HT, it hurts.

those checks should localise the problem.

(From the Archives)


Jim
 
e505jpy said:
Unless your Panda is 4x4, or has been modified by a previous owner, a 1986 car will have a set of points (and condenser) inside your distributor, rather than the electronics.

These are awkward to replace, and expensive for what they are.
If you do the trick with the scribed line across where the body of the distributor and the cylinder head meet, you can take the distributor off it you need to - which can hekp to see what you're doing - and put it back in much the same position.

ISTR the vacuum advance unit needs to come off as well when you do the points (take great care as they break where they clip onto the base).

All in all a fiddly, messy job - which is why it gets ignored until you can't adjust the gap anymore (small hex key down a hole in the body - you can adjust dwell while it's running if you have access to a meter

As you've probably discovered by now the distributor dismantles from the top down to get at the points (assuming they need changing).

Lack of spark with a set of points shouldn't be too difficult to get to the bottom of, as long as it will stay faulty:

measure +12 on supply to the coil + with ignition "on"
(ignition switch or wiring)

check for switching on the other coil lead when cranking the engine.
(bad points or condenser or earthing in the distributor)
(you will need to check with respect to +12 if the coil is shot to see the switching as the points provide a switched earth, if the coil primary is OK you will see switching with respect to either +12 or earth)

check for spark from the coil HT lead.
(bad coil or lead)

check for sparks on each plug lead.
(bad distributor cap, or rotor arm, or leads, or plugs)

you could do the low voltage checks with a 6 watt bulb.

you could check the HT with a spare spark plug, but take care with the HT, it hurts.

those checks should localise the problem.

(From the Archives)


Jim
Click to expand...

Jeez, that's some checklist :eek: :eek: :D

I can check most things, however, checking the points seems a bit outside my comfort zone - a job for the Wife then :)

christopher watson said:
You could try getting in touch with pertronix, and given them the make and model of your dizzy, and see if they have a kit for it.
Click to expand...

What 'kind of' kit am I looking for? :confused: :)
 
The kit that Pertronix does is a conversion kit called an ignitor, which converts the distributor to electronic ignition. It does away with points and condensors, so you get better starting, and better fuel consumption. I have bought a kit for my Mercedes, and have ordered a flamethrower coil (doesnt actually throw flames :)).

edit - here is the link again www.pertronix.com
 
I had a similar problem with my 4x4, but she's got the weber carb. the engine would kinda splutter under full throttle but run fine idling or vise versa depending on which jet was blocked i thought, and i did find it was the jets blocking due to crap being sent into the carb from the rocker cover thingy (sorry not to be very technical, not sure what its called!) The pipe that comes from out of the rocker cover on the 965cc engine and feeds into the air box. Anyway, i put a small filter inside the airbox and never had the trouble again! I know its a different engine but might have some baring mayb,
best of luck

Si
 
I had a similar problem with my 4x4, but she's got the weber carb. the engine would kinda splutter under full throttle but run fine idling or vise versa depending on which jet was blocked i thought, and i did find it was the jets blocking due to crap being sent into the carb from the rocker cover thingy (sorry not to be very technical, not sure what its called!) The pipe that comes from out of the rocker cover on the 965cc engine and feeds into the air box. Anyway, i put a small filter inside the airbox where this pipe fed in and never had the trouble again! I know its a different engine but might have some baring mayb,
best of luck

Si
 
christopher watson said:
The kit that Pertronix does is a conversion kit called an ignitor, which converts the distributor to electronic ignition. It does away with points and condensors, so you get better starting, and better fuel consumption. I have bought a kit for my Mercedes, and have ordered a flamethrower coil (doesnt actually throw flames :)).

edit - here is the link again www.pertronix.com
Click to expand...

Thanks Christopher :)

I've had a look on their website, but am unsure as to the correct product. Any idea on proces for one of these units?

Cheers :)

pandamonius_maximus said:
I had a similar problem with my 4x4, but she's got the weber carb. the engine would kinda splutter under full throttle but run fine idling or vise versa depending on which jet was blocked i thought, and i did find it was the jets blocking due to crap being sent into the carb from the rocker cover thingy (sorry not to be very technical, not sure what its called!) The pipe that comes from out of the rocker cover on the 965cc engine and feeds into the air box. Anyway, i put a small filter inside the airbox and never had the trouble again! I know its a different engine but might have some baring mayb,
best of luck

Si
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, will have a look at that too :)
 
christopher watson said:
You will have to email them with details of your type of distributor.
Click to expand...

Coolio, I'll get it sorted :)

Any a positive note, a mate (previous owner of said Panda) came round last night and managed to start it :D Turned it over several times, adjusted the idle and we then took it on a test drive for about twenty miles - all seemed good then (y)

Fingers crossed he fires up when we get home tonight :)

Apparently my mate only sprayed some easy start into the airbox and within about ten seconds the engine burst into life :worship: :D
 
I'm still getting used to (starting) my Panda, this morning she started with no choke! (and tonight too) - then I just open up the choke a little. I am too used to winter starting which seems easier!

A bit spluttery until warm then very smooth. A service is on the very near horizon though.
 
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