HI, i'm looking at getting a Panda 4x4. Currently living in the Cairngorms in Scotland and have just moved to a rural location with a couple of hills that I have to tackle to get me onto the A9 to get me to Aviemore for work. I know its summer now but thinking of the coming winter so going to get one now. Any sweet spots for what version/engine/year I should be looking for? My budget is around the 3k mark, Thanks all.
General Panda 4x4 which one for 3k
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General Panda 4x4 which one for 3k
Finding a 4x4 Panda at that price point that's actually worth buying will be challenging. A quick look at the usual websites suggests that, in this market, you'll be looking at something 12+ yrs old with >100k miles. There are two major 4x4 specific things to watch out for: 1. Rear subframe; specific to this model, prone to MOT-failing corrosion, and practically unobtainable in the UK; replacing it, even if you could find one, will likely cost as much as you're paying for the car. 2. Propshaft, in particular the centre bearing and viscous coupling; both are known to give trouble at high mileages and are not easy to fix cheaply - if it does fail, many folks with 4x4's of this age just remove the propshaft and use it as a 2WD car.
Engine wise, I'd stick with the 1.2 petrol; high mileage diesels are prone to camchain breakage and if it does break, it'll write off the car unless you have a lot of skill and do the work yourself. You'll also avoid the all-too common older diesel issues with carbon buildup; some at those sort of mileages have engines which basically are a lump of coal.
What I'd do with that budget is to spend £2500 on a 2WD Panda and put the spare £500 into a second set of wheels with winter tyres. Even in 2WD form, they're surprisingly capable in the snow on decent rubber.
Engine wise, I'd stick with the 1.2 petrol; high mileage diesels are prone to camchain breakage and if it does break, it'll write off the car unless you have a lot of skill and do the work yourself. You'll also avoid the all-too common older diesel issues with carbon buildup; some at those sort of mileages have engines which basically are a lump of coal.
What I'd do with that budget is to spend £2500 on a 2WD Panda and put the spare £500 into a second set of wheels with winter tyres. Even in 2WD form, they're surprisingly capable in the snow on decent rubber.
Bonefish Blues
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Serious answer. At your budget, I'd buy one of these (or its SX4 sister, being careful to ensure that the latter was a 4x4 version. I think there were some of the very late Sedicis that were fwd too, but don't quote me on that):
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I had one and they really are astonishingly capable - Vitara underpinnings with locking diff. All Seasons tyres and job jobbed. The petrol is the pick, btw.
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I had one and they really are astonishingly capable - Vitara underpinnings with locking diff. All Seasons tyres and job jobbed. The petrol is the pick, btw.
A 4x4 panda of this age and budget is likely to require a lot of work
You don't say whether you are handy with spanners
You can get lucky and find a car with something wrong that someone just wants to get rid of. But be aware nearly everything is unique, take the 1.2 different engine computer, camshafts and throttle body just for starters,
Everything as per @jrkitching
Plus
early 4x4 used a viscous coupling, it will almost. Certainly be past it's best, getting it refurbished is almost impossible , new is nearly a grand, it is possible to get them from abroad but still not cheap when you include postage
In deep snow drifts, you aren't going anywhere as they only have approx 6 inch of ground clearance
You don't say whether you are handy with spanners
You can get lucky and find a car with something wrong that someone just wants to get rid of. But be aware nearly everything is unique, take the 1.2 different engine computer, camshafts and throttle body just for starters,
Everything as per @jrkitching
Plus
early 4x4 used a viscous coupling, it will almost. Certainly be past it's best, getting it refurbished is almost impossible , new is nearly a grand, it is possible to get them from abroad but still not cheap when you include postage
In deep snow drifts, you aren't going anywhere as they only have approx 6 inch of ground clearance
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As above for all those advising, the centre bearing is an easy and cheap job, some have experienced difficulty splitting the propshaft, but mine separated easily with a sliding hammer…about a 45min job with splitting/bearing fitting taking as long as removing and reinstalling the prop
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Should say, having both the petrol and the diesel cross, Center bearing done at 80k miles…cross hasn’t needed one (yet)
The petrol is now a farm car with over 150k on the clock and it’s rear top half removed.
The cross has been passed onto daughter and still performing admirably…on this, under very heavy slippage and ‘faux’ diff lock, it can sometimes confuse the drive/locking and a message will flash up ‘difflock unavailable’ along with ‘abs and hill-holder unavailable’. It’s very temporary and just needs a few minutes to cool/calm down.
Both are surprisingly capable, even in a foot of snow, if you keep momentum. If you lose that, it’s only a matter of reversing out and either continuing forward or retreating. But then, if it’s like that on the roads, you really shouldn’t be travelling, unless it’s for fun
The petrol is now a farm car with over 150k on the clock and it’s rear top half removed.
The cross has been passed onto daughter and still performing admirably…on this, under very heavy slippage and ‘faux’ diff lock, it can sometimes confuse the drive/locking and a message will flash up ‘difflock unavailable’ along with ‘abs and hill-holder unavailable’. It’s very temporary and just needs a few minutes to cool/calm down.
Both are surprisingly capable, even in a foot of snow, if you keep momentum. If you lose that, it’s only a matter of reversing out and either continuing forward or retreating. But then, if it’s like that on the roads, you really shouldn’t be travelling, unless it’s for fun
Correct
I have post pictures a few times but people still seem to struggle. It's not obvious where the split is
Unfortunately not everybody has the knowledge or equpment, cheap cars can be expensive to run if you can't do your own spannering
Unfortunately not all garages are capable someone on here was told the propshaft didn't split by a garage
expect a £150 plus bill for someone to do it for you
I bought a cheap Panda 4x4 in March. It was £1100, which was well under half the price of the next cheapest anywhere in the country.
Other than one small hole in the sill (jacked incorrectly) the body is fine, if a little shabby. The subframes are solid, but not particularly pretty, so they’ll probably get sprayed with ACF 50 every time it’s on a ramp.
however, I’ve already spent more on it than it cost - discs and pads all round, thermostat, aircon re-gas, clutch slave, front shocks, droplinks, new sump, full service and I’ve just fitted a new viscous coupling to fix the knackered old one.
I was working on the basis that even a £3,000 car could still need a grand’s worth of work, so I thought I might as well start with something really cheap.
I’ll probably be selling it soon, as the little Fiat has got under my skin and I rather fancy a later Cross TwinAir. Let me know if you’re interested…. You probably won’t find another that’s as mechanically sound and you’ll struggle to find a non-cross with aircon.
Other than one small hole in the sill (jacked incorrectly) the body is fine, if a little shabby. The subframes are solid, but not particularly pretty, so they’ll probably get sprayed with ACF 50 every time it’s on a ramp.
however, I’ve already spent more on it than it cost - discs and pads all round, thermostat, aircon re-gas, clutch slave, front shocks, droplinks, new sump, full service and I’ve just fitted a new viscous coupling to fix the knackered old one.
I was working on the basis that even a £3,000 car could still need a grand’s worth of work, so I thought I might as well start with something really cheap.
I’ll probably be selling it soon, as the little Fiat has got under my skin and I rather fancy a later Cross TwinAir. Let me know if you’re interested…. You probably won’t find another that’s as mechanically sound and you’ll struggle to find a non-cross with aircon.
I very nearly bought a 2010 Panda Cross, advertised at £1900, and on ~80k miles
1.3multijet diesel.
The story was it was a university student’s car but the alternator broke when at home over Easter, she needed a car urgently so bought a new one and left it with their parents who had gotten a new alternator fitted and we’re now selling it.
Dirty interior one of the cream exterior trims had come off but otherwise not a bad little car, talked myself out of it as I really don’t need 3 cars right now. But there are bargains to be had
1.3multijet diesel.
The story was it was a university student’s car but the alternator broke when at home over Easter, she needed a car urgently so bought a new one and left it with their parents who had gotten a new alternator fitted and we’re now selling it.
Dirty interior one of the cream exterior trims had come off but otherwise not a bad little car, talked myself out of it as I really don’t need 3 cars right now. But there are bargains to be had
I think some garages are under the impression that, as Fiat sell the prop as a complete unit, they don’t realise the bearing can be sourced individually.
I think even a complete novice could do the bearing, it’s confidence that needs bolstering.
Yes, wehn I split it it was not immediately obvious until the splines came fully into view. I did have the slide hammer ‘jaw-claw’ someways from the bearing so wasn’t really pay attention…probably a little too overconfident
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I have a Multijet (not 4x4) and I love the engine. I would find a Panda Cross and factor in the cost of new cam chain rockers and lifters. Parts work out about £250, or about £100 to £130 if you just do the cam chain. It's then sorted for another 10,000 miles.
I would also fit a "standard" front bumper and headlights. The parts are cheap and easily repaired. The Cross front bumper etc will be absolutely silly money and will right-off the car if significantly damaged. If it's like the 100HP, the material is brittle and shatters with a relatively small impact.
I would also fit a "standard" front bumper and headlights. The parts are cheap and easily repaired. The Cross front bumper etc will be absolutely silly money and will right-off the car if significantly damaged. If it's like the 100HP, the material is brittle and shatters with a relatively small impact.
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I should have said, "New timing chain = sorted for 100,000 miles". Oops.
So I've potentially found a little Panda 4x4, its 2010 with 62k on the clock and a Petrol 1.2. New propshaft fitted last MOT and the sub frame has been checked and cleaned. Has been owned by a lady to get up and down here Glen in Scotland. The price is 3k and will be collecting the car tomorrow so fingers crossed.
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Get the back subframe fully treated with a deep penetrating anti rust metal preserver. Waxoyl is a waste of money - it dries up. I would seriously consider having the fixed frame measured up for a replacement as new parts are non-existent.
