Was starting yesterday! And engine turns over, seems to be plenty of power, I have checked HT leads and all spark plugs, first impression I thought it was flooded, but have dismissed this now and now thinking low voltage, so charging battery fully up, one thing I put the OBD reader in comes up with 1 fault code, but unreadable, so a little worried! Any known problems with sudden unknown failed start up with these Panda's I should know? It's a 1.2 eco 2009 petrol Just stabbing in the dark really on this one, has me baffled at moment? I live in hope!
Technical Panda 2009 (P) wont start?!
- Thread starter jonathan3
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Panda 2009 (P) wont start?!
Hi, if you can get a friend to come take a look who might be able to help you describe the noises / area where the problem is then I'd be more than happy to look up your issue on Fiat's system which will provide you with a full list of steps to take to find and fix the problem without overlooking anything
Think it's the coded fob and ECU did not notice the lock symbol on the dash before, fob flashes in ignition for under a minute then nothing happens, think it says somewhere this can be triggered by low voltage in the service manual? On the OBD reader the code is U1600 DTC Definition not found. I might have to contact the dealership there's something wrong here electrically, the car thinks it's being stolen! Never had this problem before? Only noises is an engine rotating and not catching with the ignition when I try to start it and sometimes the doors try to lock and unlock themselves, not looking good! Unless any one knows of any procedure?
Hi,
remove cars battery negative lead,
check battery voltage..if less that 12 Volts,
recharge / use another battery, and try again,
the U1600 is car didn't recgnise key..,
Charlie
I have started the car, but only by going through the emergency procedure of flashing warning lights to match the key code and is very temporary, I have 2 other keys, but 1 has not been cut yet, but is coded the other spare key only opens doors! I might try a new battery in the fob? But it is looking like going to the dealer un-fortunately!
- Joined
- May 21, 2014
- Messages
- 313
- Points
- 77
So you have a coded key that isn't cut?
Hold the handle end touching the ignition area and use your uncoded key to turn the barrel.
I had this before and it was failure of the remote key.its a common thing unfortunately.
Hold the handle end touching the ignition area and use your uncoded key to turn the barrel.
I had this before and it was failure of the remote key.its a common thing unfortunately.
Sorry! Key is cut but not coded! Original key/fob seems to be working now after drying the circuit board and replacing battery, but flashing a lot?! But, starts Car! Not sure it's reliable enough now?
Not sure it's reliable enough now?
Last edited:
Its really common for the Panda remote keys to stop deactivating the immobiliser. The chip for the immobiliser is part and parcel of the remote circuit board. The remote and immobiliser are controlled by the same chip.
unlike the non remote keys that have a sealed transponder chip which is pretty bullet proof in normal use.
If you have already had the remote apart then you will have seen there is narrower part that juts out at the key end of the circuit board. The long grey component that's on that part of the circuit board is the induction coil that the key talks to the car through. 9 times out of ten its this that's the problem. Normally its dry solder joints and just needs to re soldered. Or on occasion the core of the coil cracks and it needs to be replaced.
unlike the non remote keys that have a sealed transponder chip which is pretty bullet proof in normal use.
If you have already had the remote apart then you will have seen there is narrower part that juts out at the key end of the circuit board. The long grey component that's on that part of the circuit board is the induction coil that the key talks to the car through. 9 times out of ten its this that's the problem. Normally its dry solder joints and just needs to re soldered. Or on occasion the core of the coil cracks and it needs to be replaced.
I just took a look again inside the fob, there is a long black component at the end of the circuit board, this must be the grey one you are describing? There is a small amount of corrosion on the resistor components and near the switches, I just gave some heat to the ones that did not look to bad carefully with a soldering iron including the long component which visually seems fine, just re-soldered one side of one switch this has seemed to have done the job the constant flashing of the fob has stopped and the car locking doe's not have a fit anymore! Also the locking symbol on the dash has now disappeared!
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
Last edited:
