General Panda 1.2 recommended oil

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General Panda 1.2 recommended oil

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Nov 6, 2008
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Hi
Checked my oil today and found it needs a top up, fare enough.

Now must it be only fully synthetic oil ? hand book says just synthetic not fully or part.

Any best way to go for oil ? I am not sure what is added or not added to either so any guidance please.

Thanks.
 
Synthetic means exactly what it says.
But ... more important than any discussion about fully or semi synthetic is the frequency of changing the oil.
Regular oil changes are like good insurance. Neglect them and you will eventually pay for it.
 
oil is confusing

full
semi

some have synthetic on there label but don't mention Full or 100% these are in fact a blend and are semi


Which you use is really down to you and your type of driving. Lots of short driving just use semi and change more often. Mostly long journeys use full and extent the oil changes.

Using full and changing the oil at short intervals is the same as pouring money down the drain.

If you are just topping up full or semi makes no difference the mix safely
 
Hi Peter, I go for 10W-40 semi synthetic, and the cheapest I can find:)

Check it meets the required Fiat spec but no point spending silly money on the oil for an engine that makes just 50bhp per litre.

If you regularly thrash a 1200 down the motorway then you might justify full synth but I suspect it's overkill. The 100HP might benefit if you work it hard. But neither have turbos or other stuff that hammers the oil so semi is probably fine. My 1200cc boxer twin bike makes 104HP and that is specced for semi synth. In fact, posh synthetic just gets burnt. It's too thin.
 
Thanks ~ rmjbn1 ~ Sweetsixteen ~ koalar ~ DaveMcT

For your reply's, yes it is confusing, shouldn't be, as my journeys are mostly short few miles only local have gone for the semi oil.

Thanks again for your thoughts.
 
Cars used mostly for short journeys will benefit a lot more from more regular oil changes than they will from fancy high spec oils that only benefit high performance engines.

The book says 10w40 semi synth changed every 12000 miles but it's common sense that a town car used for short journeys will stress its oil harder than one that does longer runs. I would prefer to use a cheap correct spec and change it more often as a dirty oil is bad for the engine regardless how fancy the stuff was when new.
 
Cars used mostly for short journeys will benefit a lot more from more regular oil changes than they will from fancy high spec oils that only benefit high performance engines.

The book says 10w40 semi synth changed every 12000 miles but it's common sense that a town car used for short journeys will stress its oil harder than one that does longer runs. I would prefer to use a cheap correct spec and change it more often as a dirty oil is bad for the engine regardless how fancy the stuff was when new.

Dave pretty much says it all here. Cheap, correct spec oil, changed regularly with a new oil filter every time does just fine for our wee engines.

We have 6 cars in the family 5 of which I look after They cover the spectrum really from our wee 1.2 Panda and daughter in law's 1.4 idsi Jazz, older boy's 1.4 8 valve Punto and younger boy's Astra 1.6 with their relatively simple old normally aspirated port injected petrol engines to our older boy's Kia Rio with it's turbo diesel (driven mostly by his wife) and my Seat Ibiza 1.0 tsi eco with it's highly stressed direct injection turbo petrol engine.

The older cars all trundle along very happily on cheap, but correctly spec'd, oils bought from my local factor (TradeTEC brand) which get changed yearly (under 10.000 miles) except the Astra which is a business car covering about 15/17.000 miles yearly so it gets changed every 6 months (still the TradeTEC though) - always with new filters. The Kia and Ibiza worry me more because of their turbos, which are well known to stress oil. Both are direct injection so have highly stressed fuel pumps and, because they don't inject fuel into their ports are liable to suffer carbon fouling of their inlet systems. I don't have much control over the Kia as it's under this 7 year warranty so gets done by the Kia garage so that if there is a warranty claim things should, hopefully, go smoothly? - I must ask them what oil they are using, probably won't get an informative reply though? - The Ibiza, which is just out of it's warranty, will be getting the best that TPS can supply. (Trade Parts Specialists being my preferred dedicated VAG parts supplier). The Ibiza, being a small capacity, turbo, direct injection petrol engine is potentially the most fragile and will be "spoiled" to a much greater degree than any of the others!

It's worth being aware that many engines now have screen type oil filters which often are not mentioned at all as service items. VVT engines - My boy's Astra, The Punto (which has a Euro 5 engine), My Ibiza just for starters - have screens on the VVT solenoid valves. I don't have experience with the Hydraulic valve system on the Fiat engines but I know there is a screening filter in the feed to the actuators which requires occasional replacement. Of course there is a screen filter on the main pickup in all engine sumps. Frequent oil changes with a fresh filter every time goes a long way to reducing the chances of these filters and smaller oilways from getting blocked up.
 
I agree with the other posters - use the cheapest 10W-40 semi synthetic that meets the spec for the car. Ignore the hype on the front of the container, and look at the small print on the back. Oil is classified by API and for petrol engines is given a grade marking such as API SL or SM etc. The higher up the alphabet, the more modern the spec. and all are backwards compatable, so running a higher spec oil in an older car will do no harm. Current spec is

API/SN

Introduced in October 2010, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.

API/SM[FONT=&quot] For 2010 and older automotive engines[/FONT]

API/SL [FONT=&quot]For 2004 and older automotive engines.[/FONT]


FarNorthPanda hardly uses any oil between services, but gets the occasional topup of a teaspoonful of Lidl 10W-40 semi synthetic and seems to thrive on it
 
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The variator (VVT controller) used on the larger Fiat/Alfa engines was prone to wear. It would still work ok but rattled badly on startup. They needed to be changed with the cam belt, making the job even more expensive. But there was also an oil control valve that opened to shift the variator. That valve would dribble oil into the engine, accelerating variator wear and raising oil consumption. Guess which part almost always got forgotten when doing a cambelt service?

I would expect all cam advance retard/variator/VVT systems to have similar parts so all should be checked at service/replacement times.

The newer 1.2 engines have a variator system so correct spec oil is hugely important.
 
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