Technical Pads and discs? (100hp)

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Technical Pads and discs? (100hp)

Yadash

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Hi guys

Does anyone have a recommendation of what pads and discs to use on the 100hp? I'm looking at the generic types that Euro Car Parts have but if there are any that improve braking performance I'd be up for those.

I may or may not have worn mine out on a road rally. :bang:

Was absoltuely hilarious fun though! Everyone should try one one day, and totally legal :D!

Also a slight minor but I get an occasional squeak from the offside rear wheel, Could it be a stone stuck in the calliper?
 
Also a slight minor but I get an occasional squeak from the offside rear wheel, Could it be a stone stuck in the calliper?

More likely corrosion is causing the one of pads to stick in the reaction frame. Provided you clean everything properly and apply brake grease to the moving parts when fitting the new pads, all should be well.

Pads & discs will always be a compromise; performance pads may work well on the track, but less well round town when the pads are cold. For everyday use, if you're on a budget, I can recommend the Pagid parts from ECP; I've recently fitted these to a 1.2 with no issues.
 
Pads & discs will always be a compromise; performance pads may work well on the track, but less well round town when the pads are cold. For everyday use, if you're on a budget, I can recommend the Pagid parts from ECP; I've recently fitted these to a 1.2 with no issues.

True although Pagid's RS-15 has a higher friction coefficient from cold and works at high temps as well.
I am not sure they do it for the Panda though, I doubt.
 
I use the Brembo disc, and ferodo pads. Works well in both a track and road situation, does produce a lot of brake dust however
 
Thanks for the help guys.

Hope I dont get flamed but I've only changed brake pads on a car once before under the supervision of a Honda technician.

What's the process to doing the Panda's discs and my biggest concern is, what needs lubricating/greasing and what grease do I need.
 
Hi Yadash. Don't worry no one will flame you for not being a mechanic.

I work for ECP and I can vouch the Pagid brake components jrkitching recommended.

As for greasing, copper slip applied to back of pads. And slip the bolts on the caliper carrier.

Follow a YouTube video/grab a second hand Haynes from here or ebay, you'll be fine.

Good luck
Ian
 
Ian,


now that you have declared your interest, what difference will a change in disk make?
Pads yes I understand, more abrasive material the bigger grab, the quicker you stop, in basic terms. Is all the disk do is to manage the heat build up?


In your range what would you recommend for a spirited pilot who does the odd track day, as well as a commute.


What is a reasonable upgrade? and what is just for show?


Sorry to hi-jack, but a guy's gota ask!
 
You're right the disk manages the heat build up. Hence why some disks are vented to increase air flow and heat exchange.

As for the range that ECP offer I'd always go for Textar disks, then Pagid, then Eicher. The Eicher disks are made of inferior materials and have a tendency to warp
 
Pagid for discs everytime for me.
They are coated with something that stops the unworked areas rusting up too quickly (Geomet, whatever that is, but it does work)

For a decent "hot" pad with little dust, go for EBC Greenstuff.

Once the old discs are off, clean the hub face well and apply a thin smear of copperslip or ceramic brake grease (ceramic won't burn with the heat generated by the brakes) to the hub face before fitting the new discs.

It's worth pulling the pins the calipers float on (under the little rubber boots) clean them and grease them up with ceramic brake grease (not copperslip as it's an antiseize and not really a proper lubing grease).

Then threadlock the caliper bolts.
 
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Neil, I am interested in taking the Panda to a trackday as well, where are y ou thinking of going?
I think a tight, more technical track e.g. Cadwell would suit the car well.
I'd like to book something at the end of this month/beginning of next.

Goudrons, I wouldn't touch EBC with a barpole, their compound seems to be hit and miss even though they have supposedly improved it but some batches of pads seem good and others crap.

I used Bluestuff in my FSTi and wasn't very impressed.

I'd rather use Ferodo DS2500 or Pagid RS-15 if they do them for the Panda.
 
Gents,

I have dug about and read your informed comments.
Two things, the devil is in the detail, just slapping things in will not work as well as it should.
We are all stopping a 1000kg Panda which may get up to 105mph across a field of Tarmac on the Isle of Man for instance.
The brakes are different to a standard Panda, so they have been, designed to do a beefier job.
IF you are not changing the rotor or the calliper then the stopping power gains will be small?
That's not to say worthwhile, but not night and day surely.

I wanted to put in a reality check here, I must be having a funny morning!
 
My 100hp is in garage at the moment getting its rear pads and disks done. Will be pagid on rear for me, I have Ebc greenStuff pads on front with the pagid disks.
 
Tarox grooved and drilled with EBC greenstuff pads. Works wonders. Firm pedal with constant stopping on a sixpence. Only grief with disc change is access to the hub carrier bolts. Did my own and only took few hours. Worth it just for looks alone...Tarox discs are slightly larger diameter and look dangles through wheel .
 
yeah im not being rude here but I need to sort something out.

Our car park car Civic went in for its MOT today so I had a Jazz.....

Nearly had adnoh stomped on my for head this thing stopped just by looking at the pedal.

Its odd what you get used to, not to mention the angle of dangle it gets to around a rounderbout the Jazz
 
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