Technical P0101 - Stop-start - grrrr

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Technical P0101 - Stop-start - grrrr

Hennoir

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Hi all - Got a 2014 500c 1.2 and when run from cold has no EML NOR Stop/start issue lights on dash. Car can idle for a good 20 mins and warms up nicely, but when you drive let’s say maybe 10 mins, the stop/ start amber warnings come up saying stop start unavailable, but car still runs fine until you come to a stop and idle again, then the eml lights up with a check engine warning and then drops into limp home mode. Can switch off and restart the car and can drive it normally but still have the eml and stop/start ambers in the dash. ODB reader has P0101 code. If you leave the car for a while ( few hours) and you restart it the cycle starts again.
Have replaced the MAP sensor for a new Bosch one, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the battery with a new stopstart one . Alternator ok too.
Have had a look for any obvious air leaks and can’t see anything obvious in or on the intake manifold

I understand that if the car detects any issues it will shut off the stop start stuff first, but can’t seem to clear the eml permanently. I think if I can get that sorted it’s likely the stop start will sort itself out.

anyone have any other ideas?
 
Hi all - Got a 2014 500c 1.2 and when run from cold has no EML NOR Stop/start issue lights on dash. Car can idle for a good 20 mins and warms up nicely, but when you drive let’s say maybe 10 mins, the stop/ start amber warnings come up saying stop start unavailable, but car still runs fine until you come to a stop and idle again, then the eml lights up with a check engine warning and then drops into limp home mode. Can switch off and restart the car and can drive it normally but still have the eml and stop/start ambers in the dash. ODB reader has P0101 code. If you leave the car for a while ( few hours) and you restart it the cycle starts again.
Have replaced the MAP sensor for a new Bosch one, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the battery with a new stopstart one . Alternator ok too.
Have had a look for any obvious air leaks and can’t see anything obvious in or on the intake manifold

I understand that if the car detects any issues it will shut off the stop start stuff first, but can’t seem to clear the eml permanently. I think if I can get that sorted it’s likely the stop start will sort itself out.

anyone have any other ideas?
Hello Hennoir,
FYI if it may help. Follows is an experience to share (I searched the Forums for insight along the way, as recommended to you. I'm posting simply to add to the knowledge base, not as a solution for you per se).

2014 500 1.2 FIRE 32k
After a couple of trouble free years, my problem started out with (unfathomable) intermittent S/S unavailable, then became engine warning light, yellow triangle, sometimes followed by limp. Then light(s) would go out seemingly of its/their own accord. Then back on. Then progressed to turning into limp-mode. Then come out of limp mode of its own accord.

This was all Greek to me - the last time I looked under a car bonnet, the only electronics were sets of points and a coil.

Took it to local mechanic, fault reported was MAP sensor, replaced. Problem recurred, fault reported was air leak at inlet manifold, rebuilt with new gaskets and cleaned throttle body etc. Problem recurred, fault reported P0101 (I don't know what codes were previously reported and whether or not included P0101) and inlet manifold leak (again).

When I say 'problem recurred' - sometimes the light would come on then go off again, sometimes followed by limp mode which would then go away. What I didn't know at the time was both can go away on their own e.g. switch off engine and goes away after a while, leave overnight and EML may go away. What a frustrating PITA (not knowing that that is 'how it works'). Dumbass system IMHO but what do I know? So I'd limp home for 20mins when I could have sat with engine off for 10 mins then resumed. EML would come on, but drive ok. Go to supermarket, come out and light disappeared. Talk about flailing about in the dark when it comes to trying to diagnose what the heck is going in. I went to a hospital appointment, 40m drive all good. Came out after an hour, started up and lights on and in limp (40m from home). Switched of 10mins, no limp, lights on. Drove home no problem. Next day no warning lights on. Clearly Fiat and I have a very different understanding of what meets the definition of a fit-for-purpose diagnostics system.

Anyhoo, back to mechanic. Had already done battery check, past. However, on retest found that whilst it past check on battery, it failed as soon as the car was started i.e. it tested good 'static', but as soon as cold crank to start battery then showed as fail. Replaced battery.
Problem recurred, inlet leak. Performed smoke test - no leak identified.

A little 'detail', 2 different mechanics looked at it. The second (who replaced battery and did smoke test) said MAP sensors have been known to fail, and aftermarket non-oem cheap China knock-offs have been known to play up with ECUs but he'd checked and replacement was NGK known-brand so not obvious candidate.

After much more of my time spent (AFAIK I only get one life, & whilst I believe some think to the contrary I'm going to go with that) I decided replacing MAP sensor at least was within my capabilities & with no leak on smoke test, manifold rebuilt etc etc suggesting the ECU may be telling porkies (or, more accurately, the whole error code diagnostics can be close to pretty effing useless), investigated the MAP sensor. Found replacement Bosch part on FleaBay was less than a Bobby so went ahead.

I haven't had a problem since, covering approx. 1k. Fingers are still in crossed mode.

The MAP sensor replacement was not NGK, it was NTK, whoever they may be. When I took it out, it was covered in oil. As I understand it (only from reading around, otherwise I know diddly), it shouldn't be, because it measures air. So, in terms of 'logical process of deduction/elimination', would suggest MAP shouldn't be oily hence replacing it may not have been a problem with it nor 'cos not Bosch, and replacing may mean new one is not reporting problems because it is not oily - yet.
Next suspect (so far as I can deduce) could be PCV valve stuck or leaking o-ring. However there are no other indications other than oil on MAP i.e. no oil visible anywhere around inside engine bay.
Then there's the petrol tank evap thingy rabbit whole to reside in but there's never been anything reported to suggest that direction be pursued.
However, the laughingly titled 'diagnostic' system of error codes has said there's a problem with air leaks when a smoke test says there isn't, etc etc.
Along the way I purchased an OBD and confirmed the error repeatedly as P0101 (MAF or MAP, seems to depend on who you're speaking to) and changing the MAP (for a Bosch OEM one (relevant ?)) definitely seems to have fixed it - for now.

I haven't even been able to find where the PCV valve is on 1.2 FIRE (YT vids seems to show on 1.4/Arbarth), I believe it may be some pipes at the back of the inlet manifold, so if I get P0101 and find it is oily again it will be going to the mechanic again. For now it has not yet been allowed down off the naughty-step. Maybe after another 1k trouble-free.

So, pick the bones out of that lot. Can't say anything definitive concluded.

FWIW what I 'think' may have happened is two, perhaps more, problems conflated.
Firstly, I think the s/s unavailable may have been the initial and separate issue. Because it was unfathomable and intermittent, and the battery tested good, the mechanic just reset the error code and it was 'good'. Until it wasn't. The battery DID subsequently fail on test, but effectively only after starting the car. That sounds to me like a battery failing i.e. shows voltage but failing capacity to store amps. Coincidentally my neighbour had had a very similar problem with her Landy Evoque - similar age, 8yrs. So not unexpected at that age. Dumbass diagnostics is smart enough to disable s/s but not to tell you why.

Secondly, it may or may not have had inlet leak (causing error messages and limp) - I say that because it has reported it, the manifold has be rebuilt, but still reported it when smoke test says no. So who knows.

Thirdly, MAP sensor replacement of unknown brand with Bosch has led to current reliable motoring. Removed sensor was oily. As I understand it it should not have been, so may not have been a faulty sensor.

No conclusions per se.

What a right royal PITA. Reason I decided to post is not a solution, rather that most every post I read on your topic is a similar runaround of erratic and inconclusive tail-chasing

Perhaps it helps to know you're not alone

Best,
 
Hello Hennoir,
FYI if it may help. Follows is an experience to share (I searched the Forums for insight along the way, as recommended to you. I'm posting simply to add to the knowledge base, not as a solution for you per se).

2014 500 1.2 FIRE 32k
After a couple of trouble free years, my problem started out with (unfathomable) intermittent S/S unavailable, then became engine warning light, yellow triangle, sometimes followed by limp. Then light(s) would go out seemingly of its/their own accord. Then back on. Then progressed to turning into limp-mode. Then come out of limp mode of its own accord.

This was all Greek to me - the last time I looked under a car bonnet, the only electronics were sets of points and a coil.

Took it to local mechanic, fault reported was MAP sensor, replaced. Problem recurred, fault reported was air leak at inlet manifold, rebuilt with new gaskets and cleaned throttle body etc. Problem recurred, fault reported P0101 (I don't know what codes were previously reported and whether or not included P0101) and inlet manifold leak (again).

When I say 'problem recurred' - sometimes the light would come on then go off again, sometimes followed by limp mode which would then go away. What I didn't know at the time was both can go away on their own e.g. switch off engine and goes away after a while, leave overnight and EML may go away. What a frustrating PITA (not knowing that that is 'how it works'). Dumbass system IMHO but what do I know? So I'd limp home for 20mins when I could have sat with engine off for 10 mins then resumed. EML would come on, but drive ok. Go to supermarket, come out and light disappeared. Talk about flailing about in the dark when it comes to trying to diagnose what the heck is going in. I went to a hospital appointment, 40m drive all good. Came out after an hour, started up and lights on and in limp (40m from home). Switched of 10mins, no limp, lights on. Drove home no problem. Next day no warning lights on. Clearly Fiat and I have a very different understanding of what meets the definition of a fit-for-purpose diagnostics system.

Anyhoo, back to mechanic. Had already done battery check, past. However, on retest found that whilst it past check on battery, it failed as soon as the car was started i.e. it tested good 'static', but as soon as cold crank to start battery then showed as fail. Replaced battery.
Problem recurred, inlet leak. Performed smoke test - no leak identified.

A little 'detail', 2 different mechanics looked at it. The second (who replaced battery and did smoke test) said MAP sensors have been known to fail, and aftermarket non-oem cheap China knock-offs have been known to play up with ECUs but he'd checked and replacement was NGK known-brand so not obvious candidate.

After much more of my time spent (AFAIK I only get one life, & whilst I believe some think to the contrary I'm going to go with that) I decided replacing MAP sensor at least was within my capabilities & with no leak on smoke test, manifold rebuilt etc etc suggesting the ECU may be telling porkies (or, more accurately, the whole error code diagnostics can be close to pretty effing useless), investigated the MAP sensor. Found replacement Bosch part on FleaBay was less than a Bobby so went ahead.

I haven't had a problem since, covering approx. 1k. Fingers are still in crossed mode.

The MAP sensor replacement was not NGK, it was NTK, whoever they may be. When I took it out, it was covered in oil. As I understand it (only from reading around, otherwise I know diddly), it shouldn't be, because it measures air. So, in terms of 'logical process of deduction/elimination', would suggest MAP shouldn't be oily hence replacing it may not have been a problem with it nor 'cos not Bosch, and replacing may mean new one is not reporting problems because it is not oily - yet.
Next suspect (so far as I can deduce) could be PCV valve stuck or leaking o-ring. However there are no other indications other than oil on MAP i.e. no oil visible anywhere around inside engine bay.
Then there's the petrol tank evap thingy rabbit whole to reside in but there's never been anything reported to suggest that direction be pursued.
However, the laughingly titled 'diagnostic' system of error codes has said there's a problem with air leaks when a smoke test says there isn't, etc etc.
Along the way I purchased an OBD and confirmed the error repeatedly as P0101 (MAF or MAP, seems to depend on who you're speaking to) and changing the MAP (for a Bosch OEM one (relevant ?)) definitely seems to have fixed it - for now.

I haven't even been able to find where the PCV valve is on 1.2 FIRE (YT vids seems to show on 1.4/Arbarth), I believe it may be some pipes at the back of the inlet manifold, so if I get P0101 and find it is oily again it will be going to the mechanic again. For now it has not yet been allowed down off the naughty-step. Maybe after another 1k trouble-free.

So, pick the bones out of that lot. Can't say anything definitive concluded.

FWIW what I 'think' may have happened is two, perhaps more, problems conflated.
Firstly, I think the s/s unavailable may have been the initial and separate issue. Because it was unfathomable and intermittent, and the battery tested good, the mechanic just reset the error code and it was 'good'. Until it wasn't. The battery DID subsequently fail on test, but effectively only after starting the car. That sounds to me like a battery failing i.e. shows voltage but failing capacity to store amps. Coincidentally my neighbour had had a very similar problem with her Landy Evoque - similar age, 8yrs. So not unexpected at that age. Dumbass diagnostics is smart enough to disable s/s but not to tell you why.

Secondly, it may or may not have had inlet leak (causing error messages and limp) - I say that because it has reported it, the manifold has be rebuilt, but still reported it when smoke test says no. So who knows.

Thirdly, MAP sensor replacement of unknown brand with Bosch has led to current reliable motoring. Removed sensor was oily. As I understand it it should not have been, so may not have been a faulty sensor.

No conclusions per se.

What a right royal PITA. Reason I decided to post is not a solution, rather that most every post I read on your topic is a similar runaround of erratic and inconclusive tail-chasing

Perhaps it helps to know you're not alone

Best,
Hmmn - Thanks for the Bruce! Food for thought and you are absolutely correct it's a PITA....

However - As previously mentioned I have change the MAP sensor for a brand new Bosch unit, and replaced the battery with a brand new SS one. Cleaned the TB, checked for leaks or vacuum leaks on the inlet manifold and now have also changed the PCV (Purge valve and 2 'o' rings too) with a brand new one and now i'm at the point where the EML no longer makes an appearance, but still the SS amber warnings still appear. I have also had the timing belt, water pump and aux belt done too, together with a new centre and exhaust back box. the alternator is good and voltage is all good. Just to say that when the SS is working the car will switch off for perhaps a few minutes possibly and then restart which I would say is bang on and running as it should.

The amber warning lights are not there when the car is cold, the SS will work fine and the amber SS lights will appear probably 10 minutes afterwards (seems When the car is warm). I have also had 1 day when the car was run for 30 minutes (From cold) with NO amber SS lights appearing and the car performed the SS function brilliantly. You can imagine that I thought hurragghh fixed, but short lived as on the next 15 minute journey they came back on again and have come on on pretty every journey since and makes no difference if the car is manually stopped and restarted when warm the amber lights will return.

I don't have a clue what do from here really. the only saving grace is that (as yet) they EML light has not returned but as far as i'm concerned the issue is still there and is very annoying and there car returns no codes from the OBD reader.

Any other ideas taken on board
 
Hello Hennoir,
Sorry to hear that.
Happy to report continue to be issue free since replacing MAF (after replacing battery). Don’t know if it was a faulty sensor or because it was oily, but definitely resolved for now. Old replacement shouldn’t have been oily, cause not fixed so wondering oily-ness may return. If the problem returns, I’ll check for that, and if so may be looking at pcv.
But none of that feedback helps you as you have done everything I have (battery, MAF) and more (PCV).
The ‘warm/cold’ issue strikes a chord, insofar as I described supermarket run & problem disappeared, hospital and it appeared - just so unfathomable.
I don’t think there’s anything from my experience I can relay of help - other than maybe research…..
I don’t recall you mentioning the petrol tank leak test (evap canister valve). Have you looked into that? (It seems you’ve done pretty much everything else I happened upon in my searching). In response to my post the site Moderator kindly PM’d me and mentioned it, so I guess must think it could be relevant.
Only other thing I recall is mention of dodgy ECUs and that they can be sent for testing.
Such a PITA,
Best,
 
With the above symptoms, failing after a short run, I'd be suspecting an oxygen sensor. They need time to warm up, so faults may not report until the ECU expects them to be ready to give proper readings. Their voltages can be read with diagnostic equipment, including MultiECUscan, the Fiat specific software favoured by many on here.
However, faults with injectors could also delay showing, as there will be some enrichment on cold start, so a leaking injector, allowing extra fuel through, may delay being recognised until warm.
A faulty temp sensor can also cause issues later, as they generally don't read until 50deg or above. Does the temp gauge read as expected? Similarly, a faulty thermostat can cause slow warm-up and cool running.
There may be other options, but this needs diagnosis, now guesswork.

Airflow sensor is usually very reliable, but susceptible to oil contamination. There's a breather pipe from the cam cover to the airbox, can be checked for oil, as it should not get much in it. The internal design of the cam cover acts as an oil separator. As said above, NTK is a brand of NGK, so all good there.
 
This comes up frequently....hence my very early suggestion post number 2 to use the forum search function for the p#### ## stated.

I am not saying the evap solenoid valve is faulty.....but it could be and has caused many other people problems.
 
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Massive clue is you car does not have a MAF sensor and you have been chasing a maf sensor code.


A better code reader would have been able to read two more digits after p0101 which would have completely changed the meaning of the code to nothing to do with MAF sensor- which makes sense because your car does not have a MAF sensor.
 
And I did use the search function, endorsed your advice to search to #OP, read every post and came up with nothing even broadly similar to mine & #OP’s issues, which seemed so.
Just hoping to add to KB. There is nothing in it that helped me currently, and that is actually also the case with most - dead ends not resolved
 
And I did use the search function, endorsed your advice to search to #OP, read every post and came up with nothing even broadly similar to mine & #OP’s issues, which seemed so.
Just hoping to add to KB. There is nothing in it that helped me currently, and that is actually also the case with most - dead ends not resolved

Hi Bruce,

That's very strange I suggested that search because for me it brought up an old thread where the fault was identical to the op

Jack
 
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Hi Bruce,
Just tried search again for
P0106 27
Worked fine

Have a look for faulty evap valve solenoid ... they can and do cause air leak into inlet manifold.

Very easy to rule out at no cost.

Jack
 
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#Jackwhoo - thanks, in responding to #OP with details of my experience which were similar to their’s, I had not seen your different fault # for search.
Re: MAF/MAP - I’ve seen them used interchangeably everywhere. My mechanic reported having changed the MAP sensor and second mechanic reported error code indicated faulty MAP sensor. I wouldn’t know whether either mechanic has 4 or 6 digit code.
Air inlet manifold leak had previously been reported, & new gaskets fitted & TB cleaned & error code eliminated.

Replacing the MAP sensor has eliminated the persistent problem instantly and completely with no other changes made, and not returned once after several months & ‘00s of miles (whereas prior to, increasing in frequency).

The evap can thread you signposted is not identical to either the #OP’s or mine’s symptoms insofar as neither of us report rough idling or loss of power.
Neither are reporting that error code either.
Furthermore, none of those on that thread actually report evap canister or solenoid to be a solution to their (different symptom) problems, as I found often to be the case in my searches.

Anyhoo, all good for now having replaced MAP.

Thanks for the heads up - if it starts behaving badly again it’s an avenue I’ll certainly investigate…..
 
#Jackwhoo - thanks, in responding to #OP with details of my experience which were similar to their’s, I had not seen your different fault # for search.
Re: MAF/MAP - I’ve seen them used interchangeably everywhere. My mechanic reported having changed the MAP sensor and second mechanic reported error code indicated faulty MAP sensor. I wouldn’t know whether either mechanic has 4 or 6 digit code.
Air inlet manifold leak had previously been reported, & new gaskets fitted & TB cleaned & error code eliminated.

Replacing the MAP sensor has eliminated the persistent problem instantly and completely with no other changes made, and not returned once after several months & ‘00s of miles (whereas prior to, increasing in frequency).

The evap can thread you signposted is not identical to either the #OP’s or mine’s symptoms insofar as neither of us report rough idling or loss of power.
Neither are reporting that error code either.
Furthermore, none of those on that thread actually report evap canister or solenoid to be a solution to their (different symptom) problems, as I found often to be the case in my searches.

Anyhoo, all good for now having replaced MAP.

Thanks for the heads up - if it starts behaving badly again it’s an avenue I’ll certainly investigate…..

Hi Bruce ,

Post number 1 states limp mode (reduced power) occurs in conjunction with mil

It is very good your problem resolved.

MAP and MAF sensors are significantly different to each other and function completely differently.
 
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Check engine P0101 and P0106

Thread started by @Lucy1999
Put that in search function for thread with fix by replacing evap solenoid

I'm sorry I can't post a link for you to click on.....I don't know how or would already have done so
 
Hi again everyone - Many thanks for all of the information, hopefully continues to be helpful for other folks

As an update I am no longer getting the EML (P00101 nor any EML light) but still getting the amber 'Stop/Start not available' periodically and having had a weekend away with my wife, we took our little convertible on a road trip which gave me the opportunity to try and find a pattern. I did notice that on a country road with a sharp bend approaching, I braked quite hard, just pressing the brake pedal, that seemed to bring the amber SS warning lights on and then they would stay on until the car is restarted.

It does seem to be something to with pressing the brake pedal quite hard (Soft braking doesn't seem to bring the amber lights on) somehow as I have found this on a few occasions. There have been a couple of times where I have pressed the brake and clutch pedals together and the lights have come on too. My wife drove the car from Glasto back to the midlands (100+ miles) and said that the SS worked perfectly for the whole journey which involved SS in traffic and stopping for driving breaks.

My thinking is could it be the brake light switch (Brake lights all work) possibly but it does seem to be brake pedal related?
 
Hi All,

Just to try and get to a conclusion.....I think I have now managed to get the bottom of the SS issues with my 500c. I have replaced the brake light switch and that, believe it or not seems to have resolved the SS amber warning lights coming on. Just to clarify that the brake lights have always worked and the SS amber warning lights were a bit hit and miss if they appeared.

Some may already know but the brake light switch is located in the passenger side footwell of the car. I'm not sure if this is the case with all right hand drive 500's but having looked above the brake pedal on the drivers side couldn't find anything resembling the brake light switch, and noticed that when the brake pedal is pressed it moves a transfer bar over to the passenger side which is where the brake light switch is located. May help others

Thanks to all of the above for your assistance and I'm pretty sure I'll be back soon with other issues, but you never know......
 
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