Technical P0011 Phase Variator Position fault code

Currently reading:
Technical P0011 Phase Variator Position fault code

Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
377
Points
167
Location
bradford
Hi folks my 68 plate pop 1.2 8v with 76k has been misbehaving recently with hesitation and kangarooing intermittently on a light throttle between 1200-2000 RPM.

Last week when this happened, the EML light came on and thereafter the kangarooing stopped. After about 5 times of stopping and restarting the engine the light went off and the symptoms came back. This would suggest when the EML light comes on the VVT system stops functioning and goes into a locked position?

Multiscan suggested that I check and/or replace the VVT solenoid. Which i did. After 2 days i'd have said the initial fault had not fully disappeared. Then today, the EML light was back on on with the same fault code. My old solenoid looked clean with no visible debris.

Has anyone come across this issue before? The Solenoid I purchased wasn't new so there is potential for that to be the issue or could it be the VVT sprocket itself possibly sticking or have seized? Could an engine flush help with this?

I should say the cam belt was replaced at 72k by me and everything worked fine after that for a while. Not sure if i should just bite the bullet and change both the solenoid and variator.

Your thoughts please,
Adam
 
Just a quick update, it eventually turned out to be the variator. With the new one in, the car runs much better and no engine light on. Tested the solenoid and that was working fine. Pulled the old variator apart and couldn't find any obvious damage aside from the fact the internals felt notchy and didn't move freely.

Adam
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5683.jpg
    IMG_5683.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 71
  • IMG_5684.jpg
    IMG_5684.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 52
  • IMG_5685.jpg
    IMG_5685.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 62
Low miles but like the UniAir module on Twin Air VVT uses engine oil pressure for actuation I think so I'd be scrutinising the oil change frequency and grades.
Well the car has always done 20k + each year and I’ve done all of the maintenance myself (was planning on keeping it for a long time).

The handbook states 18k intervals which I’ve always followed. Recently, it’s had a service every 9 months @18k. Perhaps it’s a little too long where oil changes are concerned…. I know the copper core spark plugs give up the ghost by then. It’s always been 5w-40 with reasonable quality oil from known brands.

Since this issue started it was suggested to do a flush (with forte) and then I switched to 0w-20 (which is the new spec for the very last FIRE engines from 2019 onwards). That made zero difference.
 
My only motor with this was the Twinspark Alfa

They got Noisy..

Did this one give 'warnings'?
You've reminded me; me too Alfa 147 TS. My local independent always recommended changing variator out with cam belt. It would make a rattling noise on start-up, like it was starved of oil. The Alfa liked to use a bit of oil so I was always checking and topping up; great engine, however it committed suicide when the thrust bearings wore to an extent that the crank knocked the crank seal out when cornering dumping the oil in one! Shame - 140k miles, owned from new...
 
Well the car has always done 20k + each year and I’ve done all of the maintenance myself (was planning on keeping it for a long time).

The handbook states 18k intervals which I’ve always followed. Recently, it’s had a service every 9 months @18k. Perhaps it’s a little too long where oil changes are concerned…. I know the copper core spark plugs give up the ghost by then. It’s always been 5w-40 with reasonable quality oil from known brands.

Since this issue started it was suggested to do a flush (with forte) and then I switched to 0w-20 (which is the new spec for the very last FIRE engines from 2019 onwards). That made zero difference.
So based on my comment above the belt should have been done (regardless of mileage, due to age) and so I would have changed out the variator.
 
Belt and pump was done at 70k and it began playing up about a month later 🤦‍♂️. I think that’s wise. The part itself isn’t that expensive. I went for the INA brand which is the same as the OEM. Fitting wasn’t hard. The bolt was relatively tight but thankfully the camshaft oil seal stayed in place and didn’t come out.
 
Back
Top