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Panda Our Panda 6 months on.

Introduction

Now had it about 6 months and 1100 miles, 22150 miles on the clock,
2006 Panda Multijet , it's suffered a bit from not being used, been garaged from new one owner no real rust just a little light rust on the rear spring cups rest of the axel still as paint, now covered with Waxiol.

I noticed a staggered row of plastic bungs down the length of both sills are these normal or as it had anti rust?

Needed a new battery due to not being used two rear tyres due to age cracking being 16 years old.

It also started to leak Diesel from the High pressure pump but just as I was going to do the seals it stopped and as not leaked a drop since, odd.

It also had a habit of resetting the clock and trips on start-up cured by giving the switch part of the ignition lock a good squirt of switch and contact cleaner.

You can replace just the switch bit for about £15 but not sure
which one I need as mine only as 5 wires going to it.

It could also at times be hard to start when hot, the last time it did it I decided to check the tank and could not get the fuel filler off due to vacuum, freed the anti vacuum valve in the cap and it's been fine since, it would also almost stall as you came to a stop now and then, switch cleaner and a check of the connections to the clutch switch seems to have fixed that,

It did have a lot of tyre noise but the two new tyres on the back sorted that and once up to speed you honestly cant hear the engine it's smooth and it catches me out as I tend to let the revs drop to low if not careful,

I can just hear a little turbo whine when accelerating at low speed, it's suffering form lazy car syndrome but getting better with added miles.

It replaced a 139,000 mile Clio that was noisier not as smooth but faster they seem about the same on fuel 60/70mpg non burn oil Panda has a better steering lock and seats, the Clio more storage and a rear parcel shelf that lets it's self down after it's been up I have had to get out to shove it down in the Panda many times, and the Clio had a bigger boot, Panda lights are better, and the clutch and accelerator much lighter.

It passed it's MOT with no advisory s

Will see how the next 6 months go.
Dropped the keys, that didn't do the immobilizer chip any good so down to one
key, a txt to a local locksmith in Morecambe had it fixed, got a new transponder key
and a spare chip, stuck the chip in the damaged remote and now have 3 working
keys, took less than half a hour, job done.
 
I am surprised we dont see more ign switch fails. The dealer at the garage said it was common and I have done two
 
I am surprised we dont see more ign switch fails. The dealer at the garage said it was common and I have done two
Me too

I have had two fail on a 05 and 06

Shed loads of replacements switches sold on eBay

Garage also told me it was common

I hate changing them.
 
It would likely be essayer if you removed the complete lock and did
it on the bench but that means removing the non reversible screws
and I have not tried that, is there a way not requiring drilling them out.
 
I just unclipped the switch from the barrel. No need to remove the barrel

Used second hand parts so had to do it 4 times

There not designed to be unclipped and was quite stressful. Thinking about it afterwards it’s probably easier and less stressful to cut the old one out. (The first one I took out carefully to try and repair) and use a new switch

There are two versions of the switch. The contacts are different. You need to inspect before ordering. I took mine from Puntos at the breakers


Now here’s the problem. Under the switch the are two plastic discs which fall out. Make a note of which order they are in and which way up they are. There a lot of wrong combination and only one correct. They also have to be in the right orientation first one I did took ages to get wright second one only took a few attempts
 
Looking at some of the photos of third party ignition switches

Some would be much easier to fit as the discs are attached permanently unlike the OEM one
 
Third party switches looks like the way to go to me. It’s what I would do next time

Here the two types you need to find out which you have before ordering
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It would likely be essayer if you removed the complete lock and did
it on the bench but that means removing the non reversible screws
and I have not tried that, is there a way not requiring drilling them out.
You don’t drill them out as there not that tight normally

Make a groove with a chisel on the outer edge of the head it’s soft.

Then angle a screwdriver and tap it round and loose

Far easier than drilling and a lot less mess

Some of the Puntos will come out just with mole grips if you are lucky. Not sure if there enough room on the panda

Not worth removing it for a ignition switch in my opinion now I have seen third party switches come with the discs. Permanently attached
 
Just to add the MJ engine uses twin cams as that’s the easiest way to do the job. Inlet valve ports curve so they generate a swirl of incoming air. Exhaust ports are in tandem. The EGR valve gets a more direct exhaust flow than the turbo so you can appreciate how easily it clogs the inlet manifold with soot.
If it wasn’t such a struggle to access I would suggest removing the inlet pipe. But it’s so hidden, no normal person would want to touch it.
 
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