Thoughts on things like
Additives
Petrol types
Letting it warm up and so on
And just about any other internet information
Additives
Petrol types
Letting it warm up and so on
And just about any other internet information
I always turn on the ignition and wait till everything has normalised then start the engine.
The owners manual, states to start moving off gently but immediatelythen let it idle for 30 sec's or so before moving off sedately.
I don’t, but some cars seem not to like being treated like this
The owners manual, states to start moving off gently but immediately
I half understand this. . Makes sense to me oil not circulating get more wear. But why it’s better to warm up the engine oil more quickly I don’t understand.
My old Sisley was driven from Manchester to Leeds with no oil in it by my best man, it had a hole in sump that he was ‘unaware of’ but ‘I thought I heard something hit the bottom of the car wehn I joined the M60, it survivedOn buying my 1st Diesel.. I read the manual..cover to cover
It stated.. Do Not Idle.. start and drive
And that was a turbo..!!
But.. if you carefully treat something it will last
My 500 I bought last year..at 3 years old
Is only the 2nd FIAT Ive owned that gets through engine oil..
That diesel was FANTASTIC..
Ran with no oil circulating after an accident , repaired to make oiltight and it covered ANOTHER 250,000 And was still 'oiltight'
Used k-seal on the Ducato camper, got us from Switzerland (wehn clutch release bearing went) back to Yorkshire no problemK-Seal works
Wouldn’t recommend it.
Better to fix the problem properly
But sometimes needs must to get you home
Hahahahahaha yes, indeedI would say if you are going to"Drive it like you stole it", then drive off straight away gently, until temp. gauge in the middle/normal before you flog the t*ts off it and it will last longer.
Bigger diesels always sound quieter when warmed up and all the metals have expanded.
Re additives, generally modern oils and fuels should be up to the job on their own.
Re tools, I have most of my Brittool combination spanners Whitworth, A/F , Metric that I got as an apprentice over 52 years ago, I have never been impressed by shedloads of over priced Snap On tools in a cabinet big enough for some people to live in, even more so when they cost more than I spend on most of my cars!
garages use to sell a dose of redex Bottom end bearing use to be shot at 50K miles. Truck drivers use to light rags on top of their fuel tanks in winter. None of which happen now 130 years of continued development in fuels, oils and materials. Means if a car is regularly serviced it will easily pass 200k even small stressed enginesRe additives, generally modern oils and fuels should be up to the job on their own.
Kept my old imperial sockets and spanner’s, got me out of trouble many timesRe tools, I have most of my Brittool combination spanners Whitworth, A/F , Metric that I got as an apprentice over 52 years ago,
That makes senseIt is recommended to drive away promptly to help warm up, as with the engine working, it will generate more heat than when idling. Until warm, it injects excess fuel, which will rinse the bores, causing more wear,
Also makes sense to meoil additives were necessary, or beneficial, the engine manufacturers would include them in their required specification, or the oil manufacturers would include them.
If the extractor you have ordered works in the same fashion as mine in photo then beware of what I said earlier about dislodging the ceramic ball valve.120,000 mile Fiat 1.3 JTD with EGR solid with carbon, inlet manifold liberally clogged with carbon from a 1mm layer at front of engine to 3mm at back of engine. Injectors 1 to 3 all came out but progressively more dirty. No 4 injector will not move. Solvents dribbled in had no effect and careful levering hasn't moved it at all - Nothing detectable. I've measured the height with a vernier to detect any movement - there is none. It's pretty much welded in place. If the extraction kit I've ordered does work, I think the injector itself is toast. If it does not work, I've wasted £70 and have a scrap engine. It's the risk you take.
All this, because the exhaust manifold favours exhaust gas flows into the EGR and slow driving allows soot to settle out from slow moving air. It's clearly more clogged at the EGR end. So with all the complexity of a water cooled EGR, including its own personal port across the cylinder head, why does it not include soot filters to clean the recirculated gasses? Obviously, it's not because the warranty runs out long before the problems arise. Oh No!
Other than that, the engine looks solid and really well designed. It's little gem. But if that injector wont move it's effectively scrap as no further dismantling is possible with it jammed in place.
Would fuel additives have prevented this problem? Maybe running it on biodiesel from day one (it burns cleaner than Dino diesel) would avoid the soot. Occasional doses of Redex, STP or even XTC - not a chance.