Technical Not winning any trafficlight sprints

[Mancusi]

Hi everybody,

I have owned a Stilo Abarth for over a year now and about six months ago I had the engine rebuilt because of a worn crankshaft bearing. The list of things that have been replaced is very long including the crankshaft twice due to wrong part thanks to FIAT f**king up. Had to have the block line-bored aswell after the first wrong crankshaft.

Now as is well and after replacing the TDC sensor is goed like hell:devil: again.

Except from a standstill if I put my foot down all the way immediatly it goes slow up to 3000 and then BOOM - LIFT OFF.

I remember that it always went very quick the second I pressed the pedal down. Now I can only get a quick start when I turn the ASR off.

What could be wrong!?

Also when the car roll's to a standstill the downshift from three to two is very heavy and the car feels like it's breaking. When i do it manually the change is very smooth but the selespeed seems to pick the wrong time for changing gears (up and down) constantly and it was much much smoother before.

I expected both issues to disappear after changing the TDC sensor but it didn't. More sensor replacing, resetting, etc...????? HELP!!!!:bang:

 

[12[X]]

try wheal geometry, check variator function, clean air intake flap and MAF sensor and reset/retrain the gearbox also ave a look at ground points to the gearbox/engine

 

[Mancusi]

Wheel geometry: You mean the shape of my wheels. They were just balanced (which doesn't mean they are round) but I guess I would notice if a wheel would be misformed. Shudder and vibrations i guess.

Variator function: Educate me!?

Clean airintake: Already done, was only a little dirty with black goo.

MAF: Will try, thanks.

Reset/Retrain gearbox: How?

Ground points: One on the computer at the underside near the throttle body, checked. One at the back of the block, checked. Missing any?

Thank very much for the extensive suggestions:worship:

 

[12[X]]

variator is a device that modifies timing of your intake camshaft (have a look here: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_valve_timing[/ame] for VVT intro and use search for Alfa/Fiat specific implementation.. you normally get really poor fuel economy when this is faulty) it is a part that gets easily damaged when oil is low (or, as in your case, low oil pressure due to damaged crank shaft bearings)

Geometry is related to the actual position of the wheels (not wheel shape) stilos are extremely susceptible to damage here (a big pot hole can get it seriously out of alignment at times) in my experience, once your car starts to respond faster with asr off (on normal dry road surface) it is time to do it (looky here for intro: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200206/ai_n9092098/ only use computerised, laser based 4 wheel systems..)

there is a line going to the engine and gearbox (think these are separate..) quite easy to track.. follow the chunkiest black cables from the negative battery terminal (you'd be surprised how much of a difference it makes when you clean and reattach a seemingly clean ground connection)

gearbox diagnostics is dealer only job (or rather an examiner only job – an independent is advised here as their price is normally half of the main dealers)

the above should sort you out.. if not – make a note of any error codes etc (diagnostics would have to be done)

 

[Mancusi]

Fuel and oil consumption are both normal. For now I will rule out the variator. But where is it located?

Just had a wheel alignment done by the dealer. Rule that out also for now.

I'll check the grounds and clean them.

Did the computer reset through the examiner before. didn't help to cure the judder when downshifting from 2nd to 3rd nore did it fix the general bas shifting behavior. I was at another dealer this month (my old dealer and personal friend took his pension) and they suggested removing the computer so they could do a proper reset. Is this true? Can I do it myself, is this what they mean by flashing the ECU?

I want to get the Gendan device to do my own diagnostics. Would you recommend it, or another?

So this leaves me with cleaning/detaching the MAF and see if that helps, checking the grounds, and a full-reset.

Thanks again for taking the time to help me out.

 

[sixpotman]

Gendan Elm 327 mainly does engine faults does
pick upsome others but requires additional software to do so.

I'd be interested in knowing which software reads other modules
like steering abs etc. I did have something which picked up
other modules but had to format the computer so can't find
which one it was.

John

 

[Argonought]

If you're doing better without ASR then it can only be ASR which is reducing engine power (nothing else) although I'm assuming here you're not just flooring the accelerator and watching your front tyres disappear.

Well worth trying an ECU reset with issues like this (remove a battery lead for say 30 minutes)

Also, make sure you haven't got an issue with sticking brake switch (very common)

 

[12[X]]

grr forgot all about the break switch could also (plausibly) be related to fly wheel sensor (but that should've been picked up by the gearbox diagnostic - break sensor on the other hand will not be)

quick test for geometry (best done in a big shopping centre car park due to their road surface) is a full lock turn at about 10 miles an hour (listen for wheel squeal - although this is not conclusive by any means - if you get more noise turning e.g. left then right at the same speed it is more likely to be off) my dealer (desira) has given up on trying to do geometry on stilos (dedicated equipment costs too much) they were kind enough to let me know which independent they use though (Northway tyres) and, compared to all the other places i’ve tried over the years (about 10.. all were useless.. ranging from sorry we can’t do it – here’s your refund to f**k off dude – it’s all in your head.. it suppose to pull really hard towards the left..) when my geometry is off (assuming quick acceleration is needed) i end up switching off asr as well (it interferes witht he clutch due to detection of plausible slip on e.g. one tire)

was the timing belt changed? you could also get issues there (although like with variator this would have a severe impact on economy). So many things to try.. and do.. however, do not remove your maf - just use alcohol based contact cleaner and spray it all over (don't touch the sensor) also ensure all alcohol has evaporated before you try to start the car (sensor is a hot wire.. hot wire + alcohol.. not good idea)

variator is located at the timing belt side of the intake camshaft (not easy to get to – need to remove the camshaft), the actuator (electric solenoid) sits between the injector rail and rocker cover on the outside (this is easily accessible)

gendan is a good make (some people on here use it) but any such device would only give you generic diagnostics and live sensor feed (although some can get freeze frame data as well) – although good to have – this would not help you to diagnose the gearbox or ASR

given the judder clean the flap (can’t hurt to do it again - outside and inside.. as much as you can get to anyhow, as well as the wall around the flap- below and under use carb cleaner) and MAF +check spark plugs and air filter (if filter is a year or older – get a new 1)

Since i’m on the roll (time to waste) 1 more thing for you to do – clean the injectors.. redex to a tank of petrol should do it nicely. Afterwards (try to use up most of the petrol) put in some shell optimax and reset via gendan or battery disconnect.

after this things get progressively harrier.. like e.g. bleeding clutch slave cylinder, gearbox, clutch ware, abs sensors etc.