General no warning lights but the ABS pump not working

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General no warning lights but the ABS pump not working

amr badrawy

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no warning lights but the ABS pump not working
i have no warning lights but the ABS PUMP is not bush oil to the F/R wheel
can any one advise me what is that and how to fix it ? its t jet
 
How do you know the pump isn't working?

The pump does not push the brake fluid around your foot on the pedal does, all the pump actually does is release the brakes from a skidding wheel if the wheel locking up is detected, then rapidly reapplies the brakes, the 'Pushing' comes from your foot.

If you have no braking on the front right wheel then I would be checking to make sure the caliper hasn't seized up or the brake pipes themselves are not damaged in some way. If the wheel is not locking up when you apply the brakes then I would check the pads are OK and that everything is adjusted properly.

I have known someone to "crimp" their back brake lines buy hitting them on a speed bump and crushing them.

The fact you have no ABS warning lights is a good indication you don't have an ABS fault.
 
How do you know the pump isn't working?

The pump does not push the brake fluid around your foot on the pedal does, all the pump actually does is release the brakes from a skidding wheel if the wheel locking up is detected, then rapidly reapplies the brakes, the 'Pushing' comes from your foot.

If you have no braking on the front right wheel then I would be checking to make sure the caliper hasn't seized up or the brake pipes themselves are not damaged in some way. If the wheel is not locking up when you apply the brakes then I would check the pads are OK and that everything is adjusted properly.

I have known someone to "crimp" their back brake lines buy hitting them on a speed bump and crushing them.

The fact you have no ABS warning lights is a good indication you don't have an ABS fault.
My problem is that when I push the brakes, the oil doesn't reach the front right wheel. I checked all the pipes, they are ok. When I opened the pipe from the ABS pump side, I couldn't find oil passing to this wheel. Therefore, this wheel NEVER stops, although the other 3 stop and work normally.

And what's strange is that the ABS and brake warning lights don't working/giving light/flashing, even though they work when I start the car for about 5 seconds and the turn off.

So I want to know what's wrong with my car and how do I fix it?
 
I’m really not convinced of your methods here.

Fluid fills the full length of the pipe, no matter were you open it you should find fluid.

If you’re not finding fluid passed the abs pump then I’d have to question if you just need to bleed the brakes or have a air lock.
 
yes i need to to bleed the brakes i attached a photo to show what my problem is as you see the fluid flow from 3 holes only to the breaks that mean there is 3 wheels only to stop and no ABS warning on . i need to know what is that and how to fix it
 

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I’m really not convinced of your methods here.

Fluid fills the full length of the pipe, no matter were you open it you should find fluid.

If you’re not finding fluid passed the abs pump then I’d have to question if you just need to bleed the brakes or have a air lock.


yes i need to to bleed the brakes i attached a photo to show what my problem is as you see the fluid flow from 3 holes only to the breaks that mean there is 3 wheels only to stop and no ABS warning on . i need to know what is that and how to fix it
 

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Seized (internal) valve ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
Seized (internal) valve ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
can you please advice how to seized the valve ?
many thanks
 
If you have MES diagnostics, you can check ABS components by testing it - you can run pump and hear if it's working + you can test each valve for each wheel if its working. During checking each ABS valve you should feel movement on brake pedal. But you should do this test before unmounting pipes...
 
If you have MES diagnostics, you can check ABS components by testing it - you can run pump and hear if it's working + you can test each valve for each wheel if its working. During checking each ABS valve you should feel movement on brake pedal. But you should do this test before unmounting pipes...
i did all of that every thing works only the first valve do not bush fluid as the photo above
and the weird as no ABS alarm on dash board
 
Just to be sure

With the car on stands or jacked up on the side of the affected calliper,

Have you had someone hold down the brake pedal with their foot and have yourself try turning the wheel?
With the car on and off?

When you bled the brakes, did you do all four calipers?
How much brake fluid did you put through and did you notice any bubbles coming out from the bleed nipple on each of the calipers?
Have you taken the caliper off the rotor to inspect further?

Possible rebuild or buy one from a breaker,

Also how do the brake pads look? You can check them without removing the caliper,
 
Just to be sure

With the car on stands or jacked up on the side of the affected calliper,

Have you had someone hold down the brake pedal with their foot and have yourself try turning the wheel?
With the car on and off?

When you bled the brakes, did you do all four calipers?
How much brake fluid did you put through and did you notice any bubbles coming out from the bleed nipple on each of the calipers?
Have you taken the caliper off the rotor to inspect further?

Possible rebuild or buy one from a breaker,

Also how do the brake pads look? You can check them without removing the caliper,
yes i did and the wheel is loose .there was no fluid at that wheel . i search the internet but cant find pump with p/n 71748287 hardware part number 0265800663 at all
 
Bla bla bla, if that valve is seized (or permanently activated) you'd get exactly that fault...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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Bla bla bla, if that valve is seized (or permanently activated) you'd get exactly that fault...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
thanks for you support . any advise how to fix it ? thanks again
 
Well, two possible reasons: the valve is physically seized OR is permanently acivated by a faulty circuit... If I remember well they're all driven by MOSFETs and it's possible that the drive circuit failed and closes the valve ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
Nice one bernie, liked the schematic, very usefull.

Would you have the pin out etc. for the abs block and any bench test procedure, so valves/solenoids can/could be tested/activated??
 
Nice one bernie, liked the schematic, very usefull.

Would you have the pin out etc. for the abs block and any bench test procedure, so valves/solenoids can/could be tested/activated??

Unfortunately the internal valves / pump can NOT be accessed from the connector: the electronics is buil-in the module and talks to the car via CANs and K lines. The only way to check it is to MES it for fault and I don't know if one can test individual components...

Here's the pinout.

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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