"well, i am havin trouble finding my multimeter so i used a curcuit test light. it showed no current on the cable that runs to the distributer from the coil. So i assume no juice is runnin past the coil".
When the contacts are closed then the LT lead from the coil to the distributor is taken to earth, you'll only see voltage there when the points are open when the lead is then connected to earth through your condensor
With ignition ON check, using a Circuit Tester, that there is power on the + wire to the coil.
If there is power to the + side of the coil,
— remove the distributor cap and note to which lead the rotor arm is pointing or put the car in top gear and roll it until the rotor arm points to where the lead to the plug under test enters the distributor.
Refit the distributor cap
attach a spark plug to the lead under test and earth it by holding it against the engine
Remove the coil to distributor wire from the distributor and, with the ignition ON, touch it against the metal body of the distributor then remove it. As you remove it there should be a spark at the plug under test.
— If there is no spark, check the integrity of the LT wire. To do so: using a spare piece of wire attached to the same terminal on the distributor to which the wire is attached, touch the test wire to ground and look for a spark at the plug under test.
— If there is a spark then the wire has a break in it
If there is no spark; then check your HT leads for continuity and resistance
If they're ok then suspect the coil.
If touching the coil to distributor lead to ground at the distributor, does produce a spark.
— Check the condition of the contact breaker points.
— Check they open and close as the engine is rotated (or the car rolled forward while in top gear).
— If they are badly pitted or piled, replace them. While doing so, replace the condenser, although robust, its failure can be a cause of contact breaker erosion.
