Need help ASAP!!

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Need help ASAP!!

Mattpin2010

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I have a Punto MK1 and ive just had the radiator drained and had antifreeze put in with normal water and added radweld as the radiator leaks, 1st time around it all came out could this be due to air in the system? then it was all done again and i drove it home but it was heating up more than normal could this be the system just getting used to the new coolant and the radweld?
Please reply ASAP!!
 
I wouldn't think that it should take so much time for the engine cooling system to adapt to the new coolant and radweld. You'd better check your system for leaks and air trapped inside.
 
All of the coolant has come out again, ive been told that when changing the coolant you need to have the fan heater on inside the car to circulate any air and get it out of the system, is that correct?
 
Here is a drain and fill procedure that should work.

1) Locate any/all air bleed nipples/vents. Basically check top of radiator and all upper water hoses and housing for any obvious bleed points.

2) Open any points you find

3) Set car heater to max temp.

4) *slowly* fill radiator/header tank looking for water appearing at the bleed points. When this occurs close the bleed point(s)

5) when full, leave raditor cap *off*

6) start engine and let idle

7) when water level drops gently top up

8) *gentle* reving (max 3k rpm) will help the water pump push water around and help the air bleeding.

9) continue to top up till level remains constant

10) leave engine idling with radiator cap *off*.

11) feel top and bottom radiator hoses. Top will slowly come warm and then hot. Bottom will/should remain much cooler.

12) once engine temperature gets near operating temp the thermostat will open and the bottom rad hose will suddenely get very hot

13) switch off engine

14) gently open each bleed nipple/tap again till water comes out then shut it

15) top up again if required

16) replace raditor cap

17) start engine and let idle till radiator fan cuts in and out several times

18) check for leaks

19) if all ok go for test drive round the block

Some cars can be a little difficult to get all the air out of the system. Stilos, especially the Abarth version is a real pig.

If there is any plastic, air induction pipes etc. covering the top of the radiator then you really need to look very carefully. On the Stilo Abarth for instance you have to remove a lot of the air intake system to gain access to the bleed tap on the top of the raditor.

best of luck (third time round :) )
 
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Thank you for that s130, i will try that, just one more thing i had a new head gasket put on in february is there any chance that the new gasket could be on its way out again if all the coolant is disappearing?
 
Thank you for that s130, i will try that, just one more thing i had a new head gasket put on in february is there any chance that the new gasket could be on its way out again if all the coolant is disappearing?

When doing the bleeding procedure I posted check for bubbles coming up into the header tank when the radiator cap is off. Look whilst gentle reving as well. It could be that your head gasket has gone again and the pistons are pressurising the water jacket/system.

Did the garage get the head skimmed and block 'blue plated' before refitting the new head gasket?
 
No i dont think the head was skimmed when the new gasket was put on, how can the head be gone again if it was only done in february?
 
Aluminium (and steel) blocks and heads can warp.

Steel block warping is very very rare. For this to happen then engines have to be litterally run dry of oil and experience excessive block temperatures.

Cylinder heads are more likely to distort/warp especially aluminium ones. Once warped they need to be skimmed to ensure a truly plane surface.

Also, when a head gasket blows, even if no head warping/distortion is present, then escaping water and gasses past the gasket can cause pitting and errosion of the surfaces. These need to be sorted before fitting a new gasket. Again this mostly affects aluminium cylinder heads.

The cylinder head to block interface is quite a stressful environment and both surfaces need to be clean, true and pit/errosion free.
 
Tbh, if your radiator has holes just replace it, now ones for the Mk1 aren't that expensive. Much better than using radweld - there are plenty of threads about this stuff causing more issues than fixes.

Edit: Apologies, just had a look and it's Wonderweld I was thinking of but still, for the price of a new rad you'd be much better served just swapping it out.
 
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All the air has been taken out of the system, but the coolant is still coming out, could it be a water pump failure?
 
I think you need to be more specific about "coolant is still coming out".

From where?
Only when car is hot or cold?

Yes it could be a water pump but to be honest when one gets this far into a problem then actaul 'hands on', realtime analysis is really required. I've no idea of your cars plumbing, if it uses a recirculation header tank etc. etc.?

I suggest you try and find local machanic/expert.
 
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