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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
Part of the lift kit was picked up by DPD courier this morning, and on it's way back to Rialzi.


Std front shocks will be replaced with extended ones: +3cm tube, +3cm spring saddle, +3cm longer rods, for the rear wedge type spacers instead of auxiliary coil springs.


Time will tell.
 
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Just had pair of cv to hub/front bearing spacers modified.
Central plane is 4mm thinner now therefore whole half shaft will be shifted outside by that distance.


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Not sure about the R25 coils spring (21N/mm) and +3cm front shock combination as it will give 7.4cm lift and the rear will be only +6cm. I'm considering swapping the springs to MG-ZR (30N/mm) ones they are half coil shorter and rod diameter is 0.6mm bigger. Beefier rod can only aid to car handling at that sort of lift level.
 
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Returned parts are physically with Rialzi. I can't do anything other than just believe in their goodwill.


DPD done well again as the parts were picked up on last Friday, 16kg box insured up to £200 - not bad for 23GBP.
 
No update on the Riazli replacement parts other than mr. Christian replied on my tracking number request email with some ******** that the parcel will be ready soon. I'm not putting much hope in that, I regret already.


On the other side, I think I've found perfect solution for the BDL (brake differential lock) as suggested previously. Rather then using solenoid valves on brake lines latest suggestion is to use 2x brake line lock known under Hydra-lock , Jamar brand.


A simple device to hydraulically hold brakes locked, use with your existing brake system

To Operate - Step on footbrake and press once to lock (release footbrake and brakes remain locked)

To Release - Press on footbrake and the Hydra-Lock opens instantly.

Important Note:
Hydra-Lock must not be used as a handbrake or any form of parking device. And is not suitable for silicone based brake fluid.


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Basically the rear hard lines would go through the floor somewhere between 4x4 lever and hand brake, split into two , pass through independent line locks and two hard lines would continued towards rear, two flexi lines connected to hard lines on the rear axle.


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Additional benefit is that they can be used as parking brake, ie. when you need to stop on step hill to go out and open the gate etc.


Approx. parts cost £70, I bet it would help me much when I was stuck last time as ns wheel had perfect grip when the opposite was stuck in deep mud hole - just lock the os wheel and hit brakes when moving on.


Any thoughts?
 
Clever thinking J.
Might need three feet when moving off to control clutch, throttle and hit brake pedal - but not impossible.

Also need to feel, hear or look to know which wheel to brake - could be obvious from seeing the obstacle before getting stuck or could use trial and error - lock left and try it, if no good unlock left and lock right..

Nice light weight, cheap(ish) addition that adds options - what's not to like?
 
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New longer rear shocks fitted today, made quick trial round the block, there is realy bumpy back alley near by long enough to build up some speed so I don't need to drive far from the unit to get decent feedback.
So far so good, just one bump managed to close them fully down but I'm still aiting for the rear axle spacers (45mm). Rear end is stiffer - no doubt in it, but it is still comfortable. Actually they seems to be handy as with raised gravity point stiffer suspensions is recommended to keep the rig streight in fast bend.

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Standard 4wd rear ride hight between shock eyelets is 300mm, 15mm lift from shackle and 45mm lift from axle spacer give you 360mm new ride high.

Mk2 2wd shock is 420/253mm long with 168mm stroke, so 360mm will give you 102mm upward travel and 65mm downward travel.

New blue shocks are 450/270mm long with 180mm stroke, 90mm upward travel and 90mm downward so i'm looking forward to a bit more articulation at the back.
 
Swapping the shocks and having a play with testing articulation I've asked myself - how can it be increased and what is stopping the axle to freely drop down.






The answer to that is - FRICTION!, it is actually one of few factors.


We all know in between each individual leaf of the spring there is normally rust and tones of rust powder. Yes, we can put plenty of grease there but how long it is going to last it that harsh environment? mud, water, salt spray - you don't need much to be back in start position. This morning I've come across leaf spring liner, unfortunately almost not existent product in UK but wildly available in US and Australia.
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Normally made from Teflon or Polyethylene, both side lips are helping to keep it align.


Might be worth consideration as the ride comfort is increased as suspension works smoother and wile off-roading I'm assuming that if the individual leafs can move smoothly rear axle should be able to produce bigger articulation.
 
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Finally!

Replacement parts are here! Meanwhile there is Uno being taken into parts 25miles away, just wating for confiration that drive shafts are still available.

More soon to come.
 
Where did you get the leaf spring liner from please? I think my springs (not used for 18 years) might benefit, but my budget is a little tight.

Those were just to show the options, I'm strugling to find any ready tu fit liner in UK, best alternative what i've found is 3M Helicoptertape or TESA 51206 or simply 2mm thick sheet of Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE)cut to size wich will cost approx. £8 +vat per strip of 75x1000mm ( two strips per car)
 
i managed to liberate the axles from an uno in our scrap yard. if you need any measurements..

i forgot about the CV boot flange.. oops

i'm also working on something i can use to stop the leaf springs rubbing on each other. Fallouts ones are pretty thin :/

Mentioned scrap man quoted me £50 for two complete shafts as they have to remove them parts, £40 is not enough for him - greedy bastard. Dims and splines are confirmed now, just need to get some. How much have you paid John?


If they are thin, the 2mm UHMWPE might be the best option, even if they go only between the long and middle leaf at I would say those do the 70% of the job.
Try http://www.plasticstockist.com/UHMW...High-Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Sheet.aspx


or cheaper HDPE alternative which is available in 1mm thick sheets
http://www.plasticstockist.com/HDPE-Sheet-PE300/Natural-High-Density-Polyethylene-Sheet.aspx
 
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This is some proper marine stuff.


Chafe Tape is a pressure sensitive tape using ultra high molecular weight polyethylene film with an aggressive acrylic adhesive.
The result is a very tough material, with the highest impact strenght of any thermoplastic presently made.It has extremely low moisture absorption and very low coefficient of friction, is self lubricating and is highly resistant to abrasion (15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel).


But 1.5m long, 152mm wide and 0.5mm thick cost £43, I don't exactly how much is required for one set but if you cut one roll along the centre line it might be enough for two sets.


Sorry for hyperlink complication but the "good language wizard" is blocking tw@t for the link, copy and paste + replace **** with coast water...

https://www.coas****ersports.co.uk/protect-chafe-tape-152mm-clear-p-2570.html
 
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Jacob have you considered the mk2 uno passenger side flange... it would be ok for a smaller lift I think.

I will have a closer look on them.
Currently I've got few flanges and I'm trying to build few kits around them:
- modified Italian flange for 50-60mm lift as anything higher than that require extended front shocks and ideally front suspension setup to be modified.
- modified 127 cast iron for 35-40mm lift.
- few std panda alloy ones to be modified ( potentially Uno as suggested) for safe 25-30mm lift if preferred by the owner.


And I think I've found source for cast iron flanges same as 127 but not marker with 4203334, therefore bit less expensive, still to be confirmed.
 
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drive shafts from my local cost £15 each!

they have just had another Uno come in too same colour but a fire ie.

Block just send me message to ring him in which case I believe £20 a piece is fine for him, it is really rare for me to pick parts locally unless you got a boat and friendly scrapyard in Norway.
 
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