Technical Multipla JTD 1.9 Clutch Replacement (in progress...)

[BikeDoc]

Well, what a lovely day to be crawling around under a Multi

Just about ready to drop the box now, all the necessary gubbins have been removed.

Couldn't see the excellent guide I've looked at mentioned in any of the Gearbox/Clutch work threads (although I didn't fully read through every single page), anyway, even if it is posted somewhere, this may help someone . . .
Multipla clutch replacement

Couple of points;
1. The guide says to pull the O/S drive shaft out (of the Gearbox) before removing the Gearbox, but I didn't do that when I did the Clutch on my last Multi, the Gearbox simply pulls off the shaft, I'll know in an hour or so . . .

2. I found it easier to un-clip the Gear-change Cables from the bracket, rather than unbolt it from the Gearbox.

 

[BikeDoc]

Ignore point 2 in the previous post, I did have to remove the bracket in the end as it fouled on the Chassis before the 'box would come fully out.

Also had to drop the subframe.
The 'box was jamming against it, and if I jacked it all up a bit, it then fouled on the A/C pipes.

Didn't touch the O/S drive shaft, the 'box come off it easily enough, just need to be careful to keep it all square when refitting.

Anyway, it's off now, and I have a severe case of déjà vu . . .
The one on my first Multi . . .

and this one . . .

Pretty much the same state, just without the oil.

Spring fingers are much worse though . . .

No wonder it squealed like a stuck Pig

 

[boilermansab]

Nice!
Its got to be where the bearing is in constant contact with the pressure plate making it prematurely fail..mine was the same.
At least your oil seal isn't leaking..its nice and clean in there...

 

[boilermansab]

Are you going to change the dmf?

 

[BikeDoc]

Hopefully not

Will check it over, if it's beyond limits I'm tempted to just weld it up . . . turn it into a SMF

 

[widemouthfrog]

Nice. As boilerman says, at least the oil seal is intact. Much free play in the clutch fork bearings?

 

[BikeDoc]

No play at all in the release fork, like new

Off to the Fiat dealer in a mo', wish me luck

Edit; Scrub that, Fiat were too pricey this time (were the cheapest when I did the last one).
Valeo kit from Euro Car Spares £103+VAT.
They originally quoted £150+VAT, but when I told them my local GSF quoted £95+VAT they dropped down, they have it on the shelf, whereas GSF couldn't get it in until 4pm.

 

[boilermansab]

Always worth asking shop4parts as they were prepared to lower their price a fair bit on a clutch kit...when I was looking..buypartsby were the cheapest at the time though..
Also try carparts4less they deliver next day too

 

[widemouthfrog]

LUK clutch from BuyPartsBy is best value atm, but I'm not sure if it HAS to have the LUK DMF to go with it (comments to that effect in the product description). Could just be salesman bulls**t.

 

[BikeDoc]

Online buying is all very well, but if you've no warning of the part failing beforehand, and it goes on a Friday night to-boot . . . the law of Sod and all that

Not sure how interchangeable the Valeo and Luk parts are, but mine is a Valeo, so I went with that, cheaper of the two luckily, only by £15 or so, but it all helps.

Treated all the bearing/wearing parts to some nice Dry Film Lubricant . . .

 

[widemouthfrog]

Is that the original clutch fork? Small photo, but it looks almost like new!

 

[BikeDoc]

No idea to be honest.
Only 87,000 miles when I got it, so it could be all original in there.
The pressure plate is stamped with 'FIAT', so I suspect it is.

Was a little wear on the fork ends, but they cleaned up OK with a coarse Scotchbrite disc, the Dry Film Lube should make it easily outlast the new clutch plate . . .

 

[widemouthfrog]

What make of dry film are you using?

 

[BikeDoc]

I use this brush-on lube . . .(PL470)

 

[BikeDoc]

. . . Do folks here think that the clutch release bearing is/should be completely clear of the pressure plate fingers when your foot's not on the pedal, or is it permanently (but lightly) in contact with them?

Oh, to be able to see inside the bellhousing when it's all put together....

Only one way to find out.
I was thinking of drilling a small inspection hole in the bell-housing on mine, just before it made it's final death-squeal.
I have access to a video Borescope (endoscope) kit, only needs an 8mm hole to go through.

I'll drill mine before I refit it, I'll be able to get pictures as well.

Maybe an extra spring is in order, on the clutch arm, to ensure it moves enough to fully disengage.
It would probably need a positive stop on it as well, otherwise it may retract too far.

Edit; Having said that, there's already an access port at the top of the housing, next to the engine.
The Borescope probe may fit down there, although it looked a bit tight when I looked before I removed the 'box.

Watch this space . . .

 

[widemouthfrog]

Maybe an extra spring is in order, on the clutch arm, to ensure it moves enough to fully disengage.
It would probably need a positive stop on it as well, otherwise it may retract too far.

See post #203 in this very thread.....

 

[BikeDoc]

Ah!
Told you I hadn't read all the way through . . .

I'll definitely have a go at making something up for it.


They ain't coming out unless I want them to . . .

 

[MultiplaAbarth]

Dear Santa,
Please can I have a borescope for Christmas, I hope you understand, I have a Fiat Multipla to look after...

​

 

[Alpitlum]

Bussed into town this morning and booked the MOT for first thing Monday morning (£45).

Mark

Did it pass?

 

[BikeDoc]

Multipla JTD 1.9 Clutch Replacement.


Can be very useful, you can poke them almost anywhere

So, made the return spring and stop gubbins today . . .

The parts . . .


Spring hook isn't the tidiest thing I've ever made, but I'm a bit pushed for time

There's a redundant bolt housing on the 'box, just in front of the slave cylinder (would be another good place to poke the Borescope).
I drilled and tapped it for a 6mm screw, and did the same to the arm, but for a 5mm screw . . .

The spring hook is pressed into the Alloy holder, which is machined down to fit the bore in the 'box, and has a flat section machined at the top.


The shaped filler piece is from the old seat frame on my Recumbent Trike (I never throw anything away ), it fits the housing perfectly.


The eccentric stop sits on top, and the fixing screw goes into the bore just far enough to stop the spring hook fitting from rotating (that's what the machined flat section is for).

Just need to find a suitable spring, there's a box of them somewhere in the untidy mess that is my workshop . . .