Tuning mintex brakes

[Lecook]

hiya guys I'm looking for a new set of rears for my cinq has anyone used or heard of or have any feedback they can give me on the mintex stuff, I've heard they are simialar to the omp stuff but am unsure,

Any help/advice/feedback would be great as there's a great deal on ebay for shoes, cylinders and springs at the moment

Cheers

Lee

 

[fingers99]

Mintex should be fine. Not really important, as the rears do very little.

 

[Lecook]

Ok cool ill get them ordered then next month all going well ill have ut brakes up front

 

[cc1]

I don't rate mintex any more. used to be good. They fade too quick. I have had better braking from cheaper brands.

 

[rallycinq]

Mintex are a well known quality brand, if its genuine Mintex, it will not be a problem.

Cheers

D

 

[David C]

I don't rate mintex any more. used to be good. They fade too quick. I have had better braking from cheaper brands.

Which specific Mintex compound are you referring to?

Like most brake manufacturers they produce many compounds.
All basic Reg90 road pads (if genuine) will be VERY close in normal road use, that is after all the whole point of the Reg90 regs!!

 

[MMS]

Hello i am new to the forum but used to own a fiat 127 gt i have rallied a hillman imp for 20 years and work as a mechanic on WRC events, this is my first post. i can thoroughly recommend mintex if you bed them in correctly you will not have problems i run my imp on mintex comp shoes (drums all round) work really well brake balance is important and do not under estimate how hard the rears work if the car is balanced on its suspension and tyres. now off to find the welcome area to introduce myself properly

regards mike

 

[fingers99]

The rears on a 127 (or an imp) no doubt work very hard. On the Centos, the weight is something like 60/40 front biased before you apply any braking effort. Under hard braking the rear wheels will be almost off the ground, and there's a proportioning valve preventing them from overworking anyway.


That's why many track day FWD cars run with the rear brakes disconnected altogether -- I mean, plumbed out.


Rallying imposes rather different demands.

 

[Lecook]

My problem is the fronts I got were cheap and cheerful, I probley did glaze them when I put them on as they weren't bedded in properly (I have a heavy,lead lined, right foot) hopefully soon as I said before I will have a set of uno tub brakes up front but my rears are due a change as they do grind every now and then

Cheers for all the advice and reviews on them, ill put an order in as there up as a complete shoe,spring and cylinder set for 26quid, worth a punt I suppose

 

[fingers99]

Should be fine. Don't forget to remove the wear lip (or rust lip!) and squeeze so the shoes will just go into the drum.

 

[Shadeyman]

I've previously used Mintex disc's and pads for general road use and had no issues with them what so ever. As long as they're genuine I'd recommend them ..

 

[Lecook]

just got to a laptop so i thought id pop up the link for anyone looking to do there rears any time soon

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110894669977?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


cheers again guys for all your thoughts and opinions

lee

 

[cc1]

Mintex have always been fine for me, but, I fitted rear shoes and front pads and had problems after 1000 miles or so. Hand brake hardly worked (new cable/actuators/cylinders/drums/shoes). Front pads lost braking power and started to split. Could have been a bad batch? Punto rear disk conversion. 500+ miles and the things could barely hold the car on hand brake. Brake efficiency for MOT. Fail.????
Not worth the money when you can get better for less ££££s.

 

[Lecook]

im looking at the brembo rear drums too, even if they do nothing they'll still look different lol
ive got new actuators and a new handbrake cable to go on at the same time, might have the rear beam off whilst the brake pipes are off and give it a little rustproofing

lee

 

[fingers99]

If you go that far, clean up the area where the beam bolts through and treat, also seriously consider cavity wax inside those box sections.

 

[Lecook]

Ok cheers fingers, will be investing 30 of my golden nuggets on a 5ltr can of waxoyl, hopefully that'll do the job

 

[fingers99]

Should do, but waxoyl is pretty dated. You might try something from the FROST or bilt hammer catalogues.

 

[ycming]

Por15. That's what i got recently . Still to use it!

 

[Lecook]

Hmm might have a look into it, what are there prices like??

 

[fingers99]

Tend to be a little more pricey than waxoyl, but £30 or so should do you enough aerosols to do a Cinq, I'd think (rear and front horns, sills, the dreaded rear sear belt mount area).