Technical Map sensor/egr hell!!!

[willow1]

Further to the last entry.

I'm also told that this hose is unique to the Multipla so can't be taken from another JTD model.

Is this right?

Cheers.

 

[boilermansab]

He's talking out of his arse!
My hose is ribbed...it also always seems yo have a dribble of oil seeping out

 

[boilermansab]

Just eBay multipla intercooler hose and you will see

 

[willow1]

Yeh, Googled it and the one I've seen on E Bay is ribbed but the Fiat dealers I've spoken to say they're not ribbed?????

Should they be reinforced in some way as stated?

I'm assuming you've looked at yours and they're ribbed?

Do they feel hard without the engine running?

Cheers.

 

[boilermansab]

Mine is definitely ribbed like the eBay one.
I've taken it off on several occasions Amd its not particularly hard

 

[widemouthfrog]

Strictly speaking, that bottom pipe isn't ribbed, it's corrugated; they could just be splitting hairs. The long pipe further along the run to the inlet manifold is ribbed.

In any event, I thought mine must have been replaced at some point in the cars life because it's got 'Made in England' proudly printed on it. Judging by those on ebay, they're all like that from new. If that pipe is going to cost a fortune as an OEM part, it would probably be easier/cheaper to replace it with a length of silicon boost pipe, which is readily available on ebay. You could also replace the horrible Fiat clips with some decent stainless jubilee clips at the same time.

Assuming of course, the one that's already on there is split!

 

[willow1]

Whether the pipe should be ribbed/corrugated/normal, what's happening, it would seem, is the pipe is collapsing when the revs are increased, creating a blockage.

I only revved the motor to 2000 but it's happening above that range.

I think I'll try the silicone hose route and see if that improves things.

Many thanks for your efforts so far and I'll keep you posted once I get a pipe

 

[widemouthfrog]

I can't see how it can collapse when the engine is revved - something is definitely not right if that's the case. The output from the 'inlet' side of the turbo has to raise the pressure in the connected pipe above atmospheric pressure, or it will defeat the object of the exercise. That's why you should be able to feel the pipe going 'hard' when the engine is revved - it's basically being inflated by the turbo. If the pipe is collapsing, the air pressure inside the pipe must be lower than atmospheric - you'd end up sucking air out of the inlet manifold, not pushing it in!

Can you post a photo or two of what's fitted to your car?

 

[willow1]

I'm scratching my head to be fair and as stated previously, close to putting a hammer to it.

I'll get some pics on next week and hopefully we'll reach a solution. If not, it's scrap.

 

[willow1]

This is the pipe I'm on about.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k138/pipeboy1/turbopipe3_zpsa28994f0.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k138/pipeboy1/turbopipe2_zpsfa07556b.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k138/pipeboy1/turbopipe1_zpsace3bf44.jpg

 

[multiplied]

The pipe on my multi is exactly the same as yours ( and always oily in 5 years we had her).

Have you checked the silicone hose that runs from under the turbo to the over boost valve?
These snag/chaff near radiator fan and then you lose most of power from your turbo as car goes into safe ( limp) mode.

The silicone tube us approx 10mm diameter and if you look under front bumper in the middle, you should see it pushed onto a round metal object near turbo, have someone rev car and check this hose "sucks" , it should suck pretty hard,
Now connect it and gave someone rev and you should see the device it's connected to move up and down considerably .

If no vacuum in pipe then it's the over boost valve

If vacuum in pipe but no movement up and down below turbo, then the turbo vanes could be stuck - these can be cleaned in situ with a product on the internet.

 

[willow1]

Cheers for that Multiplied.

Is the pipe red and goes into something that looks like a flying saucer? If so, is that the wategate and should I look at it from below or from the top of the engine to see it moving?

 

[widemouthfrog]

It's the actuator for the variable geometry vanes in the turbo - in effect, a bellows that turns the air pressure in the red tube into movement at the turbo itself. Coming out of the top of the 'flying saucer' you'll see a rod with some knurling on it and a lock nut for adjusting the rod length (don't be tempted to muck about with that!). As the engine is revved through the 1,500-2,000rpm range, you should see this rod move. If it doesn't, either:

• The turbo actuator solenoid (the thing at the other end of the red pipe, next to the battery) is busted, or;
• The red pipe or one of the points at which it connects to other things has a split in it. Also check for severe kinks in the pipe or any junctions as this will block the pipe, or;
• The actuator bellows (aka flying saucer) is perforated internally, or;
• The actuator rod has rusted into the actuator, so can't move any longer, or;
• The VGT ( the variable geometry mechanism inside the turbo that the rod connects to) has seized up, probably with soot and oil from many 1,000s of miles use

You can see pretty much all of what you need to see from above. The best way to check the pipework is by feel. Be thorough, as even a tiny split will allow enough drop in pressure to stop things working.

 

[willow1]

Widemouth and everyone who's offered advice - many thanks. This Forum and you lot are top dollar, and I'm not just blowin' smoke up your collective arses!!

However, I've decided the Multi has to go before I kill it, so I bid her "Adios" this morning.

I've retained the brand new MAF and the very clean engine cover and they're on Flea Bay at the mo.

Again, many thanks for your contributions.