Panda Lower wishbone arms - 100hp

[Johinty]

Hello,
Finally joined up having dipped into the occasional thread when I've had issues with my Pandas. I'm on my second now, a slightly tatty 2008 100hp. It has just failed it's not due to excessive play in both lower wishbones. I would look to replace both complete units

 

[Johinty]

As opposed to just the bushes as it would likely be more complicated and probably more expensive. I wonder if someone would be kind enough to direct me to some parts options. From what I can see many motor factors will sell you a wishbone that is actually not designed for the 100hp but for the regular panda or panda diesel models. Any help would be much appreciated. Sorry for the lack of brevity and twin messages? Jon

 

[chris3234]

As opposed to just the bushes as it would likely be more complicated and probably more expensive. I wonder if someone would be kind enough to direct me to some parts options. From what I can see many motor factors will sell you a wishbone that is actually not designed for the 100hp but for the regular panda or panda diesel models. Any help would be much appreciated. Sorry for the lack of brevity and twin messages? Jon

Try shop 4 parts they should offer most everyday parts you require and sell quality aftermarket and original items

 

[Johinty]

Hi Chris, Thanks for your quick response and recommendation. I have seen s4p's site, and the part no for a magneti marelli seemed to match up from what I could see. I will give them a go. They also offered an original equipment option, which seemed a little steep - not sure it's worth paying the extra? Cheers. Jon

 

[rmjbn1]

Hi Jon, and welcome "Slightly tatty 100hp" - sounds ideal!

Yes, it's definitely better to replace the wishbones than try to replace the bushes.

You'll also need new pinch bolts.

It's one of the few parts that's disappointingly expensive on the Panda, especially when it's just to replace a rubber bush... and even more so on the 100HP (which is apparently the same wishbone, but with a different bush).

On the plus side it's an easy job, just 2 x 18mm bolts and 1 x 13mm. Just drop the car back on the ground before tightening everything.

I was tempted to try replacing the bushes in my wishbones, then it failed the MOT on the balljoint... I got mine from s4p.

There's a recent thread here that might be helpful.

 

[DaveMcT]

You need to disconnect the anti roll bar so might need to replace the drop links. Lining up the rear bolt can be a struggle. Red rubber grease on the front bush will help to get it into the subframe more easily. Use a high solids anti seize on all bolts especially the ball joint bolt.

The ball joint bolt can be difficult. When you loosen the bolt watch which way the pin shifts (up or down) then you cantata the strain off the bolt while you wind it out.

I used the Magnetti Morelli 100HP arms but do wonder if the cheaper standard arms would be just as good. Saying that, these are not a huge premium.

These are the "correct" type and about 1/2 what I paid.
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/magneti-marelli/1834820
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/magneti-marelli/1834821

 

[dac69er]

Just buy the cheapest arms you can find from ebay for the correct age panda. Don't worry about them not being 100hp specific.

I've not found the 100hp specific ones last any better than cheapo ones. There may be a slight performance advantage, but nothing most people would ever notice.

 

[koalar]

Just buy the cheapest arms you can find from ebay for the correct age panda. Don't worry about them not being 100hp specific.

I've not found the 100hp specific ones last any better than cheapo ones. There may be a slight performance advantage, but nothing most people would ever notice.

agreed

we aren't driving on a flat race track here in the pothole UK

I doubt half on ebay and the like are genuine Magnetti


spend more time than I care to mention on this, I didn't both replying as it seem this topic is started nearly every month

recap what we know for sure

the castings are the same

the bushes are different

eper and magnetti Morelli have different part number for the 100hp

Third party replacement bushes list all models including 100HP

Ball joints and bushes on some ebay parts don't last like the originals

Standard arms fit and work.


What we don't know is

If the ball joint is the same. More than likely is.

 

[DaveMcT]

I paid £80 each for the correct Magnetti Morelli and absolutely would not do that again as the difference is not worth the cost. However, the ones I linked to are 100HP correct and cost less than £10 more than the "normal" types. You might as well use them for the small extra cost.

The ordinary spec arms at Shop 4 Parts are £39 for Original Birth (a good brand). I used them on my wife's 1.2 Dynamic.
https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=2267

 

[dac69er]

I paid £80 each for the correct Magnetti Morelli and absolutely would not do that again as the difference is not worth the cost. However, the ones I linked to are 100HP correct and cost less than £10 more than the "normal" types. You might as well use them for the small extra cost.

The ordinary spec arms at Shop 4 Parts are £39 for Original Birth (a good brand). I used them on my wife's 1.2 Dynamic.
https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=2267

I paid £40 for a pair delivered ?

They last about 3 years, which is better than I got out of the 100hp specific arms.

 

[Johinty]

Great advice, really helpful. Thanks to all who responded. I actually picked up the 100hp on a whim whilst searching for another Cross. Its totally different, but equally brilliant in its own way (though not so great with potholes!). I'm no kind of technical guru tbh, but if I spot any good deals on panda related stuff, or anything useful, I will be sure to feed it back to the forum.?

 

[DaveMcT]

I paid £40 for a pair delivered ?

They last about 3 years, which is better than I got out of the 100hp specific arms.

Well done - seriously. I get what I can when it's needed but do tend to avoid the mega cheap from eBay as it's impossible to know if that stuff is any good.

 

[dac69er]

Well done - seriously. I get what I can when it's needed but do tend to avoid the mega cheap from eBay as it's impossible to know if that stuff is any good.

I know what you mean. I would say I get decent stuff about 90% of the time, so worth a punt for the cost savings in my opinion.

Cars in general don't last like they did, so the parts are going to be equally as throw away too!

 

[koalar]

I know what you mean. I would say I get decent stuff about 90% of the time, so worth a punt for the cost savings in my opinion.

Cars in general don't last like they did, so the parts are going to be equally as throw away too!

price doesn't mean better

transmech and blupoint clutches are the same but are priced differently

Most of the online arms will came out of the same China factory regardless of what band the seller says it is. Just badged and sold under different brands and prices.

 

[Wazzzer]

Both sides of wishbone bushes came up in my MOT as an advisory this year so I'll need a set of arms soon; I'll probably go for the cheaper options as they seem to be almost a consumable

 

[paddie]

I bought the RTS ones from Autodoc for my 100HP, they have the strengthened bush. Easy to fit and great value for money.

 

[Johinty]

Thanks again for all your replies. Fitted both arms today - the ones recommended by Dave T from s4p. Bloody brilliant service as they arrived next day. Took me best part of the day, biggest issue being the ball joint being seized on both sides. Took half a can of penetrating oil and a fair amount of hammering / jemmying to release them. The bushes (new ones) at the rear of the arm seemed a lot thinner on the mid section, around the thicker bit the bolt goes through, than the ones I removed which I'm guessing were the specifics for the 100. But as someone stated, it's unlikely there would be any noticeable difference. Cheers?

 

[DaveMcT]

The pinch bolts can be a pain to remove and might need a drift to bash them though. New bolts are needed anyway so no need to take care of the threads.

The easiest way to shift the ball joint pin is to wedge the slot open with an old screwdriver. Tap it in to widen the slot a mm or so. Remove the bolt first.
A jack under the wheel hub (not disc) can help to lift the hub off the ball joint.

My 100HP bottom arms were quite straight-forward. The 1.2 Dynamic (normal spec arms from S4P) LHS was a horrible pain to line up the rear bush bolt. I got there eventually, but it insisted on going out of line. The car tracks dead straight so I doubt there's any structural damage.

 

[dac69er]

The pinch bolts can be a pain to remove and might need a drift to bash them though. New bolts are needed anyway so no need to take care of the threads.

ive never had to replace the pinch bolts. they have been in serviceable condition and i have changed the arms about 3 or 4 times now and the car has done >140k miles.

My 100HP bottom arms were quite straight-forward. The 1.2 Dynamic (normal spec arms from S4P) LHS was a horrible pain to line up the rear bush bolt.

i struggled loads if you try and locate everything and the put in the rear bush bolt. sometimes it goes in easy, but most of the time it does not!
i found putting the rear bolt in first and then sliding the front bush into place works far better. sometime it needs a little persuasion, but its much easier than any other way i have tried.

 

[DaveMcT]

S4P recommend the pinch bolts should be replaced. Mine were very rusty (both cars). I coated the new ones need to end (OEM zinc plated in anti seize paste so should be good for ever.

The 100HP bottom arms went in ok though the front bushes needed a smear of red rubber grease to get them into place. Otherwise, there was no way I could get them in. On the 1.2. the RHS arm was a quick fit. The LHS was an absolute B. The bolt fitted fine without the arm so no thread damage but every time I tried to fit the arm, the bolt felt like it was trying to go cross-threaded. I got there in the end but not a fun job. A mirror and torch to first see how the bush was sitting, then a ring spanner to lever the bolt in line while turning turned out to be the best option.

The tip I can add is make sure the car is VERY solidly supported and put a jack under the wheel hub to move it up and out of the way. That gives more wriggle room to align that pesky rear bolt.

PS. When I did my wheel bearings, I treated the car to a set of new shock absorber pinch bolts (10.9 high tensile Geomet zinc coated). One of the originals sheared off and the others were very tight on the threads.