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Barchetta Lefty’s B - Progress Topic

Introduction

As most will have seen in my newbie post, I have inherited a Barchetta when my brother passed away earlier in the year.

The car has been in storage for 10 year and I now have it back at my house with an intention to get it running and street legal by the summer

First weekend of work was more investigative, but then went in to a bit of cleaning.

I took the spark plugs out and the engine turns freely :)

Generally, the rust is minimal and mainly surface rust

All brake pads would have been in serious need of replacement, even if it hadn’t been in storage.

Fuel tank removed, about 1/2 gallon of fuel in it, but clean and no rust or debris.

My 26 year old son wanted to help, so, as the passenger seat was out, he wanted to clean up the interior as it was in serious need of some tlc.

Parts ordered from local car spares shop (trying to help the local business where I can)

Timing belt kit including water pump and pulleys
Auxiliary belt
Rocker cover gasket set
Front discs and pads
Read discs and pads
Oil filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs

Should all be with me during the week, so next weekend will be busy!

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Rear brake imbalance … anybody know how to fix that?
They said the brakes are 65% on one side and 45% on the other, so pretty bad!
Maybe it needs new calipers

I think there is a differential on the brake line, between the two calipers, maybe it needs some inside cleaning. Or it may be an easier fix, you could have air in the 45% caliper and if you do proper bleeding of air, they'll both work fine. Or, it could be as you've said, the case of need of new caliper.
 
We had a LongLife Stainless custom made fitted in 2011 on our 2005 "B".

The normal OEM system had three boxes. Middle, Middle-Rear (before axle) and Rear/Back box.

Even if you have a non standard stainless system any quality stainless custom system fitter/company, such a LongLife (franchised around the UK) will be able to repair or remake/fit as required.
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys, I will have a look at the weekend

Out of curiosity, do you have any idea of what it would cost for a full Longlife exhaust system?
 
Back in 2011 our Longlife system cost £300 fully fitted.

This was CAT Back and consisted of a middle and rear box and tail pipe.

Basically they will make up what you want using choice of boxes and end tail pipes with all tubing cut and bent as required including custom hangers. All in stainless and TIG welding.

I can lookup up what item part numbers were used but these have probably changed since 2011.
 
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Back in 2011 our Longlife system cost £300 fully fitted.

This was CAT Back and consisted of a middle and rear box and tail pipe.

Basically they will make up what you want using choice of boxes and end tail pipes with all tubing cut and bent as required including custom hangers. All in stainless and TIG welding.

I can lookup up what item part numbers were used but these have probably changed since 2011.

Thanks for that, I am sure the price has gone up since then, I was worried it was going to be really silly money, but at least that gives me an idea and once I inspect it at the weekend, I can make a decision based on how bad it is. If I am lucky, it is a section joint and taking it apart, putting some sealer in it and putting it back together may be the solution.

Sorry to hear about your MOT failure.
I thought the brake compensators were to balance between front and rear but I'm still learning my way around. That still might be a problem though. You've probably already found this thread which may help:
https://www.fiatforum.com/barchetta/421623-rear-brake-imbalance.html

Helpful information, thanks, I have ordered new calipers and when I fit them, I will have a look at it
 
I thought Stainless Steel exhaust were supposed to last forever

Can this be repaired with exhaust repair stuff, or will that not stick to S/S

Looks like it has been done before and some stuff came off it when I was cleaning it
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Good marine grade Stainless will never rot and last forever. However stainless is a brittle material so for exhaust plating/box walls needs to thicker than normal mild steel.

That crack you have can not be fixed by any compound. It needs welding and preferably plating over the weld to build up the support strength between the pipe weld joint and the box outer rim/wall.

Also what is odd about what you have is the the stainless box has been directly welded onto the mild steel pipe. Normally the box would have it own stainless steel inlet tube that would sleeve fit over the mild steel pipe. Also this stainless inlet tube would form part of the internal construction and support of the whole exhaust box.

All this probably explains why yours has fractured.
 
Also what is odd about what you have is the the stainless box has been directly welded onto the mild steel pipe.

I thought that was strange too. I believe that this exhaust came from DTR, so again I am surprised that it isn’t full stainless steel.

Would gum gunk get it sealed enough to get through the MoT?

What I want to do is get it through the MoT and then be able to take the car somewhere to get this repaired or replaced

At the moment, it is all about temporary repairs
 
Yes probably enough for the MOT. You could also cover with aluminium/other heat resistant exhaust tape which might prove more flexible.

I've never really understood the exhaust leaks rules post CAT unless there is a structural/fire risk reason. Technically, as do many older cars you can have a straight pipe from front to back or bent out to side etc. So a small blow on a joint, protected by a heat shield is far less worse IMHO. Can't see the CO poisening aspect either unless you have holes in the floor pan as well.
 
I have ordered some gun gum and one of these

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Total cost £10, so not much to lose if it doesn’t work

I will also look into a total S/S system as, like you said, this seems to be some kind of cheap hybrid
 
It may or not be of interest but I just spotted one of PaulieCabs latest videos where he has a similar inspection failure on his brakes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgSFnWNUIPg
I just got jealous of how little surface rust he had to deal with down there.

Thanks Chris, had a quick look at the video, will watch it properly later.

Had 2 new brake calipers delivered today and got the exhaust welded on Tuesday, so some work to do this weekend

Will have a look at the compensator valve while I am under there.

Does anybody know if the valve is on both sides, or just the one?
 
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Sorry, just looked at the parts list from your other post and now know there is one on each side and the are different (obviously)

Long delivery time on them, so might take them off and give them a good clean, put them back on and see how the brakes are after that

Saturday is the only day in the next week where it shouldn’t rain, so gonna be a busy day for me
 
What I don’t understand is how it works, there is no lever or connection to it other than the brake pipes in and out

Has anybody had one apart to see what is in it?
 
Up to an operating pressure of 30Kg/cm2, the outlet pressure corresponds to the inlet one.
The increase in the inlet pressure, acting on the surfaces of the pressure regulator internal piston, causes it to move, decreasing the pressure in the rear circuit at a ratio of 0.25 for each wheel

So basically, take them off, soak them in WD-40, hit them with a hammer and cross fingers!
 
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