Technical How do you remove the dashboard & replace heater fan switch

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Technical How do you remove the dashboard & replace heater fan switch

Andyjamo

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Model
Punto Mk2 HLX
Year
2001
Mileage
66000
if you only want to replace the heater switch it might be the same sort of method as on a fiat Stilo?

 
It's a real pain in the buttock. You really don't want to drop the dash if you can help it, a world more pain, it's all one piece and involves removing the Speedo unit, an steering wheel etc. see the link below. Fine watchmakers screwdriver to release the tab on the connector through the gap is the way, but it will take you ages and lots of frustration. But it can be done.
 
The connectors have locking levers that need to be depressed to remove. They are orientated to the centre of the switch so not easy to get to. If you can't pull anymore slack forward you might have to cut some of the white plastic to get a tool in there. See the switch picture to see what you're dealing with. Your best bet is tackling it from the right hand side as you look at it.
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Hi

Been struggling to get this bugger out for a while so thanks for the guide, I have the switch loose but I can't get it out, the cable is too short, it comes out the full length of the switch but not far enough to get to the back.

Just in case I'm misunderstanding, I need to disconnect the electrical connectors by using a small screwdriver with the switch not fully out?

Dremmel and hack saw at the ready :)
 
It's a pain in the ass, but you have to depress the locking levers in the middle of the connectors, whilst pulling them out. I'm afraid if you have no more wire slack you have to get creative and brutal. All the white plastic is hidden when assembled back together so don't worry too much about damage. Work on the tightest connector first. Once it's released you may have more slack to get to the second. The big on is easiest to get a tool to. Drill a hole or 2 in the white plastic above. Just make sure no important cables or wires are there. The like a keyhole surgeon you can use something like an Allen key to push the tab down and a flat blade screwdriver to pry the connector out. It will be tight as it hasn't moved in 20 yrs. But when it starts to go it'll come easy. Then tackle the smaller one. You might have to take some of the white away on the right hand side and use the bent end of an Allen key to hook round and press the tab on that one.
Keep us updated of any progress. Pics would be good as well so we can see.
 
It's a pain in the ass, but you have to depress the locking levers in the middle of the connectors, whilst pulling them out. I'm afraid if you have no more wire slack you have to get creative and brutal. All the white plastic is hidden when assembled back together so don't worry too much about damage. Work on the tightest connector first. Once it's released you may have more slack to get to the second. The big on is easiest to get a tool to. Drill a hole or 2 in the white plastic above. Just make sure no important cables or wires are there. The like a keyhole surgeon you can use something like an Allen key to push the tab down and a flat blade screwdriver to pry the connector out. It will be tight as it hasn't moved in 20 yrs. But when it starts to go it'll come easy. Then tackle the smaller one. You might have to take some of the white away on the right hand side and use the bent end of an Allen key to hook round and press the tab on that one.
Keep us updated of any progress. Pics would be good as well so we can see.
 
Wow, brutal! Slightly more room made than I was inferring but it'll all be hidden.

Just read your symptoms on your other thread. You might have power to the switch but it needs to go to ground after the fan motor to complete the circuit. I'd bet you have a melted ground connector after the motor causing a high resistance. The voltage and thus power is/was being developed dropped over that connector causing it to heat up until it's no longer providing good continuity. Do you have a multimeter to hand?
 
With ignition switch on. Check for voltage at pin 1 of the motor plug. If present, reconnect and check for voltage at pin 5 of the big switch connector. If present check for good ground by doing resistance check pin 1 of the big switch connector to a known earth point such as the door strap bolts. Should be negligible resistance, if it is high that's your problem. Then you just got to follow the wire from the switch to find the bad connection.
 
With ignition switch on. Check for voltage at pin 1 of the motor plug. If present, reconnect and check for voltage at pin 5 of the big switch connector. If present check for good ground by doing resistance check pin 1 of the big switch connector to a known earth point such as the door strap bolts. Should be negligible resistance, if it is high that's your problem. Then you just got to follow the wire from the switch to find the bad connection.
Thanks for that, I have 12v motor plug to chassis earth, what are terminals in switch? 1-5 left to right looking from the back roound side up??
 
Thanks for that, I have 12v motor plug to chassis earth, what are terminals in switch? 1-5 left to right looking from the back roound side up??
For now I am connecting the 12v at motor plug with switch and running new earth, any suggestions for nearby earthing point, there is a bolt on top of the tunnel by handbrake that works?
 
I don't know 😶 one end will be 1 the other will be 5 check both ends.
The wire diagram indicates the pin 1 wire (ground) is black and pin 5 (supply) should be grey/black same as coming out from the motor connector.
 
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If you're running a new earth make sure the wire gauge is good and chunky and any structural bolt will be ok to go to. You could even go a bit more pro and crimp on a ring tongue. But the crimps you get from Halfords etc. can be iffy you have to really make sure they can't pull off.
 
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If you're running a new earth make sure the wire gauge is good and chunky and any structural bolt will be ok to go to. You could even go a bit more pro and crimp on a ring tongue. But the crimps you get from Halfords etc. can be iffy you have to really make sure they can't pull off.
Thanks for all the help, looks like a duff earth, confirmed by none of the heater control bulbs light up and they share common earth (found wiring diagram on here) .Wired in separate switch and earthed to body so have fan on max speed. For now may be forever :), not going to rip dash out to find the break
 
Cool glad you have some airflow now. I'm sure you're sick of it now, but if the urge to fix it to full functioning gets to you check this old guide. 100 to 1 this is the connector that's knackered, no need to strip the dash. Just cut the black wires either side of the connector and join together with crimp, choc block etc.
 
Cool glad you have some airflow now. I'm sure you're sick of it now, but if the urge to fix it to full functioning gets to you check this old guide. 100 to 1 this is the connector that's knackered, no need to strip the dash. Just cut the black wires either side of the connector and join together with crimp, choc block etc.
Thanks, I saw that post but can't see that type of connector, will have another look, thanks again :)
 
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