Technical Clutch replacement - do you need to remove both wheels?

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Technical Clutch replacement - do you need to remove both wheels?

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Sep 9, 2008
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Ashford, Kent
First off, I actually have a Fiat Idea, but seeing as mechanically it is very similar I thought I would post here. Mods, if you are not happy with this please move it.
I thought I would only need to remove the nearside wheel assembly to replace the clutch, so I parked the car up on stands as close to my fence as possible to give me plenty of room. I have never done a clutch change, so when my father-in-law who is a mechanical engineer came around yesterday to help he said that I would need to take the driver's side wheel off as well to enable removal of the drive shaft on that side.
I either now have to remove the neighbour's fence or jack the car and pull it sideways. I have already removed the gearbox/engine mount.
Is it possible to mate the bell housing back in, once we have replaced the clutch by having somone under the car hold the offside driveshaft in position?
Has anyone done this? is it a mad idea?
The car is acutally a Dualogic, so I am videoing the process extensively and will put together a guide.
 
First off, I actually have a Fiat Idea, but seeing as mechanically it is very similar I thought I would post here. Mods, if you are not happy with this please move it.
I thought I would only need to remove the nearside wheel assembly to replace the clutch, so I parked the car up on stands as close to my fence as possible to give me plenty of room. I have never done a clutch change, so when my father-in-law who is a mechanical engineer came around yesterday to help he said that I would need to take the driver's side wheel off as well to enable removal of the drive shaft on that side.
I either now have to remove the neighbour's fence or jack the car and pull it sideways. I have already removed the gearbox/engine mount.
Is it possible to mate the bell housing back in, once we have replaced the clutch by having somone under the car hold the offside driveshaft in position?
Has anyone done this? is it a mad idea?
The car is acutally a Dualogic, so I am videoing the process extensively and will put together a guide.
most people take off the inner CV boot and allow the joint to separate and leave the cup only on the gearbox. I never did it that way but most here seem to do it that way. One thing to note is if you take the driveshaft out completely it can be a total pig to get it back in the gearbox again. I have always managed but you need a bit of faith to believe it is going to eventually go in sometimes.
 
most people take off the inner CV boot and allow the joint to separate and leave the cup only on the gearbox. I never did it that way but most here seem to do it that way. One thing to note is if you take the driveshaft out completely it can be a total pig to get it back in the gearbox again. I have always managed but you need a bit of faith to believe it is going to eventually go in sometimes.
I have never disassembled to this level, so excuse my ignorance. So basically you are separating the CV joint from the driveshaft? So the CV joint stays mounted into the gearbox?
 
I have never disassembled to this level, so excuse my ignorance. So basically you are separating the CV joint from the driveshaft? So the CV joint stays mounted into the gearbox?
i am confusing you a bit. The driveshaft has two joints. The idea is one part of the inner joint stays on the gearbox. BUT to do it without removing the garden fence you still have to reconnect the joint as the gearbox goes into position which is going to be next to impossible maybe. Just lifting and lining up the bellhousing can be a pain in a drive way situation.

With a trolley jack if there is two of you you can pull the car away from the fence without two much difficulty i think
 
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I haven't done it this way either, but I agree with judderbar, it should be possible.

1. Disconnect the lower wishbone from the upright (is this possible with wheel on? Not sure), so strut can pivot away from the gearbox
2. Remove clip from inner CV joint boot (the big clip, next to the diff. You'll need to replace this clip, can use a zip tie, do NOT use Jubilee clip as the screw can hit the gearbox)
3. Slide driveshaft out of the plunge joint left in the gearbox

I'm a bit confused though. How were you hoping to remove the gearbox without disconnecting both driveshafts?
 
I'm a bit confused though. How were you hoping to remove the gearbox without disconnecting both driveshafts?
...because I was being thick. My focus was so much on everything being on the nearside - Dualogic/gearbox/bell housing etc. that I decided to stick the car up agains the fence to give me plenty of room. This is the first time I have ever attempted a clutch change.
When my father-in-law comes we will drag the car into the centre of the drive. It's going to be maybe next Saturday so I will update this thread later.
 
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I hope you don't mind my asking, how familiar are you with the DuaLogic?

I understand it will need recalibration with software after a clutch change.

And the robot can also benefit from regular servicing.

Any symptoms that led to diagnosing a worn out clutch?

Plenty of info on here if you need any help :)
 
I hope you don't mind my asking, how familiar are you with the DuaLogic?

I understand it will need recalibration with software after a clutch change.

And the robot can also benefit from regular servicing.

Any symptoms that led to diagnosing a worn out clutch?

Plenty of info on here if you need any help :)
I have read pretty much everything I can over the last 15 years about the workings of the system, from Russian experts to Brazilian ones. The unit is 20 years old. The only problem it has ever given is the dropping into neutral under strong braking. It has never had an error message.
The clutch is the original and has done almost 110,000 miles. Funny enough, the Russian expert reckons Dualogics hammer the clutch – I disagree.

This is the reason I am changing the clutch... watch this video to appreciate the sounds and resultant smoke!

 
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