General How do i overide start stop on automatic 1.2

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General How do i overide start stop on automatic 1.2

Bjm38 , I passed my test years ago, touch wood never had a bump or accident, never even had a speeding fine . Passed my test in a manual and drove automatic since . It makes perfect sense to me , 2 pedals 2 feet , why use 1 foot to go between. It's much different in a manual, but 1 foot does 2 jobs .
 
I had a little practise today with the hill starts, and it think h/brake was best. I also think I was praps a little to quick off the mark expecting the car to be ready to go , when it wasn't prepared, I think I should have given more revs before trying to take off , thus causing the rollback . You live n learn
 
I had a little practise today with the hill starts, and it think h/brake was best. I also think I was praps a little to quick off the mark expecting the car to be ready to go , when it wasn't prepared, I think I should have given more revs before trying to take off , thus causing the rollback . You live n learn

Good on you for persevering and being prepared to adapt your driving style to suit the car. (y)

Personally I'd agree that using the handbrake would seem the most natural way to hold the car when doing a hill start. That said, if other folks find it easier to use the footbrake, I can't think of a good reason not to use what works for them. Just don't try to hold the car on a hill for ages on engine power alone, as that will do no good at all to the clutch.

Conventional automatics with a fluid filled torque converter are different in that the transmission can by design slip without causing any wear at all, so they can safely use engine power to hold the car on a hill.

The big advantage of Fiat's system is that it avoids the inherent power loss of a torque converter, so there's no economy penalty in having a dualogic box :).
 
It's about 1.5 miles from home to the local Asda - if active, with sufficient battery charge available, the Start-Stop would be called upon to operate maybe 10 times. I simply don't see how the alternator could replenish the charge lost. The system was looked at by the dealer who reached the same conclusion as me - Start-Stop simply isn't viable due to the car's pattern of use.

Some math for you:

Starter motor draw ~746W
Time to start engine ~1 seconds

746W/3600=0.2 Wh to restart your engine.

Stop lights draw 67W if you stop for 30 seconds with you foot on the brake you've used 0.55Wh

Yes folks restarting your engine uses less power than the brake lights on a short stop.

Alt output 60A = 720W
Time to replenish 0.2Wh into the battery: 1.02 seconds.
Even if the battery's charge acceptance is only C/10, that would still be only 10 seconds to restore full charge.

Since you need to accelerate to at least 8km/h after a S/S to reactivate it, it would be very difficult to end up with a charge deficit. Furthermore the intelegent alt fitted to S/S cars ramps up the voltage prior to a stop just to help things out further.

FWIW, BMW and Ford say S/S saves fuel on any stop longer than 3/5 seconds. I don't remember which was which.
 
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S/S would drive me crazy- tried it, not a fan...

Hi, and welcome :)

I didn't bother reading this thread as the "obvious answer" was = button on dash

However , of course.., it's NEVER that simple.

surprised it took so long for somebody to actually give the mechanical reasoning for it rolling back :rolleyes:

you are basically in a manual with the clutch depressed.. why else wouldn't you use the foot/handbrake combo..:confused:

glad the OP is now a little more confident with it.. :)

as the layout/ features of their new car become more familiar.. I'm sure they will get to appreciate how the ECO, and Stop-start buttons can really effect the daily use of the car,(y)

Charlie - Oxford
 
Some math for you:

Starter motor draw ~746W
Time to start engine ~1 seconds

746W/3600=0.2 Wh to restart your engine.

Fag packet maths which I doubt would stand up to much scrutiny. The motor rating's one thing, the current draw required to get the engine turning is quite another. But then I'm a drainage engineer, not an electrical one.

Simple fact is, the battery has been recharged at the dealers a couple of times and the car has behaved the same way afterwards. Start-Stop begins restarting the engine after a few seconds, after which it doesn't engage at all. As this happens during one journey, and with no ancillary items such as AC or rear heater in use, it's reasonable to suspect that Start-Stop has drained the battery below a system-set threshold beyond which it is inhibited. The fact that the battery has maintained sufficient charge to operate the car for several months afterwards suggests that there's no underlying fault in the charging loop.

Were I to copy your strategy of switching off the engine and restarting it at every stop, I would pretty soon find myself calling the breakdown people.

At least the Morris has a starting handle.

BJM
 
Fag packet maths which I doubt would stand up to much scrutiny. The motor rating's one thing, the current draw required to get the engine turning is quite another. But then I'm a drainage engineer, not an electrical one.

I've measured peak current, and my assistant accidentally turned the car over with the car in gear. Even then the current only registered peak of 80A, so turning over the engine and moving the car only took 1120W. The inrush current is probably over 200A, but it's only for millisecond. I had to TEST this to make sure my DIY lithium battery was not being over stressed.

Simple fact is, the battery has been recharged at the dealers a couple of times and the car has behaved the same way afterwards. Start-Stop begins restarting the engine after a few seconds, after which it doesn't engage at all. As this happens during one journey, and with no ancillary items such as AC or rear heater in use, it's reasonable to suspect that Start-Stop has drained the battery below a system-set threshold beyond which it is inhibited.

Reasonable assumptions can still be wrong. After I switched back to the stock battery, I couldn't get S/S working. Since I was at the dealer anyway I got them to reset it and they also charged the battery. Guess what? They couldn't get S/S working. The next day S/S kicked in, only to restart immediately. This happened all day (~30km). The following day I decided to do my own IBM reset and guess what? Perfect working S/S since (as long as the car is not allowed to sit for long). If S/S had drained the battery, the IBM reset would have done jack.

The fact that the battery has maintained sufficient charge to operate the car for several months afterwards suggests that there's no underlying fault in the charging loop.

No one said there was. S/S does require a high level of charge, and the car sitting idle is it's biggest enemy.

Were I to copy your strategy of switching off the engine and restarting it at every stop, I would pretty soon find myself calling the breakdown people.

You know this how?
 
Simple fact is, the battery has been recharged at the dealers a couple of times and the car has behaved the same way afterwards. Start-Stop begins restarting the engine after a few seconds, after which it doesn't engage at all. As this happens during one journey, and with no ancillary items such as AC or rear heater in use, it's reasonable to suspect that Start-Stop has drained the battery below a system-set threshold beyond which it is inhibited. The fact that the battery has maintained sufficient charge to operate the car for several months afterwards suggests that there's no underlying fault in the charging loop.


I'm sorry, but you simply don't seem to really understand what's going on here. You forget the IBS as UFI points out.


Anyway, here's what the manual says.


https://www.fiatforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123536

Failing that, the footbrake is just as easy to use.....
 
I hate how a simple reply of "give it a few days or weeks to adjust to the way the car handles take off." Being a dual logic you need to treat it kind of like a manual in some ways. Give a little more throttle at these points then on flat surfaces.

As some have mentioned the car should come with hill hold... But this doesn't activate unless on quite a reasonable incline, you will feel it... Kind of like accelerating with the park brake on for a few seconds...

The fiat 500 really is an interesting beast... Don't take the banter to heart. Enjoy!
 
Its interesting how you say treat it like a manual.If the stop start does not kick in and I think I might be stationary for some time I always put it in Neutral.
Also I have always used the handbrake from day one.
Although I don't understand how its works, I think its can't do the clutch any good just sitting there balancing.
 
You know this how?

The behaviour of the Start-Stop system clearly indicates that it is discharging the car's battery beyond the capability of the alternator to replenish lost charge. I care not to experiment.

BJM
 
The behaviour of the Start-Stop system clearly indicates that it is discharging the car's battery beyond the capability of the alternator to replenish lost charge. I care not to experiment.

BJM
False logic/reasoning. The reason why people's batteries are low on juice is because the batteries weren't charged properly on PDI or they don't do the required mileage to keep the batteries topped up.


When S&S works then it generally keeps on working, ergo it doesn't discharge the battery.
 
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