General Help, Big Repair bill...

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General Help, Big Repair bill...

Digi Dreamer

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Dec 14, 2005
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Hi, needing urgent advice,

Sump collapsed, metal moths been busy,, Garage has quoted a 2000-pound repair bill to replace the VVT pulley, Oil Pick up and pump, Sump,

the cars a 2014 panda 1.2 pop, stalled turning a corner, car began to run rough, had grounded on a speed hump a few days earlier. last oil check about 1 month ago, minor top up.

no oil warning light came on.

thought the cam belt had slipped, cars only done 37000 miles drove a few miles home watching for the oil light, took 2 ltrs of oil when i got home, had a P0016 fault code, now cleared

the garage retimed the cam belt, said the VVT ran dry. engine runs smooth but fast

what are my options, hoping just a new sump and VVT pulley. how can i test the old pulley

got 3 days till my MOT runs out, and which timing tools do i need to replace the pulley.
any advice?
 
looking serious, dry when the sump was done,

PXL_20221222_190341405.jpg
 
looking serious, dry when the sump was done,

View attachment 416477
I don't know the 1.2 engine but I do see oil on the exhaust clamp as well as the engine/gearbox casting. Since the two are not physically connected this says to me its dripping down from somewhere also it will burn off the exhaust quickly when running so this is leaking when engine off and cold? Is there a valve cover leak that occurred when VVT was being "sorted"? Twisted gasket?
 
My first Panda was a 2005 4x4 with the earlier (non VVT) 1.2 engine. It developed an oil leak from the rocker cover rubber seal at the gearbox end of the engine which led to oil dripping as you see. I replaced the seal three times with non Fiat parts, better each time but never right. In the end I bought the genuine Fiat part and the leak stopped. Is this your issue?
 
I've used gasket maker silicone (black or orange Permatex) on the valve cover gasket (rocker cover) and I've had zero leaks even with a cheap spare part gasket from Corteco. I probably used a little too much and some of it probably made its way into the bottom of the sump but there's no leaks. 💡 Less is more when using silicone.
 
daf, wasn't that the car that could reverse at the same speed as it could forwards, constantly variable gearbox
Yup. The earlier ones were infinitely variable to max speed in either directions. I can assure you though that in reverse at any real speed it was very difficult to stop it wanting to swap ends! Later versions (the 46 and 66 if I remember correctly?) and the Volvo badged variants were limited so you couldn't do it - The Volvo "supersafety" influence I suppose?

Anyone, probably you younger forum members, can you tube "DAF Variomatic" where you'll find some excellent videos showing how the variomatic transmission worked. Quite interesting viewing if you haven't previously encountered DAF's early attempts at CVT. It actually worked pretty well but the drive belts had to be matched pairs or the car would pull to one side at low speeds and the belts themselves - like big fan belts really - could have lasted longer. I remember when Volvo acquired DAF Cars I was actually working for a DAF agent at the time and the parts prices, especially for belt sets, went through the roof. Shortly after that Volvo wanted us to spend "stupid" amounts of money on our showroom and outside appearance so the boss jacked in the franchise and became a Polski Fiat dealer. I left shortly afterwards!
 
I've used gasket maker silicone (black or orange Permatex) on the valve cover gasket (rocker cover) and I've had zero leaks even with a cheap spare part gasket from Corteco. I probably used a little too much and some of it probably made its way into the bottom of the sump but there's no leaks. 💡 Less is more when using silicone.
Silicon sealant in the corners, applied sparingly, is the way I do it. Used genuine and factor supplied gaskets and not had any leaks
 
looking wet inside the bell housing, probability high of crank end seal being away.., rocker cover dry except around filler. not looking good..
 
not covered, clutch dust with a bit of oil, would expect more if the seal had failed.. not enough to clean the dust off, could be splashes onto the fly wheel.
 
No oil inside the bellhousing except at the bottom. It’s likely the input and main seals are fine

Being trying to think of an easy next step

I think the only option is to remove
These


97D331C7-E5E2-47FE-ACAC-852E999A9505.jpeg


And visible check if the oil is only below the level of the sump joint
5AEA0ADA-E6DF-42A6-9B5A-5F28A794C03F.jpeg
 
i know the plate well, had to by a straight 19mm spanner especially for the stay bar, couldn't get a socket on because the exhaust was still attached at the time..
 
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