Technical Head gasket blown, balancing options, little money

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Technical Head gasket blown, balancing options, little money

Yes

Plus none standard service parts are expensive

Just this is close to £200

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Which puts it out of a DIY repair viability

I have rebuilt a nissan bluebird gearbox, through lack of availability. At the moment a 1.2 panda or 500 isn't that hard to come by, I paid £60 for one a couple of years ago

People have put insane amount of torque through these gearboxes,on the dragstrip much more than a ford cosworth, without any problems, most issues are caused by low oil over heating the bearing cage causing it to collapse, driven well and maintained they have been known to last 1/2 million miles, I had two that have done 1/4 million
 
Yes

Plus none standard service parts are expensive

Just this is close to £200

View attachment 450816

Which puts it out of a DIY repair viability

I have rebuilt a nissan bluebird gearbox, through lack of availability. At the moment a 1.2 panda or 500 isn't that hard to come by, I paid £60 for one a couple of years ago

People have put insane amount of torque through these gearboxes,on the dragstrip much more than a ford cosworth, without any problems, most issues are caused by low oil over heating the bearing cage causing it to collapse, driven well and maintained they have been known to last 1/2 million miles, I had two that have done 1/4 million
Holy moly o had no idea these transmissions were that long living!!

I’m in that phase where, after doing the HG and the timing pretty much myself (with some supervision to make sure I didn’t actually do something silly) I’m trying to think about how I could train myself to do almost anything on this little panda

Next I’m looking at the fuel/charging system as I still have occasional rough idle and that stutter when idling and I put headlights on

Then the suspension

Then treating rust underneath

I’d really love to keep this car as long as possible

On payday I’m trying to get a pre-mot so I can start budgeting if if needs anything come December
 
Since the HG and p0016 code are resolved, would it be reasonable to move to another thread if I still am working on the remaining bugs?

I feel sentimental about this thread and so grateful for everyone who helped me keep my car alive during a really difficult time
 
Thank you so much to everyone who helped with this problem

I am not even an amateur, but the kindness and consideration shown on this platform really has had an impact on me, not to mention getting me through a very difficult rough patch where my job actually depended on me having my car.

From the very bottom of my heart, thank you.

❤️🐼
 
(Sorry to reopen a thread)

Does anyone know if I can use this on the panda?

I saw someone saying not to pour into expansion tank when using it, but I think that’s my only option for my Panda

In any case, I’m really trying to de-rust the car and the engine as much as I can
 

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Terribly sorry to reopen this thread —

I think it may have blown again.

I made the mistake of overfilling it with oil a good bit (I think I misread something or measured wrong) and when I reved by accident past 4000rpm to get into first, I saw white smoke behind me, and then it was stuttering like it used to.

I just changed the plugs and it’s evident oil got into a cylinder as the plug was covered in it, but it’s been heating up a lot faster than before and nearly stalled out at a light.

Is there a chance that accidental over-reving plus too much oil can blow the gasket?
 
For context, this happened last Friday.

As far as the repair goes, I don’t know what we could have done wrong — we did it all to a T and then it was running magnitudes better and rarely heated up to half way (and I did make sure to bleed it like the manuals told me)
 
I’ve scheduled to bring it in tomorrow for them to do the coolant/combustion fumes test, and I’ve ordered a new gasket and head bolts in case that’s what’s up (I can return them free of charge if not)
 
Too much oil can
Terribly sorry to reopen this thread —

I think it may have blown again.

I made the mistake of overfilling it with oil a good bit (I think I misread something or measured wrong) and when I reved by accident past 4000rpm to get into first, I saw white smoke behind me, and then it was stuttering like it used to.

I just changed the plugs and it’s evident oil got into a cylinder as the plug was covered in it, but it’s been heating up a lot faster than before and nearly stalled out at a light.

Is there a chance that accidental over-reving plus too much oil can blow the gasket?
Let's start at the begining

These engines are saved to rev to 6000

Over filling with oil you should hear as the bottom end hits the oul
 
I saw white smoke behind me
This is a sure sign that oil has got past the piston rings into the cylinder. Oil is incompressible, so if more oil gets into the cylinder than the available space at TDC, something is going to break.

If you are very lucky, you will get away with this and the excess oil will just be burnt in the exhaust.

If you are moderately lucky, the HG will give way.

The worst case scenario is that you'll bend a conrod, in which case the engine is probably best just scrapped.
 
This is a sure sign that oil has got past the piston rings into the cylinder. Oil is incompressible, so if more oil gets into the cylinder than the available space at TDC, something is going to break.

If you are very lucky, you will get away with this and the excess oil will just be burnt in the exhaust.

If you are moderately lucky, the HG will give way.

The worst case scenario is that you'll bend a conrod, in which case the engine is probably best just scrapped.
Holy crap

How can I remove excess oil?
 
This is a sure sign that oil has got past the piston rings into the cylinder. Oil is incompressible, so if more oil gets into the cylinder than the available space at TDC, something is going to break.

If you are very lucky, you will get away with this and the excess oil will just be burnt in the exhaust.

If you are moderately lucky, the HG will give way.

The worst case scenario is that you'll bend a conrod, in which case the engine is probably best just scrapped.
I’m also guessing if a Conroe broke, I’d notice it, right?
 
Easiest way is to suck it out through the dipstick hole, but you need something suitable to do this with. I would use a vacuum brake bleeder for this.
I’ve already drained all the oil and fixed that — but how can I remove it from cylinders?
 
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