Getting to know our latest family member.

[StevenRB45]

Yeah, due next year.

Will depend on your motor factor, it's not hugely uncommon...but it's not common place either.

If not plenty of places can supply it online and it's not fearsomely expensive, not sure how much Mazda charge to be honest but they tend to stock skyactiv things these days which are not necessarily the same as your car is pre-skyactiv era.

MX5 Parts & Spares - Product Review For - Coolant, Premixed FL22 Longlife, 5 Ltrs, MX5 Mk3 3.5 3.75 & Mk4 MX5 Parts

www.mx5parts.co.uk

 

[StevenRB45]

Battery wise, original would have been unmarked white with black top and a row of fill ports along the top (not maintenance free).

Personally, these aren't hard to start in general, it's a small petrol with pretty low compression ratios you can get away with a weak battery for some time.

Generally if the battery is weak you'll feel it on low speed maneuvers as you pull the clutch in and dip the revs after starting.

Unlike Fiat it won't throw a persistent steering warning but you may get a moment of the light coming on and/or heavy steering. If dipping the clutch fixes it immediately battery is not happy.

Very much up to you, if it's used regularly it could soldier on for years, but if it's not and a period of low use proceeds a cold snap you might have an issue.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Battery wise, original would have been unmarked white with black top and a row of fill ports along the top (not maintenance free).

Personally, these aren't hard to start in general, it's a small petrol with pretty low compression ratios you can get away with a weak battery for some time.

Generally if the battery is weak you'll feel it on low speed maneuvers as you pull the clutch in and dip the revs after starting.

Unlike Fiat it won't throw a persistent steering warning but you may get a moment of the light coming on and/or heavy steering. If dipping the clutch fixes it immediately battery is not happy.

Very much up to you, if it's used regularly it could soldier on for years, but if it's not and a period of low use proceeds a cold snap you might have an issue.

Thanks for the info on the coolant

As to the battery, a couple of times on my brake bedding in test drive, while turning out of side turnings on a tight lock, I felt a wee "strange" feedback feeling through the steering wheel. Nearest I can describe would be that it felt like gear wheels climbing over themselves but not really. slightly sort of faint pulsing effect - very difficult to describe. However might very well be a power steering "thing" if the battery is low enough. I'll monitor battery voltage while turning lock to lock and see what it shows.

The more I'm thinking about it the more I think this battery might be the cause - thanks for putting the idea into my head. You'd think, with it being such a common thing on our FIATs, that I'd have thought about it right away! I'll plead for leniency as the steering wheel light is not illuminating?

 

[StevenRB45]

I'd suggest properly kicking it in the shins then.

Lights on, lock to lock at stationary while idling. If the idle becomes rough or it stalls, and steering weight is up and down battery is done

Edit...you've basically said the same thing but you're clearly more scientific than me...

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I'd suggest properly kicking it in the shins then.

Lights on, lock to lock at stationary while idling. If the idle becomes rough or it stalls, battery is done.

Edit...you've basically said the same thing but you're clearly more scientific than me...

Just occurs to me that I may have defeated myself by charging it up yesterday! Anyway, I'll give it a go and see if I get a result.

 

[StevenRB45]

Think these got a "proper" fully electric rack.

The 3 had an electro hydraulic system of an electric pump running a hydraulic system but you'd know if you had that as you'd have a hydraulic reservoir and at low speed it sounds like the noise you associate with an old Bmw Mini doing a 3 point turn, high pitched whine.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Think these got a "proper" fully electric rack.

The 3 had an electro hydraulic system of an electric pump running a hydraulic system but you'd know if you had that as you'd have a hydraulic reservoir and at low speed it sounds like the noise you associate with an old Bmw Mini doing a 3 point turn, high pitched whine.

No noise, no reservoir - none that I see anyway.

edit. Oh, and no "weird" juddery effects either. Maybe it is that battery. Haven't tried a meter on it yet though.

 

[StevenRB45]

If they've gone away after you charged the battery that would point to battery involvement. Or it might be you've just not replicated the circumstances.

Not entirely sure what low battery on the electric rack feels like, as said mine was electro hydraulic where it made it's presence felt by the assistance getting weaker and stronger if revs were low before the car compensated and picked them back up.

A few times I thought I'd stalled it as steering went solid and battery and steering light came on...but it then came back to life as revs picked up. Obviously though unlikely you'll get anything that dramatic on a freshly charged battery.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

If they've gone away after you charged the battery that would point to battery involvement. Or it might be you've just not replicated the circumstances.

Not entirely sure what low battery on the electric rack feels like, as said mine was electro hydraulic where it made it's presence felt by the assistance getting weaker and stronger if revs were low before the car compensated and picked them back up.

A few times I thought I'd stalled it as steering went solid and battery and steering light came on...but it then came back to life as revs picked up. Obviously though unlikely you'll get anything that dramatic on a freshly charged battery.

Luckily we see them at least once a week when we take the grandchildren swimming. So I'll tell her to keep a watch out for it and tell me if she notices anything. With the battery now fully charged if it doesn't do it for a wee while but then comes back it'll be a bit of a pointer towards the battery. In a way I rather hope it is the battery because if it's not it may be something much more complicated to sort out!

 

[StevenRB45]

Don't think I've ever heard of an electric rack failure on one...

Obviously doesn't mean it's impossible but rare certainly.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Don't think I've ever heard of an electric rack failure on one...

Obviously doesn't mean it's impossible but rare certainly.

Ah well, we shall find out all in good time. In the meantime just let it develop a wee bit madam, until there's something more defined we can get to grips with! - I can just hear myself saying that to customers!

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Don't think I've ever heard of an electric rack failure on one...

Obviously doesn't mean it's impossible but rare certainly.

Think you're probably right - re fully electric power steering and reliability.

My youngest and his family are driving back from "sunny" Devon tomorrow so I'd thought I would take the Mazda back out to his house this afternoon. However Mrs J has decided to go shopping and I know I'll not see her 'till late afternoon which would mean a rush hour journey and I'm not doing that. She needs to drive one of the other cars out there to bring me back. I could take the bus back, but being out of the city their service isn't so frequent and I'd have to change somewhere on the way to get back across town to where we are. Almost certainly wouldn't make it without a pee stop and most of the public loos are either closed or cost a fortune now, so I'm not doing that either. We'll run it back out tomorrow morning.

Of course that leaves the car with me to fiddle with if I want. So decided to try out testing the voltage drop when the power steering is working - by the way, it's definitely fully electric Steven. I decided to test it against what voltages were showing on the Ibiza which is also fully electric - can't use the Panda because "the girls" have gone shopping together. So fished out my lightweight extension leads:

They can be connected together in various ways to give various options and because the connectors are just simple "ciggy lighter" sockets you can easily and cheaply make other adaptors.

Anyway, on this instance I simply connected then all together to give me the length to get from the battery through the N/S front window and allow me to connect my Multimeter to the croc clips on the piece of wood - piece of wood is there to stop the two croc clips catastrophically coming together when the other end is connected to the battery - also makes it easy to apply the multimeter probes. So, all connected up, engine running and head lights on (maybe I should have put the rear screen demist on too, but I forgot. Then wound the steering wheel steadily, so as to load the steering motor, from lock to lock a couple of times.

Results?
Both cars registered slightly over 14 volts with engine running and hands off the steering. I was totally amazed to find almost no detectable change in voltage when the steering motors in either car were working? I double checked my connections. I chose to go for the battery positive connection on both cars and a chassis earth for the negative because both cars have stop start battery condition monitors but it would make no difference going to the battery neg terminal in terms of voltage observed - just mentioning it for the record. and although I only tested the Ibiza once, lock to lock and back to the middle, I did it several times with the Mazda - steady at just over 14 volts all day long!

Only difference observed was that the Ibiza was at 12.7 volts resting open circuit before the engine was started - and it hasn't run since Tuesday when we went out to bring the Mazda back here. The Mazda was showing 12.1 volts again, as it did when I first checked it a couple of days ago. This despite it being charged for over half a day on my Ctek and showing fully charged on that machine. The car turns over quickly and starts easily, but the weather is nice and warm just now. I think we may be looking at a new battery for the winter on these findings. Note to self, do some more work on Mrs J regarding releasing funds to buy a TOPDON BT 200!

I found the info sticker on the battery by the way 53 AH with 470 cranking amps, I'll bet Halfords will do me a Yuasa for that at a good price.

And after all that steering wheel turning, the feeling is just the same. However, because I've been concentrating on it so much I've been thinking hard about what it might be. Yes, maybe something to do with intermittent power being applied. Maybe something like if a couple of segments on a commutator were damaged? Hmm? But then it hit me! Many columns have a universal joint where the column links to the rack don't they? If the U/J was worn the "tumbling" action of a worn one would feel very much like this wouldn't it? So I tried You Tubeing it and this came up:



Sounds like it's a known thing with them? Probably found the problem then? Don't fancy doing it and I think this old body probably isn't up to the physical contortions needed so I'll ask his local garage: https://pride-motor-engineers.business.site/ another garage where I'm a "known face", to take a look and sort it out. If it is what I now think it is I don't want it being used for too long before it gets fixed.

Edit. Hope there's a generic OE quality part available. That Mazda genuine parts price makes me go weak at the knees!

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Oh deary me! Just rang SRS and they don't list it, "looks like a main dealer only part pal" said he! Better prepare Mrs J to sell one of her many diamond rings Ha Ha. Got to laugh haven't you?

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Just turned this one up:



Same setup on ours. Noticed on ours that there's moly grease smeared all around the sliding joint. Wonder if someone did that to try to stop the noise before selling it to us? Haven't tried tightening that bottom U/J bolt because there's a shield over it preventing access and my back's hurting me now. I'll just have to be "sensible" and let Keith at PME have a look at it

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

By the way, if anyone is interested, I've mentioned in the past that my younger boy, Husband of Mazda owner, is a self employed signwriter. He specializes in vehicles. If you open the link to PME (pride Motor engineers) I gave above you'll see some of his work. He does all of the sign work for them. He mostly does everyday stuff like this but he can also do a complete vehicle wrap if you want, cheaper than a respray and probably last longer than a cheap respray. How's about carbon fibre effect anyone? He did carbon fibre effect dashboard and around the centre consol on a big new BMW the other day and it looked wonderful!

Unusually these days, when most use super looking generic illustrations, all the images in the PME link above are of their actual premisis.

 

[StevenRB45]

Oh deary me! Just rang SRS and they don't list it, "looks like a main dealer only part pal" said he! Better prepare Mrs J to sell one of her many diamond rings Ha Ha. Got to laugh haven't you?

Mazda things.....

A conversation I have had a few times.

A quick Google did suggest this might be an issue the other night but lack of knocking etc. Stopped me from suggesting it.

Doesn't happen on 3s due to different steering system.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Mazda things.....

A conversation I have had a few times.

A quick Google did suggest this might be an issue the other night but lack of knocking etc. Stopped me from suggesting it.

Doesn't happen on 3s due to different steering system.

Yes, it's not quite like is being described in the video but, on balance, I think it's the most likely culprit. Certainly worth getting our chap to have a squint at it I think.

 

[jackwhoo]

I suppose my opinion is coloured because my introduction to disc rear brakes was on my boy's old Fabia where they would seize up at the slightest excuse. They were well known for it and the recommended fix was to fit new calipers. I spent hours dismantling and freeing them up only for them to be partially seized again a few weeks later. Then someone, genuinely can't remember who, but most likely someone at AVW, told me you could incorporate the return springs fitted as standard to the Sharan/Galaxy/Alhambra. I bought a set, they fitted externally and roughly doubled the return force and the problem was solved. Wasted many hours getting there though.

However I find rear discs rotors often get condemned long before they have actually worn out because they have rusted long before they should and that annoys me.

I've had considerable success with the screw thread type drum adjusters by lightly oiling them with a fairly thin oil but I'll give you that drum self adjusters are a bit of an achilles heel - probably cheaper to sort though if you're not paying labour?

Hi all,

Slow response by me due to migraines.

With the type of shoe self adjuster pictured when fitting new shoes it is essential to manually wind the adjuster to get the shoes close to the drum . If the shoes are a long way from the drum the adjuster won't work.

Vag group use a fantastic self adjuster system with no rotating parts. Don't know when first used but def on mk2 golf age and onwards.

Best to all
J

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Jack, I sympathize with you over the migraines, a very nasty thing to have to endure. I suffered terribly with them as a kid, Half vision to start with and then I knew I had about 15 minutes to crawl into bed and pull the covers over my head before the pain came. I've no idea, maybe hormones? but it all stopped at puberty, thank goodness.

Anyway, I was always taught to lever the shoe/turn the adjuster/ or whatever until the new shoes were just "kissing" the drum and then, after refitting the drum stomp on the brake pedal and work the handbrake lever up and down a few times to settle all the parts and then double check the drum is free, the brake holds when applied and these's not too much free play in the cables. As I gained experience I modified this somewhat because, as you'll know, some ratchet up when the foot brake is pressed and some work when the hand brake is worked, but if you do what I was taught to do all those years ago you're unlikely to have problems.

I remember one particularly "nasty" type which worked on the balance bar between the shoes which was also what the handbrake cable worked on. With the handbrake in the fully off position, as the wheel cylinder forced the shoes apart they would extend the balance bar which incorporated a splined ratchet, the teeth would ride over each other if there was slack in the system until the shoes were gripping the drum. When the pressure was relaxed the return springs would pull the shoes back until the ratchet teeth set into each other and stopped the shoes retracting any further, No a bad idea really. The problem was that when the handbrake was pulled on it used the balance bar to push against the shoes and this put a great load on the ratchet teeth which would strip, giving a long pull up on the lever. Unfortunately, when the handbrake was let off again, the self adjuster's teeth, now being stripped (or more often partially stripped) could not hold the shoes in correct adjustment and, to the driver's great surprise and consternation, the pedal would go almost to the floor. So, one minute the car had a good pedal and, sometimes on the very next application, the pedal would go to the floor, or very near the floor. The customer often looked as white as a sheet if you were dispatched in the breakdown truck to "save" them.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Well, took the Mazda back out to it's home south east of the city and it was a most enjoyable drive. Earlier in the week, when I collected it and drove it back into the city, to our house, in the knowledge that twice it had failed to start for my daughter in law, I was concerned about getting stranded during the journey so I avoided the main roads and went in the back way along the A7 briefly and through the dreaded Sheriff Hall roundabout, down the Wisp on the A6106 and straight on down to the Harry Lauder Road A199 and so along the sea front past all the big car sales rooms, through the Leith dock area and eventually home. All the time I'm hoping she's not going to cut out but, at the same time taking the opportunity to see how she's driving. First thing is the steering wheel is very slightly turned to the right when going straight. It's not much, just a couple if degrees, and she's never mentioned it, but something to look into. The clutch is heavy and the bite point is quite low - don't know Mazdas and don't know if this is normal but doesn't feel quite right to me. Otherwise all good, steering doesn't pull at all and the car drives nicely with good throttle response, no nasty mechanical noises from engine, gearbox or suspension. feels nice and "tight".

I've already mentioned what I found and did to her in the thread above so won't repeat here. Suffice to say today I'm setting out for the drive with much more confidence in the wee car and looking forward to it.

I decided to take our usual route out to their house which is down through the dock area and along the A199 to Portobello and along the Harry Lauder road all the way until it becomes the A1. Then follow that out to the big interchange with the A720 City Bypass where we go right onto the bypass for a short distance then take the left onto the A68 This road is flat and fast - national speed limit - it's flat until you go through the Salter's Road interchange where it starts to climb out of the Forth Valley and there's a long long uphill drag for quite a distance. In fact we don't come off until the A6106 which is pretty much at the top of that hill. Then it's cross country for about 15 minutes to where they live.

The car coped very well with it all and didn't miss a beat. It doesn't have cruise so I had to watch my speed on the flat where it wanted to go faster but also on the hill up the A68 where she could just about maintain speed in 5th but wouldn't accelerate unless I changed down. It's been a wee while since I've driven a N/A car on this route - we've been out here in Becky but she's not comparable to the Ibiza in terms of power or anything else really. The Mazda is directly comparable though. Similar size and engine power 95 bhp in the Ibiza and 85, I think? in the Mazda. The driving experience couldn't be more different though. The Ibiza waffles along at quite low revs but delivers lots of low down torque from it's diminutive 1.0 litre 3 cylinders - due, of course, to it being turbo charged. The Mazda, 1.3 N/A, potters along very happily at low revs but almost nothing happens at all when you open the throttle unless you change down a couple of cogs and get the revs up to around 2.500 to 3.000 RPM, then it goes, with some enthusiasm, right up to a "safe" 6,000 rpm if you've got the nerve - not my car though so didn't go beyond 5,000. The Ibiza happily climbs the hill on the A68 in 5th with a wee bit of acceleration in hand. The Mazda actually started to slow down in 5th on the very steepest bits and I had to change down to 4th to maintain progress. Nothing unexpected here, it's exactly what you'd expect. I did have a few "spirited" moments, just for fun on the very open twisty section before the petrol station on the A6106 - Not a car in sight, change down to 3rd at about 50mph entering the left hander and "played" with the throttle and steering through the left and following right. Didn't get too outrageous, but with the road surface being very wet, we had a wee "dance" together - took me back to my younger days and my rallying exploits in the Cooper S. Back on the long straight past the petrol station, still not a car in sight and letting her slow back to a more sedate pace. So nice to drive a N/A like this, the turbo spoils it all in the ibiza, lots of power in comparison I have to admit but not so usable or controllable.

So the wee Mazda, which I've still not named, is resting outside their house awaiting their return sometime tonight. I've enjoyed working on her and looking forward to the next time now that I know a lot of her "secrets". Clutch is probably going to last a while yet and I need to find out if the Mazda computer shows she's had plugs done and if so when. This noise in the steering concerns me just a little. At this time it's not a big problem I think, but it needs to be sorted before too long. Might be that the very slight bias of the steering wheel to the right is in some way connected? Last night I got my head and shoulders in the driver's side footwell and, while rocking the steering wheel, felt the two U/Js and splined section of the shaft. Top U/J seems absolutely fine. Very small amount of play in the splines accompanied by a very muted clonk, so? bottom U/J? can't get at it though because of the shield/guard protecting it. Going to ring Keith at PME - his local garage mentioned above - and have a chat with him about it. If this shaft is a common problem he may be familiar with the symptoms? anyway, can't harm to have a word with him.