Technical Fuel consumption, black exhaust bottom + unburnt fuel smell

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Technical Fuel consumption, black exhaust bottom + unburnt fuel smell

Joined
Oct 3, 2022
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Hello once again,

I almost feel bad having posted a few threads about my car with different questions but I feel like there are quite a few things wrong with it (not wrong enough for a non-suspecting person to raise an eyebrow, as the car is perfectly usable, but enough for me to be alarmed). So far I’ve posted about the starter issue and have briefly touched on the poor fuel consumption (way before reading more into it) and haven’t talked about the front suspension issues as the solution is relatively straightforward there, I just need to set the money aside which I don’t feel like doing because the car isn’t worth reselling at this point and I’m only driving it for the next few months before I move out and it gets to sit in a garage for another eternity. (Yes, it’s only been driven 8000 KM in the period of 2013-2022)

Now when I started driving this car 5 months ago, I did notice that the fuel consumption figures I’m getting are nothing spectacular. It averaged around 7.5 L/100 KM which is not horrible (especially since I mostly drive in the city) but it’s not amazing either. But now during winter my consumption has jumped in the ballpark of 10 L/100 KM. Yes, it’s cold outside (not colder than -5°C), yes, I drive short distances (~4-6 KM per trip usually). But even at that, a little over or a little under 10 L/100 KM seems too much for a 1.1 liter Panda.

Other related things I’ve noticed:
- sometimes a little after I start the car and have to rev it a bit (at an uphill start for example), I can smell petrol for a few seconds; it’s a relatively rare occurrence but it’s something like every 10th start
- the bottom of my exhaust pipe is black; there is never any black smoke coming out of it, it seems to function normally but it’s something i’ve noticed; it’s also a bit rusty, i’ve attached photos of it.

So are these issues all related and what could be causing them? Are they even issues or is that completely normal behavior? I’ve read conflicting info on MAP sensors, some saying that it’s a common issue and others saying it’s not an issue at all with petrol Pandas. Where should I start?

Thank you once again in advance!


Edit: Forgot to mention there is a little bit of vibration when idling, every few seconds. Sounds like a spark plug thing, they’ve been last changed like 11000 KM ago.
 

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Is this yet another case of “it’s cheaper to just keep pouring in a bit of coolant every now and then than to actually deal with all of the technical issues since they’re beyond economical repair”?
I wouldn't advise this. The system is pressurised, and if it does give way and you get a sudden loss of coolant, you can easily destroy the engine before the temperature gauge registers an overheat. That will put your car beyond economic repair by all but the most dedicated DIY types.

If you absolutely must drive it before getting it fixed, leave the heater on full, and stop driving immediately it is safe to do so if it starts blowing even slightly colder.
 
Running any engine with failed head gasket leads to hot gasses cutting across the gasket surface. If you get lucky the metal surfaces can be skimmed. If you don't get lucky you'll need a new cylinder head or more likely a new engine.
It's one of these 🏂leading to lots of this 💩 and you'll be doing this ⛹️‍♂️ instead of 🚙
 
Poor running could be due to the head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder. It will only get worse. Do not be tempted by any sealants added to the coolant, as these will gum up everywhere, not just the gasket leak.
I'm surprised that it is a 1.1, with aircon, poor thing, but the 1.1 has had issues with poor connections at the engine ECU. (Search for threads on this) Remove the connector carefully, and check each connection pin is firm, not loose. Opening the ECU to secure a loose one, might be within your expertise. Check connections are not burnt.
 
Hello again, everyone!

The OBD-II scanner finally arrived (the Bluetooth ELM327 one). It works well, surprisingly even connected to my iPhone without an issue (no idea how, it was labeled as Bluetooth 2.1 and supposedly iOS can only connect to 4.0+ but it still connects without an issue and reads properly).

Both Car Scanner and Torque Pro return 0 errors/diagnostic codes. I tried connecting it to MultiECUScan but there’s a weird problem: Windows asks me for the Bluetooth PIN every time MultiECUScan tries to access the OBD-II scanner, however it doesn’t give me time to enter the PIN and instead instantly counts it as a failed connection. I’ve mapped the Bluetooth device to COM8 but it simply won’t connect.

Other things I’ve noticed:
- Fuel consumption calculations are ridiculous and really inaccurate - every time I stop at a red light, it goes up to the sky which is technically true but it doesn’t get properly averaged out. Instant fuel consumption graph is fine while driving.
- Coolant temperature stays within perfectly normal range.

As far as my coolant leak goes… I don’t even know if it’s leaking at this point. It seems to fluctuate a lot between warm and cold states of the car. Last time I topped it up the car was warm and maybe that’s why it appeared very low later when it was cold. I’ll still get it properly checked at a repair shop in the coming weeks.

Thanks a lot for all the info on this forum, I’m not seeking any further help but rather just sharing my personal experience.
 

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Great news your scanner works

A short video of a hot engine with torque lite

At Idle
At around 2500 rpm


Showing pre CAT O2 sensor voltage

And Short and long term fuel trims

Would tell us if engine is actually running correctly
 
Windows asks me for the Bluetooth PIN every time MultiECUScan tries to access the OBD-II scanner, however it doesn’t give me time to enter the PIN and instead instantly counts it as a failed connection. I’ve mapped the Bluetooth device to COM8 but it simply won’t connect.
Getting MultiECUScan set up to connect reliably can be difficult.

Here's how I set it up to get it working on Win11: Open settings (F9) in MES, check serial port settings, open Device Manager and adjust 'Bits per second' & 'COM Port Number' to match (see screenshots).

Might not be the same issue you're having with it, but worth a try.
 

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Great news your scanner works

A short video of a hot engine with torque lite

At Idle
At around 2500 rpm


Showing pre CAT O2 sensor voltage

And Short and long term fuel trims

Would tell us if engine is actually running correctly
Okay, that is now done. I’ve attached two video to this reply - first one is when the car was cold (probably useless) and a second one after a drive (you can tell by the indicated coolant temperature).
 

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