Technical Fixing rusted floorboards

[smahaley]

Piecemeal or buy new pre-made floorboards?

1978 124 CS1- and I’m slowly addressing rust issues. I’ve started on the floorboards and would like some opinions as to my next best step. The video is of the passenger side:

Thanks in advance!

 

[Slotman]

Welcome back haha! I was concerned that you might have quit for a while, looks good! Nows the time to replace your hard fuel line that runs thru your interior on the driver's side next to the door sill...if you havnt already...not sure if you recall my post on how badly mine was rusted out, otherwise you might end up having to remove interior parts again

 

[smahaley]

Welcome back haha! I was concerned that you might have quit for a while, looks good! Nows the time to replace your hard fuel line that runs thru your interior on the driver's side next to the door sill...if you havnt already...not sure if you recall my post on how badly mine was rusted out, otherwise you might end up having to remove interior parts again View attachment 476704

Hi @Slotman !
Yessir - I have two spools of new line and a new flaring tool to make the ends right. Another mini-project! I should go back to old photos and see how far each run of the lines need to go. I think there’s a couple of rubber stretches in there somewhere….

 

[Slotman]

As I recall, it's all hard metal line thru the interior, it protruded about 4 inches or so out the back, and about the same thru the front firewall, then came the rubber line...I was able to get my line out in one piece so as to use it as a forming pattern, once I made a bend matching the original line, I electrical taped it tightly to the original about every 2 inches until it was done....a bit unconventional, and there was sticky adhesive to clean off after removing like 40 pieces of tape, but the end result was pretty much a duplicate of the original, and it fit the first time...I did leave a couple of inches of extra excess on each end but any more than that will make it too difficult to get thru the holes it passes thru in the front and the back...take note before you remove your old one how far it protrudes thru the firewall, and thru the rear pan to get an idea...

 

[bugsymike]

Don't know if similar size but I have used 1/4 inch Kunifer (copper and nickel) commercial brake pipe for fuel lines in the past and never had to worry about it rusting again.
I had it left over after doing the brakes on a 1947 Karrier Bantam Series 2, I used to own.

 

[Slotman]

I used the coated steel 8mm line from Bayless, although I have 3 different benders, with the steel line I found it easier doing all the bends with my hands, over my knee/knees, and the steel line seemed less prone to kinking.

 

[bugsymike]

I used the coated steel 8mm line from Bayless, although I have 3 different benders, with the steel line I found it easier doing all the bends with my hands, over my knee/knees, and the steel line seemed less prone to kinking.

Pure copper line kinks, but the good quality Kunifer type doesn't, I have used it for many years in the motor trade.

 

[smahaley]

Yes - I have the coated steel lines - and love the knee bend technique! Thanks for that tip