Technical Fiat Ducato 2.0 JTD 11 SWB engine cuts out

[moodrater]

Just a quick update.

After it getting worse and smoking quite a lot especially for the first 10 mins at least whilst driving, and once you get it up to speed it started making a sort of humming noise if i did over 80, it finally got traded in.

I looked at a few vans that sounded ok, but the doors wouldnt open or shut properly and one had been bodged with silicone(probably hoping no one would notice )

I finally found a van and told the bloke about mine and he was ok with that. so got there and there were a few bits broken, but he let me take the following off my van to compensate/fix it, (2 door handles, wheel jack and brace kit, spare wheel and stereo)

I now have a 2.8JTD 2003 van, body work is good (all paint is there too ) clean interior, and engine sounds ok (its just been on a 600 mile round trip today), didnt think much to the fuel comsumption though, works out at 23mpg on a good motorway run doing a steady 80ish at 3000 revs.

Clutch is a bit spongy and 4th and 5th grind a little if i change too quick, but i can live with that, and the ignition barrel keeps jumping back sometimes although ok once started. but i suppose they are just little jobs to sort out.

How much did you pay in the end? 23mpg I'm guessing thats the high roof one? It will do 32mpg at 60-65mph but over that kills due to the aerodynamics. If the gears are grinding I'd drain the oil and overfill as described in other threads all those bits of metal flying around won't do your bearings any good.

 

[mwooly10]

I gave him £1500 and a van that doesnt work anymore (well not that well anyway) but i probably saved a couple of hundred nicking all the bits off my old one.

I'd probably fall asleep going 60-65 Yeah it is the high roof. Needed something that can take the weight a bit better and i must say the suspension is great compared to the other one.

 

[moodrater]

I think I'd go deaf at that speed The revs are too high for good mpg at that kind of speed you'd really want a 6 speed box. A free-er flowing exhaust, engine undertray and fold in those enormous mirrors might make a difference but you're talking a couple mpg. At least if you change your mind you'll be able to ditch the new one easier :-D

 

[mwooly10]

Yeah true well i should get most of it back and as you say it'll be a lot easier to trade it or sell on.

Well ive just been out and fitted the side and back door handles, had to refit the bar in the first shutting door as it had fell out, but now they shut properly

Also the central locking didnt lock the side door (only works with the key but better than nothing) but fiddled with connecting bars and now that works too, so it all locks as it should, well as good as it'll get for 10 years old

found an old spring so i can glue the gear knob back on and that'll fix the gear stick.

so apart from a minor grind in 4th and 5th, and the ignition being a little loose and springing back sometimes, thats about it from what i can see at the moment so not too bad, a few hours cleaning it up and sorting it out for my work and it should be good to go hopefully

 

[moodrater]

the ignition being a little loose and springing back sometimes

I had a ford focus cutting out intermittantly on sharp right hand corners no error codes, no wiring problems, couldn't get it to happen myself. Eventually I realised it was the ball of keys and keyrings hanging off the main key were switching off the ignition momentarily with sheer momentum Took off 4 heavy metal keyrings, keys to mothers, sisters, brothers, inlaws, shed, caravan, bike lock, padlocks inlaws etc. etc. and all of a sudden no problem.

 

[mwooly10]

this is ok once started. think it must be worn somewhere as sometimes i go to start it and the starter motor just runs.

Well to date ive got the following sorted.

left back door locking bar had fell out, stuck that back on and used a cable tie and thats fixed.
left back door locking bolt at the top, fitted another bolt in and now that locks ok too.
right back door fitted new handle, so back doors are ok now

side door fitted new handle, and adjusted the door so it sat straight again (it had dropped) so it appears to lock and shut proper again now, there was a piece missing that worked the lock from the key, so i made one from a coat hanger and glued it in on one end so it now locks with the key, also fixed the central locking on it so it locks with the rest of the van again

Put some more air in the tyres, they only had 40 psi in them. and gave it a dose of injector cleaner.

Things that may need looking at.

heater only works on number 4.

ignition doesnt work properly may be worn somewhere. sometimes when turned to the first position it flips back off.

clutch pedal doesnt come all the way back up sometimes.

4th and 5th grind if i change gear to quickly.

theres like a tingling noise when driving (think it might be the clutch plate,well im hoping thats all it is)

sort out spare tyre. the one i nicked off my old van isnt big enough but it will get me out of trouble if needed, better than having none i suppose.

dont think theres anything else, but i cant complain to say its a cheap van.

 

[mwooly10]

Any help would be appreciated on the any of the above.

Heater only works on no4.. is that the switch knackered or could it be fuse/wire faulty?

Ignition flips back or wont start the van sometimes.. can you get that repaired as im assuming the barrel has worn?

Gears grind in 4th and 5th if changed too quickly, and theres like a tingling noise when setting off. I think its the clutch plate but it seems to change gear ok and drives fine, but the clutch pedal doesnt always come back up fully.

and lastly

The central locking only works when you put the key in the lock and doesnt work with the button although the red light comes on, on the fob. so it doesnt look like the battery is dead (or is it?)
I would of thought i could get all that redone by a decent locksmith place and get another new spare key whilst im at it?

 

[tommytopgun]

The heater switch could just be the way it's designed to operate, I found that mine (a different model unfortunately) will only come at position 4 but when the engine is at operating temperature it will work on all switch positions. I need to look into this and ask at local dealers but it could be the case that there is a temperature operated switch in the system.

 

[tommytopgun]

How ever I have had cars where the fan has come loose and lodged against the side of the housing, might be worth taking the fan out and then trying operating the switch.

 

[mwooly10]

Cheers I'll have a look into that

 

[varesecrazy]

Any help would be appreciated on the any of the above.

Heater only works on no4.. is that the switch knackered or could it be fuse/wire faulty?

Ignition flips back or wont start the van sometimes.. can you get that repaired as im assuming the barrel has worn?

Gears grind in 4th and 5th if changed too quickly, and theres like a tingling noise when setting off. I think its the clutch plate but it seems to change gear ok and drives fine, but the clutch pedal doesnt always come back up fully.

and lastly

The central locking only works when you put the key in the lock and doesnt work with the button although the red light comes on, on the fob. so it doesnt look like the battery is dead (or is it?)
I would of thought i could get all that redone by a decent locksmith place and get another new spare key whilst im at it?

Hi,
probably the resitor pack on the fan motor,

maybe lube the clutch linkages, and also try that for the lock barrell,

chaep and easy stuff 1st..!!,


Charlie

 

[mwooly10]

ok will look into that also tomorrow, got an easy day so will have a look at the van in the afternoon

Did spray a little wd40 in the lock, but didnt do anything, will take the steering housing off so i can get at it properly tomorrow

 

[mwooly10]

Well i had the ignition barrel out and gave it a spray and its still the same. So not sure what to do there.

As always something goes wrong, changed the air filter then did the fuel filter, took it off, and had to change the bottom piece for the plug in wires and whilst putting it onto the new filter it snapped I'm hoping that is just the sensor wire for water in the diesel and i don't desperately need to have it?

Went to do the oil change and the sump plug is solid and can't get it out I don't have an alankey that big tried with grips (gently this time ) and still stuck. Will go to the garage tomorrow and get them to crack it for me, then i'll change it for one that i can get a spanner on.

 

[Crossingkeeper]

Heater only works on no4.. is that the switch knackered or could it be fuse/wire faulty?

Once again this is only hearsay (there seem to be a lot of problems waiting to pounce on me) but my understanding is that in positions 1 - 3 loop the 12v supply is through a series of resistors thus slowing the motor to the required speed.

When the resistors burn out, as they do, only the direct setting on position 4 works.

The solution is to replace the resistor bank, not sure if this is part of the switch, but being a Ducato no doubt it will be a swine to access

EDIT Hadn't noticed there was a page 11 & that Varesecrazy has already suggested this; sorry for duplication!

 

[moodrater]

Well i had the ignition barrel out and gave it a spray and its still the same. So not sure what to do there.

As always something goes wrong, changed the air filter then did the fuel filter, took it off, and had to change the bottom piece for the plug in wires and whilst putting it onto the new filter it snapped I'm hoping that is just the sensor wire for water in the diesel and i don't desperately need to have it?

Went to do the oil change and the sump plug is solid and can't get it out I don't have an alankey that big tried with grips (gently this time ) and still stuck. Will go to the garage tomorrow and get them to crack it for me, then i'll change it for one that i can get a spanner on.

Draper do a set of drain plug keys for about a tenner I avoided buying them for years but its very handy.

Bottom sensor is water in filter.

Heater resistor is very accessible the resistor is cooled by the airflow people burn them out by running low speed and closing the vents resistor is then at its hottest and air flow at its lowest so they burn out or a solder spring fuse opens. I've seen the ducato ones rust too.

 

[mwooly10]

Thanks Guys

Sorted the sump plug and finished the service, did another long run today but didnt really notice any big difference, probably gain 20/30 miles to the tank but i was going slightly slower than the other day.

 

[mwooly10]

Not had time to have a look at the heater as of yet, but will have a play hopefully over the weekend, if i can find everything

Did another run at 60/70 mph and got it up to just over 27 mpg, so considering the mileage i do(only had it a week and its done over 2k already), my days of racing around may be over

Just plugged it in as i cleared the codes that were stored from my other van a few days ago, and it only comes up with one code

U1600 - key not recognised

Will that be why the central locking doesnt work with the key fob?

Also with the ignition barrel flipping back sometimes, when i turn the van off there seems to be a slight delay in the van actually turning off. would that be more of the switch being faulty rather than the ignition barrel itself?

 

[mwooly10]

Thanks guys, It was the resistor pack that was knackered, Found a scrap yard near me funnily enough called "just french" so thought i'd try there, only cost me a £5 and now the heater works again on all settings

 

[moodrater]

Just fixed an ducato ignition today, if you remove the switch you'll see the half toothed cog that turns the ignition switch. This is held in place by a central stainless pin/hub thats interference fit into the alloy ignition housing. When the key gets to either end of its travel the cog is jacked this pressure had loosened the central pin/hub. I removed the pin cleaned pin and hole with thinners and refit with red loctite and its sorted.

There is a small piece of teflon plastic above that cog that latches the ignition to prevent you from engaging the starter twice - you have to turn the ignition off to try starting again. With the pin loose this latch can prevent you from turning the key. If its dropping out of the first position the steering lock spring may have gone weak, you could try stretching it and refitting, you need to push out the roll pin in the top of the housing to remove the steering lock mechanism.

WD40 isn't the right lubricant for this and I'd say will lead to wear, I've use motorbike aerosol chain lube as it gets into every gap and when the solvent evaporates you have a decent grease.

 

[mwooly10]

Just fixed an ducato ignition today, if you remove the switch you'll see the half toothed cog that turns the ignition switch. This is held in place by a central stainless pin/hub thats interference fit into the alloy ignition housing. When the key gets to either end of its travel the cog is jacked this pressure had loosened the central pin/hub. I removed the pin cleaned pin and hole with thinners and refit with red loctite and its sorted.

There is a small piece of teflon plastic above that cog that latches the ignition to prevent you from engaging the starter twice - you have to turn the ignition off to try starting again. With the pin loose this latch can prevent you from turning the key. If its dropping out of the first position the steering lock spring may have gone weak, you could try stretching it and refitting, you need to push out the roll pin in the top of the housing to remove the steering lock mechanism.

WD40 isn't the right lubricant for this and I'd say will lead to wear, I've use motorbike aerosol chain lube as it gets into every gap and when the solvent evaporates you have a decent grease.

I think i followed most of that Well apart from the clutch the ignition is the only thing left to fix i think. Will try and find time this weekend to remove it all and try and follow your idea I have bought some better grease than wd40 now, as i know it wont grease it enough in some places

If all fails im assuming i can just renew the ignition switch with another without any reprogramming or anything? or is that just wishful thinking.